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umpire111

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Posts posted by umpire111

  1. think Im about to show my ignorance but here goes. Changed the  coolant on my NB for first time today. All emptied except the white plactic header tank about the calorifier did not budge, should the coolant not have drained out of that as well? Im sure that feeds into the calorifier which I trust emptied. Put me out of my misery please

  2. 35 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

     

    Be wary - my skin tank is closer to 30 litres. Overkill I think, but it is what it is.

     

    In your situation the first time around, I undid the top hose and used a Pela type pump, which worked but it was when I found out the hose and spigots were mismatched and the "seal" was a bodge by the reputable boatbuilder's "plumber". Took me ages to stop the repeated weeping  leaks and I only sorted it properly when I eventually replaced all my hoses as preventative maintenance at 10 years and did a proper job. 

     

    Antifreeze does have a corrosion inhibitor in it, but it's the degradation of this that means it needs changing, not the anti freeze properties. Trouble is, AF is also a bit nasty on paintwork, so I'd not be keen to drop it in the bilge. If you do get it in there, rinse and wet vac would be my course of action.

     Much appreciated…..not looking forward to doing it

  3. Just now, nicknorman said:


    Just for clarity I wasn’t proposing to put a pipe down the bleed valve. What I did was to disconnect the main 28mm pipe that goes to the bottom of the skin tank, at the engine end. I could then push the garden hose down the 28mm pipe far enough to reach the bottom of the skin tank, and then pump it out.

    Understand, tx. May seem a daft question but I couldn’t just replace the 7 litres I e got out and repeat process more regularly?

  4. 59 minutes ago, nicknorman said:

     

    Depends on you installation. We have Beta 43 with just the 1 skin tank. The bottom of the skin tank is well below the engine drain. So having drained whatever came out of that, I removed the hose going to the bottom of the skin tank at the engine end. Not much fluid came out, and we have an area under the engine to collect that sort of thing without polluting the canal with it. I then inserted some garden hose down the skin tank hose until it got to the bottom of the skin tank. I then used the spare Whale Gulper shower drain pump that we have, to pump it out into a bucket. Once that was emtpy I used same pumpt to extract the bit of fluid that had ended up under the engine. A bit faffy but I couldn't think of an easier way of doing it.

    Tx, can’t get any pipe down the bleed valve. Tx for response but I think there’s quite a bit in both skin tanks

    41 minutes ago, system 4-50 said:

    I never understood why my cooling system (for a Beta 43) didn't have a T with a valve for draining puposes.  The professional I got to do the job on occasion just dropped it all into my otherwise dry bilge which I did not like.

    I agree re drain valve! How did he get it out of the bilge?

  5. Have a Beta 43 in my NB. Tried to drain engine coolant for first time today in order to change it. I attached  a plastic pipe to the outlet drain valve on the engine and dropped  it down to a container in the bilge, removed cap on expansion tank on engine. Opened drain valve and it started to drain out albeit slowly. When there was about 7 litres in the container it stopped draining. By blowing down the plastic pipe it was evident I have drained all liquid above that level. Unfortunately the skin tanks are lower and there is still coolant in those. I removed the bleed not  hoping to get a small pipe to the bottom of the tank and to use a small pump to remove the contents. The hole is about 3mm wide and not big enough to insert a effective pipe. The only way I can see to get the coolant out of the tanks is to remove the main inlet pipe at the bottom of the tank. I cannot get a container underneath it as it sits on the bilge bottom. I could ley the contents go into the bilge but that would mean I would have, estimated, 7/10 litres in the bilge form each of the 2 skin tanks.

    Am I missing a trick here?

  6. 1 hour ago, BoatinglifeupNorth said:

    Sprotborough isn't as popular as it used to be, a lot of boaters moor above Mexborough Low lock at the Pastures, there’s a carvery type pub there, so somewhere to eat and have a drink if you want to get off the boat.

     Next day you should should get to Iccles Lock, don’t stay at Eastwood, moorings now filling up with CMoorers on GRP’s getting worse. At Iccles you’ll moor topside on lock landing, next morning you’ll meet the lock keeper at Holmes Lock just around the bend about 5 minutes away, it’s assisted passage so he’ll go ahead and set the locks, but you’ll have to do them also. You usually meet him about 09:00-09:30hrs and should be at Victoria Quays by 1pm.

     There are no visitor moorings beyond the Swing bridge, but you can go through to turn and water up(BW key and windlass required key point/ windlass stud on actual bridge stanchion) Elsen disposal, rubbish bins. The visitor moorings are on the right hand side when you come under the railway and road bridge, they are clearly marked. They are accessible to anyone like the majority of the moorings there so don’t temp fate by leaving anything thats valuable out.

     Fairly easy run from Sprot/Mex maybe a volunteer on Mex Low and Top to get you through, maybe one at Aldwick?

     Rotherham town lock needs a BW key, you’ll need to close top sluice before you start and leave top and bottom sluices open when you leave. All the locks to here are electric key operated.

     The only thing to keep an eye on is the weather, too much rain and the rivers rise too much the Tinsley Flight will close so keep an eye on the flood level boards when you go onto the river sections. 

     

    Tx for a very comprehensive and informative response, much appreciated 

  7. Have a bog standard rooftop aerial from Wifi Onboard and it’s worked well. However I think a few bashes on the aerial have damaged it internally. Done all checks and with internal aerial in router only and am getting 21mbps but with external only 4 or 5, it clearly needs replacing. But, it cost about £150 for a replacement, can anyone recommend another type that can easily be screwed onto the existing base at a lesser cost?

    IMG_1832.jpeg

  8. 12 minutes ago, nicknorman said:

    The manual says 7.4 litres for the engine, plus the pipework through the calorifier and the skin tank. Maybe same again for that lot ie  15 litres. Depends a lot on the skin tank as some I’ve seen are really fat, others like ours are pretty thin. So I’d guess 5 litres of antifreeze will probably be enough, and that assumes you manage to get all the old coolant out of the skin tank etc. 

    tx, I couldnt find a volume in the engine manual

    1 minute ago, umpire111 said:

    tx, I couldnt find a volume in the engine manual

    I assume you just turn the drain tap on and drain it into a container...no pumping etc?

     

  9. 22 minutes ago, dmr said:

     

    A couple of examples...

    I did the well deck and back counter in epoxy to get the strength and long term water protection. I then put a couple of coats of Craftmaster raddle on top because thats the colour that I wanted. I then decided that this was too slippery so put a quick coat of BondaPrimer on top of the Raddle. I think this was about 7 years ago and its still going strong, though the Raddle and Bonda need repeating every three years or so.

     

    The lower tunnel band is done in international Tplac on top of the epoxy.

     

    It is possible to get Jotun 90 in a range of colours but it only comes in big tins. Its a lot more convenient to just keep one colour of epoxy and put a one pack colour on top.

     

    I am also happy to mix and match layers of one pack, in general I don't think its important to stick with one brand of paint but there are exceptions to this.

    That’s also most useful, tx

  10. 1 minute ago, blackrose said:

    You can paint a single part paint on top of your two pack epoxy. As dmr says, you should probably give it a good key first with a sander and a medium grit paper. However, I'm not sure why you'd want to do that? It seems like a particularly bad idea to me because someone spent a lot of money on a high quality durable epoxy and now you want to paint over it with an inferior paint. It also limits your ability to use two pack again in future unless you want to strip the whole lot off.

     

    So I don't really understand why people keep asking this question? When it comes to painting a boat, it's almost a mantra on this forum that you should try to use the same paint that was used previously - unless you're stripping back and want to use something completely different. But for some reason when it comes to epoxy people seem hell bent on painting single part paints over the top! Weird.

    Tx, the sides are scratched and simply need repainting, as we use the boat this will be an ongoing issue and 1 pack just seems far easier to use 

  11. 11 hours ago, MtB said:

     

    Indeed. 

     

    On the one hand the requirements of the RCR far exceed the BSS in most areas of overlap. On the other hand the boat builder simply declares his new boat complies, banks the money and disappears into the sunset (if he is of the cowboy persuasion).

     

    But even if the builder is still in business, the first BSS falls due when the new boat reaches four years old and the builder might say the boat is out of guarantee and he isn't fixing any shortcomings. 

     

     

    Tx, think I understand

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