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Sorry again going to be harsh but, do not buy a boat if you think it an affordable option be very careful. The only reason to buy a boat is because you want to live the life of a boater Young child, part time job tends to mean you will need a permanent mooring, it is very difficult to keep within the guidelines of moving enough distance for a CCing (Continuous Cruising) declaration, moorings cost and residential moorings are like hens teeth. the cost (thousands) will vary depending on mooring and where it is in the country. You will also need insurance. So mooring fee, insurance, licence for a start, all variable depending on boat length mooring location. Then there is the getting water, emptying the loo,

Sail-aways come in a different levels of completion and I can understand why the boat builder would not want to work on one. I am sure the builder, like most builders, has a favourite hull that he likes to work on and it will be a bare hull (nothing fitted whatsoever) The fit-out cost will vary depending on the level of fit-out and the amount of equipment that is required, whether live-aboard or just leisure use. 60 foot live aboard will cost in the region of £2,000 per foot in total, (£120,000) that is a guide and not set in concrete, it all depends on level of trim etc. It will take as long as it takes, there will always be delays, think 3 months as a minimum, of course depending on the boat builders work load it may take even more than that to even get started on the build. The wait time for my builder was two years before the build could start. The work will be done by the builder you choose, to a standard layout or to your design, to the level you want.

Witchword First things first, welcome to the forum. Now this may come across as a little harsh so apologies if you think this is so but sometimes the 'rosie' tint needs to be removed. Look at all boats that your budget will buy, then choose the one that chooses you, then get it fully surveyed and have a contingency fund available for the unexpected because you can expect it to happen. All boats depreciate but similar to cars as they get older the depreciation rate reduces, until they just have scrap value. An excellent old boat with good pedigree can be a better buy. As we all do. Then do not buy a boat, all boats need constant care and maintenance sometimes a lot. Definition of BOAT: Bring Out Another Thousand

Surely you mean hourly. Sorry, in my opinion, a recipe for disaster. But as with all these new ideas if it is not tried we will not know if it works and I suppose the wiki can always be deleted.

Notice Update: 9th February 16 Navigation: Open, Towpath: Open Leicester Line (Grand Union Canal) Starts At: Bridge 10 Ends At: Crick Tunnel North Portal Update on 09/02/2016:Our contractors have now been to site and the tree has been cleared

Being as size matters, behave boys, mine are 50mm2 on a 24v system.

All this mention of moving the stove to the centre of the boat does not mention the actual location and the way the boat is fitted out. I know of one boat where the stove is fitted in the 'centre' (side to side, rear of saloon) of the boat but because it sits with its back to a low level bulkhead, heat does not travel to the back of the boat. I have a 60' boat, a Morsø Squirrel 1430, fitted in the front left corner and like a few others the temperature gradient from front to back of the boat is perfect. All doors are left open except the one to the engine room at the back (modern trad). going past that door requires thermals.

Leicester Line (Grand Union Canal) Starts At: Bridge 10 Ends At: Crick Tunnel North Portal Monday 8 February 2016 13:45 until further notice Type: Navigation Closure Reason: Vegetation Original message:Please be advised that a tree has fallen blocking navigation and exit from Crick Tunnel, South Portal

Boat licence: £1200 per annum Boat licence per month: £100 Boat licence per half month: £50 Cost to seller £50, cost to buyer £50 CRT receive £100, should just about cover admin costs The above figures are just for illustration and bear no resemblance to actual costs.

The survey may only take two hours but the getting the boat out of the water and back in again is also time consuming.

Not going to add anything that has not already been said, just to pick up on this. To see 70 amps out of a 70 amp alternator is almost impossible, to see that your battery would need to able to hold its stated capacity, be 'flat' and your alternator to be spinning at over 5,000 rpm, probably nearer 8,000 rpm. You may not see it then. All the above depends on many variations but as a rough guide, the maximum you will see is about half the rated output, with the alternator spinning at over 3,000 rpm. Assuming that you have a three to one ratio on your engine, alternator pulleys then the engine needs to be spinning at a minimum of 1,000rpm ps. Batteries do the 'controlling' not the alternator, you cannot put in more amps than the battery will take.

I'm mad But in my favour, I only do it when the generator (7Kw) is running.

Well that throws that possible problem out the window.

Loafer No teaching of how to suck eggs. Assuming you have the Uni-t clamp meter, you are pressing the 'rel' (middle button) so that the display goes to zero, meter switched ON but not placed round cable, before taking reading.

Talk to these people: http://www.crowthermarine.co.uk/ Most helpful and even advised me that my prop was the correct one for my boat, so no sale for them.

I should hope so after all the practice he has had. Nice work Dave and good that you can admit that 'we' do not always get things correct.

A little punctuation may help, with explanation 'Great 30' rolling contract, data only, sim deal Great 30: name by which the offer goes by Rolling contract: a contract for the supply of service for one month (usually) that is paid for by direct debit on a monthly basis, either party can cancel with one months notice. Check conditions Data only: as it says can only be used for data cannot be used in a 'phone Sim: no equipment (dongle/wi-fi etc.) supplied, only sim, small card, with chip on board, of various size to use in existing equipment Edit: syntax

Indeed it is, the argument put forward is, that as you have not required credit for some time, they do not have any knowledge of your ability to (re)pay.

Well yes and no but not necessarily in that order. I only ever charged to 95% SOC and very rarely went to 100%. It was only in the last eighteen months that with solar that they got to 100%SOC. So it was not the Smartgauge, it was me that was at fault. I will now be using 'tail current' as a guide because in the last six years I have learnt a lot. The Smartgauge is still useful for the other crew member, for whom it was specifically designed.

New batteries fitted, they were reading 12.1v on arrival. Smartgauge was not factory reset but it informed that a disconnection had taken place and the SOC was reset to 75% (automatically). BMV set to new batteries capacity. I knew they (batteries) were not capable of that Batteries have now been in one week, difficult to use enough power to get them down below 75% SOC Managed this by running the boat for 24Hrs on the batteries, ( never managed that before) laptops, fridge, freezer, boiling kettle and more. Smartgauge and BMV did not agree at any time until today. Hoorah!!! Well actually they still disagree but only by 1.9% (higher reading on the BMV) What does this suggest... the new batteries were not capable of their maximum capacity (still not) and the Smartgauge has 'learnt' Am I pleased with new batteries, so far so good. Am I pleased with the new BMV, so far so good and it is telling me a lot more about the batteries and my charging or lack of. Am I pleased with the Smartgauge always have been, it does what it says in the manual. It is /was my fault that the last set only lasted 3½ years, lack of charging. For those that do not know, This is a live aboard CCIng with an 'all electric boat', with full size fridge and full size freezer running 24 hrs. (no not continuously, they are thermostatically controlled, just for the pedants ) Reason for this post, just to give an insight for the non-technical of us how it is in the real world.

Martin it is going into a can (there is a limit on the size) so no declaration is required, it is only if it goes directly into a boat (tank) is it necessary to declare. If anyone is asking for a declaration, with it going into a can, is wrong.

No but if you use it for propulsion of your boat then it is up to you to declare it to HMRC and pay the extra.

Only until this weekend coming, as told to me in an EE shop. If you are an existing customer it is possible the get another 10% off. Move quick if thinking of going for it

Neil. welcome As per the others had twenty minutes 'tuition' on a straight bit of canal with no locks by the hire company. For a start: 60 page PDF file from C&RT (Canal & River Trust) https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/media/original/141.pdf I believe a hard copy can be obtained from C&RT Go for a walk along the nearest canal, assuming it is not derelict, find some locks, do some 'gongoozling' and talk to boaters. Now the proviso on what you are proposing, paying etc. there may be insurance problems.