Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. Oh and I always drop it out of gear then slow to a stop on leaving the tunnel towards Froghall. Its very shallow and even with our 54' boat, I can never make the tight corner on first attempt. Battered piling there suggests I'm not the only one who's had this problem ??
  2. We go through regularly with a replica BCN tug style boat. With a fullish water tank we're about five foot to top of handrails and five foot across the top - I think this is what the crt sign says the limit is, but we slip through really easily with no problems. Tend to find that it's historic boats, replicas and 70s / 80s boats in the basin.
  3. Thanks for the advice, some food for thought. Sounds like it's worth doing the locker first to improve my technique.
  4. That's what I was hoping to hear. I'm planning on doing much the same with the gas locker as the vents can let a bit of water in with a full water tank. Think I can live with a finish that isn't 100% smooth as the matt topcoat should hide the worst - its there to be walked over and have stuff put on it anyway.
  5. Hello everyone. Hopefully an easy question to answer. I've got to repaint my roof this year as rust has broken through in a number of areas. Given the success we've had with the use of two pack epoxy on the hull, is there any reason not to use an appropriately coloured 2 pack epoxy primer on areas of the roof? We'd then paint over this raddle red / epifanes multiforte or similar. There are a number of areas on the roof where water can collect temporarily, and I was hoping this might resist immersion for short periods.
  6. I found myself in a similar situation earlier this year - overcoating a coal tar epoxy with something else. I spoke to Jotun and International and received the response below. I didn't as regarding moisture tolerance unfortunately. I went for Jotun 87 in the end. You can get it in 'winter grade', because the normal 87 takes more than a week to cure. Full thread is here:
  7. Pretty good news on the whole from Jotun and International. Both people I spoke to confirmed that bleeding was to be expected. but that provided there was an adequate amount of surface abrasion of the original coal tar epoxy the jotamastic 87 or interzone 954 coatings should adhere ok. Both said that the bleeding should be an aesthetic issue only. This doesn't bother me too much, and the discolouration should apparently be quite limited given it will be against the black of the coating. I was told an aluminium rich primer would seal the tar better.
  8. Ace. Will report back in this thread once I get a chance to ring them.
  9. It's may be a major headache for many - at least I know what the existing coating is! Haven'thad a chance to get onto a manufacturer yet, just suppliers. But, International intertuf 262 looks like it might be an option to seal the coal tar epoxy before putting the next stuff on. The datasheet for this product says it's suitable for spot repair and 'upgrading' of substrates including coal tar epoxy, and then needs coating with intergard 263, a tiecoat. Not a cheap option and haven't found a UK supplier yet, but has to be better than paying to blast it all off and start over
  10. I've been advised the same. I'm due to recoat later in the year and this raises a big concern, as the hull is coated in two pack pitch epoxy. I'd imagine many are in the same position. My (limited) understanding is that overcoating coal tar pitch based epoxies presents a risk of the pitch 'bleeding' due to the the new coating. If the original coats are compromised by whatever I throw on later, it renders the blacking exercise a bit pointless! However, a search online found a book (Marine Painting Manual by A.M. Berendsen) stating that this risk when overcoating may be addressed by applying a 'sealer' or 'tiecoat'. I've yet to find a suitable product to do this though.
  11. Would the whole lot be expected to move at the same time once the grub screw is out or would I need to shift the collar bit with the grub screw and raised hand start gubbins first? Pulleys about 7" and the stub shaft is about the same deep, so I'd guess a three legged gear puller is the way to shift it? Access is actually pretty good, thankfully
  12. It's not ideal, but its been there since I've had the boat and hasn't seemingly had an effect previously, I'd guess due to the profile of the chip
  13. Good evening. The crankshaft pulley on my hrw2 (see photo) has come out of alignment from the water pump and alternator pulleys, leading to some chewing of the belts. Ive had a look over the crankshaft pulley and can't work out exactly how to loosen it. There is a grub screw that comes down onto what looks like a key(?) in a slot in the shaft. There is a second grub screw in the sprocket serving the raised hand start. I've had both screws out and nothing is budging, despite a few weeks of dripping plus gas at it. Rather than damage it, how should the pulley come free and tighten up again? This isn't in the workshop manual unfortunately. Is a special tool needed? Thanks for your help.
  14. Thanks for all of your replies - a real mine of useful information! Definitely going to give the HNC a go once the stoppage at Marple clears. Its been on my list for a long time. Planning to go down the Rochdale afterwards too.
  15. Thanks - mobile phone left out the foot apostrophe thing, so should have said we're 2 foot 7. Hadn't seen that PDF before, that's really helpful.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.