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Bewildered

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Everything posted by Bewildered

  1. No we keep bleeding because it wont bleedin' work. Only getting water out. Except on the valve on the hot out behind the stove which we are getting steam due to lack of circulation. After Nickomans post I sent a text to my mate pointing out that as the pump will not run with air in it; I wondered as I cannot see a way to prime the pump, if we disconnected one of the rads and fitted his chemical pump in place then pumped in both directions to prime the circulation pump we could then switch it on and see if it pumps back into the chemical pump, which has a large clear plastic bowl on it. He thinks it is doable; is this worth trying? My entire problem could be down to priming the pump.
  2. All radiator valves are fully open. The pump is less than 6 inches above floor level The system has been bled at all points over and over agian
  3. Thanks for all the advice guys. Unfortunately I am still having problems. A mate who is a plumber took a look at it and decided that after re filling and bleeding the system over and over it needed a new pump. I bought a LF Bros pump which stated that it has a flow of 10L/min and a lift head of 2M We fitted the pump bit still it doesn’t circulate. The water at the top of the boiler is hot but it just doesn’t flow around the system (just turns to steam if the valve on the outlet is bled while the fire is lit). Today my mate came back with a big 240volt chemical pump cleaner that he uses to flush out domestic heating systems. He connected it in place of the pump and tested the flow in both directions and found that it flows ok. We reconnected the circulation pump. Re-bled the system and still it is not circulating. My boat is a 70footer. The pump is located behind the front steps the stove is to one side about 2 meters from the front. There are 3 radiators along this side of the boat and a single radiator in the bathroom the other side. The pipes for the bathroom radiator may well travel to the back of the boat and then a 3rd of the way back towards the front. The header tank is outside just behind the rear bulk head on the cruiser deck. All the pipes are run at floor level so there is no help from gravity and the pump has to do all the work. We have checked the pipe layout from the stove to the pump and the pump is on the return pipe. Although the hot pipe does tee off under the stove, one direction feeds the rads and the other is capped off near the pump. I believe there was originally a diesel system adjacent to the front door at one time so this odd pipe may have been something to do with this. We are at present thinking that we need to fit a bigger pump? Due to the length of the boat (about a 60foot run one side added to about a 20foot run the other). My mate is suggesting a 240volt secondary circulation pump (this is the sort of thing he is used to) The boat did have a 240volt pump on it several years ago as pointed out to me by John who used to own it The boat has 4 large leisure batteries and a 600watt inverter. It has two large solar panels and a 5Kva generator built onto the engine. It also has two battery chargers. So replenishing the batteries shouldn’t be a problem just a potential pain in the bum. So the question is; is there a heavy duty 12volt pump that anyone can recommend that will drive this system (I think Johnson do some bigger than the CM10p7-1 that was originally installed) or should I just put in a 240volt that I know would do the job? Your thoughts will be greatly appreciated
  4. Also if is a man talking to a woman
  5. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-oxfordshire-35472028
  6. I have just bought a 70 footer; my reasoning was quite simple I intend to live aboard and CC, I intend to do as much of the network as possible. The 70 footer simply gives me more living space. OK so I can't do some of the northern canals but if I really need to collect them I can always hire or borrow a shorter boat; but for the bulk of the network I have more living and storage space
  7. The Mail is brilliant; but only if you read the headline then go straight to the comments section and tottaly ignore the rubbish story
  8. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3421145/Has-Pusher-struck-Man-s-body-Greater-Manchester-canal-fears-serial-killer-claimed-29th-victim.html
  9. (ring, ring) "Hello operator, sorry I can't quite hear you, you sound a little horse"
  10. I think you'll find that Ed Rimmer is the inside edge of a Hat
  11. My mistake, I read the email on my phone and only just realized that it is dated last Feb Please ingore
  12. Just revived this email, apparently the rules on CCing are being revised for February Being clear about whats required The majority of boaters who declare that they will continuously cruise do what is required without any problem. However, in February 2015 the Canal & River Trust announced plans to provide greater clarity to those boaters who have stated that they will continuously cruise, but then dont move their boat far enough or often enough to meet the Trusts published Guidance. This was part of an information drive to remind all continuous cruisers of the requirement to navigate in accordance with our Guidance for Boaters without a Home Mooring. We explained that if we had concerns about your past cruising pattern, we would get in touch before your licence needed to be renewed to let you know what happens next. Further information about this can be found on our enforcement webpage www.canalrivertrust.org.uk/enforcement. What this means is, each month, when the licence for a boat that doesnt have a home mooring comes up for renewal, well look back at its cruising pattern to see whether its appropriate to re-licence the boat again as a continuous cruiser. If, at the time of renewal, were generally happy with the cruising pattern over the course of the previous licence period, well issue another continuous cruiser licence straight away. Of course, if during the period of the new licence we become concerned about the boats cruising pattern then well let the boater know. If we do have concerns we will get in touch about six weeks before the licence renewal date, to let them know which of the following two categories applies and what they need to do: Category one Boats that have hardly moved during their licence period wont have their continuous cruiser licence renewed. For the first few months after 1 May 2015, while boaters are getting used to this new approach, well give those in this category another chance to establish an acceptable cruising pattern by issuing a three-month licence. If, after this three-month period they still havent moved far enough then theyll have to secure a home mooring before getting a new licence. This option of giving a three-month licence is to be offered on renewals for a limited period only. Category two If a boat has been moving, but not enough to fully meet the requirements of our Guidance, well only issue a six-month licence as a continuous cruiser. This will give the boater the chance to establish an acceptable cruising pattern. If, after this six-month period, theyve still not changed their cruising pattern then theyll have to secure a home mooring before getting a new licence. If at any stage during your cruise you encounter problems which mean you cannot move every 14 days. Please get in touch with the Enforcement officer for that area so you can discuss the matter. There contact details can be found on the website at www.canalrivertrust.org.uk/enforcement or by calling customer services and telling them your locations and asking to be directly to the local enforcement officer. Please take the time to read our Guidance for Boaters without a Home Mooring to make sure you know what our expectations, in terms of cruising pattern, are. If youre still unsure after reading it then please contact your local enforcement officer who will be able to help. Contact details for all enforcement officers can be found online at www.canalrivertrust.org.uk/enforcement.
  13. This forum should have a pinned section for Bizzard Inventions so that the uninitiated can easily find such wisdom and knowledge
  14. So the engine uses a certain amount of fuel on tick over to charge the batteries; which I assume to be rated at 0% If the drive is engaged and the revs pushed up to drive the prop, the batteries will also charge at a faster rate; but how would the calculation be made to work out what percentage of additional fuel is used to drive the prop? one could presumably argue that the engine needs to be run to charge the batteries and the drive is using power from that practice rather than let it go to waste and see if the tax man can understand the mechanics of it all Although with my luck I will get a tax inspector with an advanced engineering degree It seems that these rules assume that the fuel is used for propulsion and an allowance is made for heating etc. I would argue that depending on your boating life style that the fuel could be used for heating and charging and the allowance should therefore be made for the occasional bit of cruising
  15. If the engine has to be run for 3 hours a day to charge the batteries and you happen to cruise at the same time, would you need to declare propulsion as you were in fact nescessarily charging your batteries? It seems stupid not to kill two birds with one stone when you can
  16. Well today I had a mate who is a plumber come down to the boat to take a look. We topped the system right up and bled it thoroughly but the pump is still not pushing the water around the system. Conclusion it needs a new pump. I spoke to John today who used to own the boat and he told me that when he first bought it, it had a domestic 240v pump fitted. ! told this to my mate (who is not really used to doing boat plumbing) and he suggested putting in another 240volt pump connected to a pipe thermostat to automatically switch it on when the pipes behind the boiler get hot. The only down side to this is that the inverter will need to be constantly on in during winter when the fire is lit. I can't really see this as a problem as the boat has 4 very large leisure batteries. and I'm bound to have something else on the boat running 240. Of course the inverter itself will draw some power. The boat also has no freezer. It does have a 12v fridge. I was wondering weather to buy a cheap small 240v freezer as the cost of 12v is ridiculous. If this were the case the inverter would be running 24/7 Your thoughts please.
  17. Thanks for all the advice. Personally I think the pump is knackered, I know I ran it for more than 30 mins the first night I lit the stove. And also ran it the next day after I filled the system, when the squealing became more, well let's say "aggressive". I have had a look on eBay, as suggested by Wonderdust, for a cheaper replacement; however there are plenty to choose from and I'm not sure which would be the best option. If someone could post a link to a suitable replacement it would be much appreciated. Love the advice from Mike the boiler man to fit the isolator valves. Why this isn't done as standard I don't know, it is so logical and not exactly expensive. I mean really how much can two valves cost £10-£20 not exactly bank breaking is it? And John yes it is your old boat PM sent
  18. Milwaukee are definitely available in the UK. When my van was broken into a couple of years ago by those delightful travelling folk, I replaced my trusty 24v Bosch with a Milwaukee set. An 18v combi drill and an 18v SDS with 2 x batteries that are interchange able and a 240v charger unit. The Milwaukee SDS is superb, light weight enough to drill holes through walls one handed above your head, and powerful enough to do the job The Combi has more torque than and compact battery drill I have ever used. I would rate it above DeWalt or Makita Not cheap to buy though
  19. I would suggest the choice of drill would depend on the work it will be used for A 12v would be ok for occasional domestic use, drilling holes in wood or thin steel, but absolute rubbish if you want to use it as a power screwdriver for any length of time i.e. screwing sheets of ply to line a loft or something. They just don't have the torque and this will eat the power (maybe even cook the motor) A decent make 18v would be the best choice but a waste of a good tool if it isn't used very often. Most 12v drills are not very good with masonry, 18v is better but this is only hammer action; to do the job properly you need an SDS drill. However for the odd few holes i.e. fixing up a shelf or something an 18v hammer action will probably do the job. I have used drills professionally for years and would not bother again with 12v or 14.4v even for domestic use, but then I am the sort of person who would happily spend the cash for quality. note some drills will not hold small drill bits under 2mm so if you need to do delicate work you will need to read the drill specs. most keyless chucks will only hold max 10mm bits some will go to 13mm but very few would go larger. So again I suggest that you first work out what type of jobs the drill will do; then pick a decent branded make; then find the unit in that range that suits.
  20. I am hoping someone can help I picked up my new boat from Daventry, just before Xmas, and spent a week cruising it down to Harefield. It is a 70ft cruiser stern about 16 years old. Everything on board seems to function ok except for the heating. It has a morso squirrel with a back boiler and several radiators. I found some hand written instructions in one of the draws (presumably written by one of the previous owners) stating that the circulation pump needs to be switched on prior to lighting the stove. When switched on the pump whines and squeals; next to the pump is a variable potentiometer mounted in a single gang electrical patris plate, when turned this affects the pitch of the squealing pump. I assume that this is a variable speed control for the pump that acts as a voltage regulator. The pump is a Johnson CM-10P-7 12volt During my journey down we turned on the pump and lit the fire. The radiators did not get hot. The next day I decided to top up the header tank. This took a great deal of water. I bled the radiators until water trickled out at the top. Lit the fire again but still not heating the radiators. The amount of water the system took led me to thinkthat the system had been deliberately drained. Why this should be I do not know. Perhaps the pump failed and the last owner did not bother to get it repaired and just decided to drain it. There are two electric oil filled radiators on board and as the boat has a 5 KVa generator off of the engine I thought perhaps that this was used for heating on days when the stove is not needed. I think the boat at one time had a diesel fired heating system (possibly tied into the same radiators) as there is space in the engine bay on one side of the counter and a disused diesel pipe coming out of the tank. (Maybe it broke and rather than fix it the oil filled were fitted)(There is also a capped of water pipe next to the pump which is located just behind the front steps) First of all is it bad for the stove to light the fire if the pump does not run? I found the pump on line and it is about £140. I was thinking that the best thing to do is to drain the system and take the pump out and try it in a bowl of water to find out if it actually pumps. The problem is that with just a pipe connected into a bowl of water there is no pressure for the pump to push against so it may seem that it works but when fitted back to the system it just isn’t up to task. So should I just bite the bullet and by a pump anyway? Your thoughts on this would be appreciated
  21. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3393406/Man-dies-canal-boat-living-caught-fire-slept.html
  22. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3385889/From-old-radios-CAR-Paris-city-chiefs-drain-iconic-canal-time-15-years-uncover-host-discarded-debris.html
  23. Any ideas when the next offer is likely to be out? never mind just read last page doh!!
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