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Kitten Sniffer

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bristol
  • Occupation
    Builder
  • Boat Name
    Toaster
  • Boat Location
    Bristol

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  1. Yup. I ,mean pipe bender, not like bender. Auto corrupt is a beach on my device. Oh, have i tried to work the system using fittings rather than hiring a pipe bender, BUT... The primary circuit will have a really short run and to accommodate the required rise and fall i will need some bespoke bends (including the vent/fill tee from the flow). So, hire the kit and have as few shallow bends as necessary with no steep direction changes or obstructive fittings. Personally, not such a fan of street elbows, swept or otherwise. As they require a fitting immediately afterwards.
  2. Thanks guys, all good points. To clarify, the diagram was about showing the system it is neither to scale not showing elevation. The header is to be the highest point in total with the heat leak being the highest point in the circuit. Just need to find a 28mm like bender now...
  3. Ah! The plot thickens... Could you explain pumping over? I have an idea, but a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. Here is a sketch for the full system as planned, happy to consider revisions based on real-world fluid dynamics.
  4. Thanks Mike, good to know, but belt and braces will see me fit separate feed and vent in 22mm and have piece of mind in the system. And again, thanks Tony, opposed feed and vent on the flow and return seems the best approach. To work! ...as soon as the rest of the order arrives...
  5. Thanks Tony, I take full responsibility for my installation and will consult as widely as possible for info. My first gravity system. Separate vent and feed seems more sensible than hoping a large enough bore would allow for both. Seems wise with two pipes to have the feed on the return and vent at the top of the flow. Thats good to know Brummie, but as I'm taking an existing pumped system and only only adding enough gravity to prevent any boiling if the pump dies and to increase pump efficiency when burner is cooling. I prefer belt and braces as well so some chunky pipework is a must. What's everyone's thoughts on materials and fittings? I know that plastic is ok after 1m of the boiler (seems a little close to me as barrier pipe is rated for 85C and melts at 120...) But it's pretty ugly. I like copper -and 28 over 22mm seems a no brainer. But, all the gravity systems I've seen have been compression so I assumed it was regs- not so. I'm going with solder as I'm happy with a torch and prefer the look. Gonna make a year leak radiator towel rail from polished and lacquered 28mm
  6. David- I was planning on using 28mm to the header to avoid any restrictions. And, I intend on repurposing an old copper sink as the header... Tony- would you still have concerns with a shared vent and feed at 28mm? And if not, is the pipework to the header best on flow (highest) or return (lowest) and if separate feed an return indicated what bore will suit- as 28mm is £24 a length, I'd prefer to use only where necessary... Stegra- the pump will be on a tee and will only have chance to affect the circuit flow where it rejoins the return and the injector tee deals with flow here. Ex Brummie- the boiler is 2kw and the pump will be switched via a thermostat so won't run if the system is cold (I'll set it for 55-65C) the heat leak rad will be 10% of boiler output and if my grasp of fluid dynamics/path of least resistance is correct, then it will stay cool while the pump runs, stop boom times if the pump fails and allow the pump to switch off as the burner cools but maintain circulation. Chewbacca- the pump is a cute low power circulation thing, though I doubt any of the pumped circuit will work via gravity as the bore is 15mm, convoluted and designed only for pumping
  7. Hi guys, I'm fitting a new burner with back boiler to the boat. The previous system was wholly pumped, but I want the primary circuit to be gravity fed and then the rads and calorifier to be pumped. Do I need a feed and expansion set up or will a simple one pipe header be sufficient? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Note- I didn't draw it but was planning a cold feed to the header with a copper ball valve version of a cistern filler.
  8. So, it is a fridge and a freezer http://www.samsung.com/uk/consumer-images/product/refrigeration/2014/RB31FERNBSS-EU/RB31FERNBSS-EU-2200755-0.jpg And the image will show it's not really and outdoors sort, so ambient temp will be within household nominals. Tom- I'm probably being dense but please expand on your thermostat thoughts. One of the reasons I was thinking of a small dedicated inverter for the fridge is that I can fit a 30 amp timer switch. My large inverter has a 400 amp fuse and 70mm cable- try finding a timer switch that could handle that load that isn't seriously industrial... Not a thermostat, but would allow the fridge to work hard for an hour then rest for two or three whilst the power trickles into the batteries. I'm still chasing Samsung technical to find out the start up volt/watt/ampage that might kaibosch the idea anyhoo.. With reference my winter alternative to power generation, I'm designing and building a thermoelectric generator system that uses burner heat and makes electricity and hot water. Remember- energy cannot be destroyed, only changed or wasted. Once perfected, I'm going to sell and install the system to those of us who want off-grid with renewables but without the generator...
  9. Paul G- you must've posted as I did. You perspicaciously and succinctly get my thinking. The fridge spends a lot of time not actively doing too much, it is this no-load load of a large inverter I'm trying to subtract from the total daily energy requirement. Hopefully new winter renewables will make the point irrelevant...
  10. Thank you guys, thoughts for further investigation- Haven't been using the power save function on inverter as it can scare the fridge, I shall try further investigations. Time to poke the manufacturer for peak start up current to ensure compliance if dedicated inverter route is engaged. Current fridge may be 240v but is A+++ and uses only 160w, DC fridges are ugly, inefficient and extremely expensive- if anyone can prove me wrong, please do. I'm under no illusions that a wee power trim will solve the problems, I'm in the process of installing a supplementary, winter specific alternative energy DC charging option to augment the solar (we have 1kw and can't fit more until they make PV that is more efficient per Sq M) anything to avoid the drone and cost of a generator and my tractive engine should be reserved for that reason, my question is more to find the technical faults in my plans- I'm not an electrical engineer and an admission of ignorance can often bear the fruits of knowledge.
  11. Hullo all, please play nice as I have often struggled to negotiate the bible-sized, yet unwritten rule book on web fora. I'm in the mid to late late stages of a fit-out and am currently 100% solar powered. We have 1Kw and are generally as low drain as possible. Unfortunately, we love some of the modern toys and are proud owners of mains voltage fridge freezer and washing machine, bought with the belligerent intent to power somehow... We are, of course, fully off-grid. 8 months of the year we are fine, we turn on 2.5k inverter in the morn and off at night. But, as they say- Winters coming... Last year, off went the fridge and we scraped by- please no suggestions about engines or generators, I'm looking at some very interesting alternative renewables but want to cut down the load through the day. Crux point- Am going to buy a 300w sine-wave inverter to dedicate to the fridge and fit an appropriately sized timer switch so the batteries get more uninterrupted charging time and all stays cool. Am I correct in thinking, given a nominal efficiency of 95% that under the same load the small inverter will draw less power than the big? Thoughts, suggestions and electronic insights please.
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