Jon12345

Hi, I would not use the plate heat exchanger on the engine and buy a themal store with an indirect coil so you could attach the engine direct. Hopefully if the engine is close enough to the store the engine water pump should take care of it. In my opinion you don't need the vent pipe on the heat sink rad or on the gravity hot water flow. But to be safe and because it's easy would put a vent pipe there ( See Pic ) I think it's workable but the one problem I can see is keeping the store at an adequate temperature for hot water as required. I have fitted only a few Thermal stores in houses and they have all had a controllable source of heat like an oil/gas boiler incorporated. Which can be timed say before you get up in the morning to heat the store for hot water and the solid fuel/wood burner is a bit of a evening focal point and not a main source of heat.

I think they are " Osma Gold " fittings. I can't remember if they are removable or not. But If my memory is any good there will be 4 small holes in the blue ring. If these are pushed, pulled or twisted to remove with a tool or not, I'm not sure. Ebay would probably be your best bet for new old stock fittings etc. Good luck.

Abel's Ark has a new owner. Good old Dan Brown:

These people run Air con on a Catamaran with an inverter and a Microair easystart. American company and they are $300 but they have done a video which you might find intresting. https://www.microair.net/products/easystart-364-3-ton-single-phase-soft-starter-for-air-conditioners?variant=29181121483 https://www.gonewiththewynns.com/air-conditioning-sailboat

Yes that looks like an isolation valve can be used to fill the system. The top square with the line is the on/off control. It's now shut. Turning it 90 degrees should open it. The line indicates its position. The cap on the side is where you attach a hose. You are going to need a fitting so the hose can attach it looks like it's 3/4" so this should do it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Expert-4-Inch-Garden-Connector/dp/B0001KA0FE Once you have the hose sorted. With the valve turned of as it is now remove the cap on the side. Attach the hose to a mains pressure water supply tap and the other end to the valve where you have removed the tap. Turn the cold water on at the mains tap. Open the valve turning the square piece with the line 90 degrees, when the pressure gauge reads 1 bar turn the valve back to where it is now. Turn hose off at mains and remove the hose both ends. Replace the cap and run the system for an hour or so. You may need to bleed some radiators. When the system is cold check the pressure if it is below 1 bar you need to top up the water again to 1 bar. At some point in the future it would probably be best to fit a proper filling loop with a check valve etc. They are only about £10 maybe a job for the summer. Good luck.

Pic 7 looks like the fill point. The cap on the end will remove to attach the hose. Before removing though it looks like you may have to turn the valve off on the top to stop water coming out. A normal fill valve will shut this off automatically It doesn't look like a standard fill valve though so a close up pic would help. Pic 2 Is an expansion vessel/tank Pic 3 Auto air vent Pic 4 Temp and pressure gauge Pic 5 Pressure relief valve. I would run a pipe from this to a safer point. If this ever activates hot water will come out. Also if the black knob is turned by someone accidentally they might get a shock. Pic 6 Is a lockshield Radiator valve. used for adjusting the flow of water through the radiator. Don't touch these can leak if messed with.

If the return pipe from the radiator is hot and the bottom of the rad is cold it's a good chance it's sludge in the radiator.

Karcher have an outlet store for refurbished stuff. I bought a steam cleaner off them and its been fine. https://www.karcheroutlet.co.uk/products/product.asp?id=5100 https://www.karcheroutlet.co.uk/products/product.asp?id=5420

It's a check valve which allows water to only flow one way. Like a non return valve but Check Valves operate in a different way but perform the same job.

Have a read of this: https://www.victronenergy.com/generatortest Click on: Generator Test Report

Not in gas though.

Time served City and Guilds/NVQ apprenticeship or a 1 week course?

Will you have shore power available if so how about a battery charger or combined inverter/charger (multiplus ) ? Amount of solar will depend on your energy use and budget. People with more knowledge than me will be along soon to help you with that I'm sure. That solar kit looks expensive too me an equivalent setup from bimble is a lot cheaper http://www.bimblesolar.com/offgrid/12v/175w-dualbatt-pwm-kit or a bigger panel with a mppt controller http://www.bimblesolar.com/offgrid/12v/260W-kit-mppt-mounting?sort=p.price&order=ASC&limit=75 But work out what you need first as you may wish to add panels later etc.

Basically the cooker uses the flame to complete an electrical circuit to sense when the gas is lit and stop sparking ( Flame rectification ) Leisure where on the right track as an electrode and lead normally fixes this cheaply. You are now onto the possibility of it being the igniter control box which is probably expensive. An earth fault on the appliance or wiring of the boat. The cooker may not be playing nice with the Inverter assuming the cooker is 240vac. Maybe check the plug or spur is wired correctly for starters.

Try these people: http://www.englishwoodlandstimber.co.uk/stocklist-coming-soon/ http://www.englishwoodlandstimber.co.uk/timber-services/profiles-moulding-timber/ You can buy packs of wood and they will run it off to your requirements. Tongue and groove, beading, trim, door frames etc. Great as it all matches and the pack wood price can work out cheaper and with the machining it's very competitive. Not used them myself but they have been recommended to me buy a few chippies.

They use the 240v for the fan so you are able to have a 4/5" round flue. You can get balanced flued water heaters that have no fan and require no electric to run but they have big square through the wall flues and fitting them on a boat would be difficult and impractical. The Bss might also be a problem. Chaffoteaux & maury and main used to make these but I'm not sure if they still do. Good luck

Make sure that the time is set on the clock and it is set to manual. http://downloads.beko.co.uk/bekoupload/manuals/GRB6GV.pdf

These the ones?? http://www.buypvdirect.co.uk/PV_Panels/Panasonic%20PAN-240%20HIT http://www.buypvdirect.co.uk/PV_Panels?product_id=273 They look nice and this guy has fitted them https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0MMPakvfZ0&t=339s

How about buying some hinges and getting the glass cut to size or from a wooden template if it's an odd size. https://www.kerolhardware.co.uk/wall-mounted-shower-door-hinges.html

You can use a HepVO waste Valve if you want to keep a trap and save space. Just remember to buy the elbow for a horizontal installation.

How about using a thermal store? Would have the advantages of bringing all the heat sources together, takes car of the vent,feed and expansion of the solid fuel, diesel heater and rad circuit. Another benefit would be that you could do away with the heat dump and pump for the solid fuel.

But I swear it was in self defence.