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Happydays66

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Everything posted by Happydays66

  1. Hi I did what IDS suggested and it's worked a treat!! It's the best the water system has been. As the instructions just gave dimensions in MM rather than litres I estimated the accumulator held a litre and armed with my half litre glass I switch the pump on, turned it off and open the tap. Nothing came out. I started letting air out of the accumulator and repeated the steps until I got my half litre glass full. No more back flow and a roasting hot shower. Thanks for everyone's help.
  2. Thanks for your feedback. I was looking for the starting pressure or cut in pressure in the pump instructions but couldn't find any info so set the accumulator to 30psi. I will try out all your suggestions when I'm back on the boat on Sunday and let you know what happens.
  3. Hi I have replaced a leaky shurflo 30psi pump with a new shurflo 30psi pump. Whilst I don't expect the same performance as mains flow the pulsing of the water is that prominent my water heater pulses along with it. I have tried adjusting the pump but it makes no difference. I fitted a water expansion tank and set the pressure in relation to the pump and it makes no difference. The water out of the hot tap heats enough through the taps but had shower hot tap is always cold. This wasn't a problem with the old pump. Any ideas as to what it could be please?
  4. Sounds like I need a bank of batteries. Where can I find information that instructs me how to connect them together once I check How much room I have to house them.
  5. Thanks everyone. It looks like Trojans will be the best for me then as I will be using the boat for occasional weekends and holidays so they are not going to be on full charge all the time. What would you say would be the best strength f battery then. It will need to run the 12v fridge, 12v tv, lights, and more importantly (for my 13 year old son) his xbox on an inverter. I have a feeling that xbox is going to cause severe battery drainage!
  6. What batteries are better than the Trojans? I'm after quality with this purchase and not looking to save money. I've only got one leisure battery wired up so need it to be a good one. I also want to buy a good reliable engine battery. Thanks
  7. Hi My newly purchased second hand narrowboat only has a 12v supply with a domestic battery in poor condition and engine battery in weak condition according to the recent boat survey. Apparently the batteries were connected to a Sealey BT02 battery analyser to obtain those findings. So what do you think this all means? Do they simply need recharging as I have just bought the boat and it's been lying in the boatyard unused for many weeks? If I would be better off buying a new set of batts what would be the best ones to buy?
  8. Hi Thanks for your advice. Not doing too bad so far I think, with your help on this forum site. I got a further reduction on the boat so got it down from £15000 to £9500. With repaint and repairs which are now all booked in, the boat will maintain its value of the purchase price plus the repairs and repaint costs (confirmed by surveyor). Not that I will be selling the boat as I have been waiting 20 odd years to be able to buy and run one! Looking forward to getting stuck in on smaller maintenance jobs as I'm not the type of person to just chuck money at a problem and like to roll my sleeves up and get stuck in! I just need to get the bulk of work carried out by professionals as there are too many jobs to be done initially that I don't have time to do and they would start to take the pleasure out of buying the boat. Want to get it to the point I can take it out for a cruise at least! Looking forward to it. Thanks again.
  9. Hi Thanks for the tips. Booked in for a paint job in April at £4800 where I bought the boat and am having repairs carried out. It seemed the most practical solution after a lot of thought. The boat is a 35 foot rust bucket needing a full professional paint job so doing it myself was not an option as will need 4 to 5 weeks of constant de rust and paint work. Bought the boat because it has a new complete professional fit out inside apart from bathroom which needs me to re grout it and replace shower parts.
  10. I hadn't thought of Runcorn. Thanks for the suggestion. Thanks everyone for your replies. The boat seller agreed to a further reduction on the boat so that I could fund the repairs needed without paying more than the boat would be worth on completion of the repairs. I've bought the boat! So now I can start enjoying it as the problems and costs were taking the fun out of it. I just need to be careful now and not get carried away paying for things I could do myself!
  11. Hi I recently posted topics on compression testing and boat painting. Well, great news! I managed to get a further reduction on the boat price and have bought the boat!! I can now use the savings to carry out repairs. There is a lot to repair so I'm being careful with my spend. What is your view on these quotes I have received for the initial round of repairs please? Replace Lister SR2 exhaust system and raise outlet at least 10 inches above waterline £400 Secure external solenoid and replace undersized cable from battery to the domestic alternator (min size 25mm) £100 Install auto/manual bilge pump ( ie auto bilge pump with switch) £275 The surveyor has advised the engine and stern gland bilges are not separated, and so a small fixed metallic sump will have to be fitted below stern seal for the pump to be housed in. The boatyard have said the best thing they can do with the stern tube drip tray is to secure a steel biscuit tin, or sweet tin under the stern tube, then fit the pump in to that, the best way would be to weld a plate at the back but it is very difficult to do as there is no room to clean the steel and get a good weld. Are there any better containers I can get than a biscuit tin which will look a bit of a bodge. What do you think of the boatyards response regarding not being able to weld a plate?
  12. My surveyor won't give me a new BSC without this repair. It was top of his list as was capping off an unused outlet 10 inches above the waterline. Maybe sometimes the boater is reliant on the surveyors views and interpretations of the BSS.
  13. Third posting from me! Have posted re compression test and mooring. Once I have corrected surveyors priority recommendations I will be getting the boat repainted. I want it professionally painted which means taking it back to the metal, treating rust, and several layers of undercoat and top coat. Can anybody recommend good paint companies in Cheshire region please? So far quotes have been disappointing in that companies are saying to make it worth their while they are going to have to charge me for a 40 foot boat or 45 foot boat. This is ironic as I bought a smaller boat to keep maintenance costs low! Again, I am not looking for cheap deals as I just want to pay a fair price for a good job. Thanks
  14. Yes the boat has a 2 year bsc left to run. Re the question about replating. The boat has not been replated. Plate thickness was between 4 and 6mm. The lower readings were taken at the outer edge of the base plate at the turn of the aft swim. The boat was blacked in July this year and surveyor has recommended I attach shoe plates at the turn of the aft swim on both port and starboard sides to minimise any wear in these areas (6ft by 10inches) at the next blacking in 2 years.
  15. Thanks for the tips. Answers to questions below. The narrowboat was built in 1980, is 35foot, and I am looking for leisure moorings. I will be getting the exhaust raised as a priority and that will also qualify me a new bsc as part of the full survey package for an additional £35 when the work is done. Hopefully I can get insurance so I can move the boat to get it done. The boatyard selling the boat is a bit pricey in general for repairs but I will get a quote from them too.
  16. Hi I recently asked advice on compression testing and received some great advice which helped me have a good discussion with the boatyard and ask the right questions. I have now decided to purchase the boat and was hoping you would be able to give me some pointers. I am looking to moor the boat as near to the wirral merseyside as possible. Does anybody know of safe mooring at reasonable prices? I am thinking of mooring at a marina initially until I can get into a boat club (if possible) as I have heard mooring can be cheaper. Is there a good insurance company I can use that again has reasonable costs and includes canal side recovery. Is there a good company that offers good recovery packages that I could take up separate to insurance. I realise there is a fixed licence fee that I have to pay and my boat has 2 years bsc to run and has had a full survey. Will the insurance company want to see the survey report which has reported good hull but needs exhaust outlet raising 7 inches as 3 inches above waterline at the moment (I expect due to recent fit out). Could that prevent me getting insurance until remedied? Thanks in advance for any tips.
  17. Thanks for your feedback. It is a lister 2 cylinder engine. The surveyor reported that the boat was in good condition for its age and was surprised by the good fit out inside. He sId I had offers the right price for what the boat was worth. He said the engine oil had been well over filled, was dark brown and very thin. He said there was a little amount of white and black exhaust under load but otherwise it performed okay. He said Initially the engine seemed a bit slow but that lister engines generally are. On the basis of those finding he advised me to get an oil change followed by a compression test. I have had the test done now and The test revelled piston 1 at 300 psi and piston 2 at 295 psi. No leaks from fuel pipes or injectors.
  18. I have been recommended by a surveyor following a pre purchase survey to get an oil change then a compression test. Boatyard have quoted £250 for this. Is that a fair price or a rip off?
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