nbbranwell

Thanks again Tony

Thanks Tony! Now I just have to find the gauge!

Hi all, What is this part, and should I carry a spare?

I am emailed one of the ones I mentioned already, I will report back with what they say. I expect it will be: read the spec, no guarantees, but we have lots of satisfied customers. 😀

Yeah! 😂 I was think of something like: Acothane DW - https://www.acothaneuk.com/ or Tankguard DW - https://www.jotun.com/gb-en/industries/products/Tankguard-DW

When considering water tank painting, I always assumed that two pack would be better in the long run. But it would cost more and the tank would have to be taken back to bare metal if bitumen had previously been used. But does anyone have any views or knowledge of two pack type paints being too brittle for an integral water tank? Will a firm collision be too likely to crack the paint and allow the ingress of water to form rust? Especially compared to bitumen based paints. Just for the record, I don't plan to have many collisions! 😂 I just wondered if given good access, bitumen was actually better?

Thanks for the replies. Should be a fun job this weekend! 😃

Hi all, I need to get a new joint for my STW3 thermostat housing. Part number 202-91080. Its the gasket or seal that goes between these two parts of the housing: I am fairly sure I can make one from Neoprene, cork or paper, but the old material has decayed to the point that I cannot even identify what it was made of! Anyone know? Cheers! Chris,

Hi all, We are looking to get our 60' boat painted. We are based on the Trent & Mersey, but are willing to travel a bit for the right job. Anyone have any recommendations? Really want the job done properly, ideally with some kind or guarantee. Have heard a few horror stories so want to be careful! Also, whats is the general view about painting in a wet dock vs a dry? Thanks in advance

Many thanks for the advice. The bricks are indeed vermiculite. At £25 quid I didn't think they were that cheap They appear to be good quality (precisely cut edges, with no sign of hand tools). A measurement revealed they were (ignoring the cut off corner) 10inch x 9.75inch. Regards the two pieces that support the coal retainer, I thought they were part of the casting! Will get them off tonight. I will give it another try. Many thanks guys

Hi all, I am fitting a second hand squirrel "clean heat" which came with no bricks. I have ordered some from Ebay and am having trouble getting them in. There is a back boiler, so no baffle plate (otherwise I think it would be easy to take out the baffle plate, put them in, and then replace the baffle plate.) Also, because of the back boiler I believe it only requires side bricks, no back brick. It seems that whatever orientation I try, they do not go in! Regardless of which edge I offer in first, one or more of the other edges do not even get close to where it needs to be. I am wondering if there is a special technique, or I have the wrong bricks. I am very much hoping the solution does not involve removing the top plate. Any advice would be appreciated. Chris.

Hi all, I am have picked up a Kabola E7 from ebay, and I am attempting to fit it to a 60' narrowboat. I am still at the planning stage, and I am wondering about the flue requirements. I understand this is critical to getting these heaters working correctly. The manual states that the minimum flue length is 2.5m. If I was to fit the boiler on the baseplate, that would put the top of the flue over 4 feet above the roof. (Also being that low down is going to make it awkward to access.) I have heard talk of these being fitted to boats, so how is the flue normally accommodated? Will a shorter than recommended flue be dangerous at all? Also, I am guessing the answer to this will be "No!" but, the flue looks likely to be exiting the engine room right next to the Lister exhaust. Is there any way I can share the flue and exhaust? Any advice will be welcome . Regards, Chris.