sbainbridge

Try Boatmail.co.uk You get an address in Gloucester and they forward mail to any address you want including local post offices (poste restante) or scan and email. The address is acceptable for driving licence, dwp, banks etc.

Thanks for the responses so far. Both multiplug cleaned and connections remade, no difference Ignition switch sprayed with WD40, suggestion from Beta Marine technical support. Beta Marine technical support also sent annotated wiring diagrams for the affected area. I traced all the relevant wires and mine differ from those sent by Beta. I composed a long email with all the results to Beta together with photo's. Gmail in its infinite wisdom screwed it up, didn't send it and then lost it forever. Couldn't redo the email today as was travelling. Having moved on the boat as a live aboard guess what I threw away when clearing the house out as it would never be needed on a boat? Will get an electrician to look at both alternators when we get to the winter moorings marina. The buzzing relay is more of an irritant as it is something that should not happen, but it does not appear to have affected the charging.

When not under heavy external load it charges at around 14.6 volts, however it still looks like I need to get the alternator checked. I was hoping that there was a relatively simple check I could do with a multimeter to isolate if there was a problem. The switch connection possibility came from Beta Marine technical services, however I can see flaws in the hypothesis.

Unfortunately I do not have any method of checking the charging current or output other than observing that when the missus is using high current mains appliances with the engine running (hair dryer, microwave, iron) the engine responds to the extra loading and the measured battery voltage is above the full battery rest voltage running between 13.0 to 13.5 volts. Indicating perhaps that the alternator is providing a significant part of the power demand.

Are there any simple multimeter voltage/resistance checks that could verify this. I have a basic multimeter. Would the frequency of buzzing vary with engine revs? Am I likely to be damaging the batteries by continuing to run in this potential condition? Another possibility that has been proposed to me is that the feed from the ignition switch is intermittent/not sufficient to hold power to the coil and collapses / remakes the connection I.e. dodgy ignition switch contact.

Curiosity got the better of me and I disconnected/reconnected the multiplug behind the panel about half a dozen times. No change and still buzzing. The relay that is; not me. Don't fancy going down the engine "ole" at the moment so will try the engine ole multiplug tomorrow, thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks, will try this tomorrow as it is getting dark now. Will report back if it is successful.

The 12 volt 40 amp relay behind the control panel is buzzing. It only occurs with the engine running It does not occur with the engine switched on but not running It does not occur with the engine switched off The engine is a Beta 43, 2006 vintage The control panel is the Beta "C" with tachometer, oil pressure gauge, volt meter, water temperature, green power on light, red warning lights for oil pressure, engine alternator, domestic alternator. And warning buzzer. The control panel shows all lights before engine startup and all red warning lights go out after engine start up. The engine needs to be started at higher revs than tickover but as soon as the engine starts the alternator warning lights go out and remain out when returned to tickover. The engine battery appears to charge ok (the engine alternator feeds a diode splitter which then feeds the engine battery and the bow thruster battery) charging is a little slow but I think this could be explained by the lower voltage that would be obtained by using a diode splitter. The domestic batteries appear to charge ok (4x Trojan t105 type batteries wired series/parallel for 12v. Solar recently installed I thought it could possibly be the solar causing it, but it still happens with the solar controller output isolated. Can anyone A) tell me what this relay does any suggestions as to what the problem is and how to fix it Ps I did not insert the emoji, the furum software did. It was supposed to be "B bracket"

There are nearly 4 million children under 4, that would be a lot of soiled nappies in the general waste. There are 35,000 boaters licences issued by CRT, the majority have pump outs or cassettes. I can't imagine that compost toilet waste that is binned poses a significant issue in the overall scheme of things.

Vax rechargeable vacuum cleaner. It's my new passion, chasing flies round the boat armed with the vacuum cleaner. It works and is very effective.

Seconded, and no oily residues to contaminate clothing

Our Paloma pilot light doubles our gas consumption if left on 24/7. We now only have it on when in use

Warwick is fine, the cape or saltisford. Some of Leaminginton on the approach not so good

No it's not, I have to keep telling the other half that man flu is worse than bird flue

The snap on multimeter is old, I suggest that you get a more modern digital meter when you can afford one as they are more accurate and have a higher resolution more suitable for measuring battery voltages (£10 - £20). Google using a multimeter for some excellent tutorials. Some Blue Peter sticky back plastic and vinyl transfers will transform your fridge Never drink tea with a spoon in the cup as it can lead to blindness