NB Alnwick

Suitable nuts on eBay

To me it looks very familiar and as I have yet to navigate north of Fradley Junction this would suggest that it is more local to the Midlands

I think it is quite likely to be a BS brass thread which has a 55 degree Whitworth thread form. There is also a standard British cycle thread (1/2" BSC - 1/2 inch by 26tpi) but cycle threads use a 60 degree thread form. A long established cycle shop may have a suitable nut in their parts bin. This was the size that was used in days gone by for cycle front lamp brackets. Specialist on-line suppliers that I have used include: D. Middleton and Son Apologies I realise that much of what I have written is a duplication of what BEngo wrote - should have read through the whole topic!. For what its worth, I have found that one of the best suppliers of proper British standard fasteners is this firm in the USA - they supplied the studs for our K3: British Tools and Fasteners

I've just watched The Yangtze Incident - excellent film! Clearly the Sun is over the yardarm . . .

This I can understand if the object of the exercise is to preserve a historical asset such as a old working boat but if building a new boat one might look at ways of provided less cramped accommodation. Admitted, some of us give up quite a lot of accommodation in order to display our motive power but then some of us are rather eccentric . . .

I suppose the obvious question is why? It is a nice design for a tug but that stern deck does not really provide a safe or comfortable area for carrying passengers . . .

This one looks interesting - is it genuine? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284274451395

That makes sense to me!

That is very unfair - one of my biggest regrets was selling my 2CVs . . .

I have stripped it down and checked it out - it is very well made with 3/8 UNC solid brass studs, nuts and washers, stainless springs and balls, brass shaft, solid copper terminals, and solid copper switch plate. However it does look like something out of a 1950s Tri-ang electric train set.

Last time we came up a flight of wide locks we strapped two boats together side by side and left one crew member aboard to control both boats using just one engine - it worked for us . . .

I am sure that a VSR set-up will prove better than my frequently failing Lucas relays. However the battery switch was offered as a no-cost solution and this, combined with the fact that it is clearly old-tech, is part of the attraction. It reminds me of a conversation I had at Claydon Locks on Friday: When asked why I was pulling my boat out of the lock with the centre-line, I answered "Its a real nuisance but you see I can't find the remote control!" For me, part of the attraction of boating is that it is an old fashioned physical activity requiring a high degree of human skill and effort.

When we repainted Alnwick more than fifteen years ago we were on a waiting list for a mooring at Fenny Compton so we had that painted on the boat by our signwriter - we never did get to the top of that waiting list and when we were offered a mooring in Cropredy in 2007 we grabbed it with both hands! We never changed it because 'Fenny Compton' on the cabin sides looks nice. When we get our repaint next year we may have to think again!

After discussing my plans for dispensing with the Lucas split charge relay in favour of a simple battery switch with one of my boating neighbours, he kindly donated the switch illustrated in the image below. Can anyone identify the make/brand please? The writing on the back includes: 6-32 VOLTS DC 280 AMPS CONTINUOUS 380 AMPS INTERMITTENT When started from cold this morning my 24v starter motor recorded 350 Amps briefly but was mostly in the region of 250 Amps for about 20 seconds. I am therefore thinking that this switch will do the job.

I have attended enough of Tony's lectures to know that he talks sense. I can now see that I may have to look at some re-wiring. This may also include fitting a switch that can combine battery output like the one illustrated below. This would make life easier if/when the starter batteries fail. I have not yet calculated what the starter motor draws during cranking - the switch illustrated is good for 1200A. Blue Sea Systems e-Series Selector Battery Switch

Obviously, when our boat was fitted-out in the 1990s the arrangement with the Lucas 33RA relay was considered appropriate. The present arrangement gives charge preference from the Lucas/CAV AC5R alternator (24v, 55A) to the starter batteries and only charges the domestic bank when the relay operates. When connected to the mains or our portable generator, the Sterling 20A charger provides what is described as an "intelligent charge" to both sets of batteries. For my purposes, a simple manual switch would suffice in place of the Lucas relay. The starter batteries would need be recharged as soon as the engine has started but once up to full charge the charge can be switched to the domestic bank where there is likely to be a continuous drain. I still have two spare Lucas relays but my plan is to have a good look at the requirements and change the wiring round to provide the best solution. I have purchased a VSR rated at 100A but at this stage, I am not sure if it will provide the ideal solution.