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CapitalD

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Leighton Buzzard
  • Boat Name
    Capital

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  1. I just discovered that Jabsco sell a service kit (new membrane) for this - a bit more than half the cost of a new unit. Problem nearly solved. The SeaFlo unit (less than the cost of the service kit) say that its for drinking water.
  2. The accumulator in our boat didn't work after de-winterisation. Basically the pump runs whenever a tap is open. The accumulator itself is reading 0 psi from the Schrader valve and, on the bench, pumping air in the valve results in a draft coming out of the bottom. So, am I right in thinking that an accumulator should contain a bladder and mine is ruptured? Therefore new accumulator time. The existing tank is Xylem (CM288) and sells for around £60. SeaFlo are offering the same volume (8 l) for £30. Thoughts about build quality vs price? Mine is not easy to get to.
  3. Blu-Ray is a higher definition video recording format and not worth it without a big screen, so effectively irrelevant on a boat. But if you have a video library that you want to take when cruising, you need a platform that will play it. And yes, we still have cassette tapes and CDs because not everything is on-line. Even when you can get a sufficiently strong signal.
  4. OK so how should I be judging inverter efficiency?
  5. It offends me to be that inefficient in terms of battery power. When we got the boat she was fitted with an 1800W Stirling square-wave inverter. It works most things, but not so smoothly.
  6. Does anyone know of a 12V blu-ray player? We used a Pioneer multimedia setup designed for cars that would play DVDs, but the laser reader has failed and the repair costs are prohibitive. We have blu-ray at home so we want to be able to take the discs, rather than looking for high resolution on the boat monitor screen. We haven't found anything after a couple of days hunting on the web.
  7. Agreed. In practice I moved the positive (ign.sw.) side of the alternator warning lights as the input to the diode block and put jumpers back to the warning lamps. I was right to be suspicious of the space for extra piggy-back connectors. Just getting the jumpers in was tricky and they were going into the space where another connector had come out! Done now and waiting for new battery cable to re-connect the alternators to the split-charge diode blocks. Unfortunately my local chandlers was our of stock. Thank goodness for the internet.
  8. The diode block was supplied by Adverc as part of the package. I know about the F connection modification having fitted one of these before. Straightforward on both the alternators on our engine. Yes, the piggy-back connectors may be the easiest route if there is the physical space. I'm off to look now.
  9. Yes we do. The combination is new to us and designed by Adverc. We have been using the as-installed independent system until now, but the domestic battery bank has been seriously under-performing. The Adverc system was installed on the boat when we bought her, but without any wiring and, as it turned out, was also defective. We fitted an Adverc on our last boat and have been convinced of its merits ever since.
  10. Dear all, thanks for the very swift replies. I've attached the Adverc diagram below. I have the block diagrams from the maintenance manual, thanks. I was trying to work out where the various wires went when they disappeared into the loom, so I was looking for a layout schematic rather than the block diagram supplied. The daisy chain I mentioned referred to the while wires joining the various warning lights (the connection to the ignition switch) which end up in the "white sealed joint" top left of the control panel. I was looking for the best entry point to insert the diode block. These wires have very little free play, so difficult to cut and add extra crimp connectors. AdvercWiring.pdf Sorry. I didn't mean to make the wiring diagram accessible only by download ...
  11. Does anyone have access to a wiring diagram for these engines? I am fitting an Adverc to ours and I need access to the wiring loom behind the control panel, but its very tightly bundled and (of course) colour-coded. Unfortunately the manual only tells me a few of the wire colours. Specifically I want to identify the wires from the ignition switch to the alternator warning lights which are white and run together in a daisy-chain. For the Adverc I need to run them through a diode block.
  12. Thanks guys. One (of 4) running warm to touch, now disconnected. They were due to be changed this year when cruising season is over ...
  13. We have Fire Angel CO alarms and one has just started to go off. We are on our mooring and getting power from our bollard. We haven't run the engine for a few weeks and have not yet lit our stove this autumn. We're cooking (by gas) on the boat and on Sunday we made breakfast and went out for the day (by car). When we cam back on Monday morning the alarm was going reading 38ppm over our bed. Since then the recorded level has been going up and down from the usual 0 to as much as 41 ppm. There is no gas coming into the boat unless the cooker is on (bubble tester). There is a smell similar to rotten eggs (hydrogen sulphide) strongest near the stern bed area. The forward (kitchen/living space) monitor is reading 0 to 13 ppm. I can't locate the source of the smell which is obvious but not powerful. Does anyone have any idea where to look next? Are the monitors sensitive to anything other then CO?
  14. That may be true for a while, but my experience is that any scratch (or other imperfection) that allows water to get onto the base metal will cause corrosion and separation of the two metals. Basically it seems that the contact layer is a vulnerable area prone to breakdown.
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