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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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  1. I found myself in a similar situation earlier this year - overcoating a coal tar epoxy with something else. I spoke to Jotun and International and received the response below. I didn't as regarding moisture tolerance unfortunately. I went for Jotun 87 in the end. You can get it in 'winter grade', because the normal 87 takes more than a week to cure. Full thread is here:
  2. Pretty good news on the whole from Jotun and International. Both people I spoke to confirmed that bleeding was to be expected. but that provided there was an adequate amount of surface abrasion of the original coal tar epoxy the jotamastic 87 or interzone 954 coatings should adhere ok. Both said that the bleeding should be an aesthetic issue only. This doesn't bother me too much, and the discolouration should apparently be quite limited given it will be against the black of the coating. I was told an aluminium rich primer would seal the tar better.
  3. Ace. Will report back in this thread once I get a chance to ring them.
  4. It's may be a major headache for many - at least I know what the existing coating is! Haven'thad a chance to get onto a manufacturer yet, just suppliers. But, International intertuf 262 looks like it might be an option to seal the coal tar epoxy before putting the next stuff on. The datasheet for this product says it's suitable for spot repair and 'upgrading' of substrates including coal tar epoxy, and then needs coating with intergard 263, a tiecoat. Not a cheap option and haven't found a UK supplier yet, but has to be better than paying to blast it all off and start over
  5. I've been advised the same. I'm due to recoat later in the year and this raises a big concern, as the hull is coated in two pack pitch epoxy. I'd imagine many are in the same position. My (limited) understanding is that overcoating coal tar pitch based epoxies presents a risk of the pitch 'bleeding' due to the the new coating. If the original coats are compromised by whatever I throw on later, it renders the blacking exercise a bit pointless! However, a search online found a book (Marine Painting Manual by A.M. Berendsen) stating that this risk when overcoating may be addressed by applying a 'sealer' or 'tiecoat'. I've yet to find a suitable product to do this though.
  6. Would the whole lot be expected to move at the same time once the grub screw is out or would I need to shift the collar bit with the grub screw and raised hand start gubbins first? Pulleys about 7" and the stub shaft is about the same deep, so I'd guess a three legged gear puller is the way to shift it? Access is actually pretty good, thankfully
  7. It's not ideal, but its been there since I've had the boat and hasn't seemingly had an effect previously, I'd guess due to the profile of the chip
  8. Good evening. The crankshaft pulley on my hrw2 (see photo) has come out of alignment from the water pump and alternator pulleys, leading to some chewing of the belts. Ive had a look over the crankshaft pulley and can't work out exactly how to loosen it. There is a grub screw that comes down onto what looks like a key(?) in a slot in the shaft. There is a second grub screw in the sprocket serving the raised hand start. I've had both screws out and nothing is budging, despite a few weeks of dripping plus gas at it. Rather than damage it, how should the pulley come free and tighten up again? This isn't in the workshop manual unfortunately. Is a special tool needed? Thanks for your help.
  9. Thanks for all of your replies - a real mine of useful information! Definitely going to give the HNC a go once the stoppage at Marple clears. Its been on my list for a long time. Planning to go down the Rochdale afterwards too.
  10. Thanks - mobile phone left out the foot apostrophe thing, so should have said we're 2 foot 7. Hadn't seen that PDF before, that's really helpful.
  11. Hello all! I was planning on going up the Huddersfield narrow this spring. However I understand it can be tricky for depth, including getting past lock cills. My boat draws 2 foot 7 at a standstill, so a little more when underway. Would I be wasting my time or in for a lot of pain attempting the canal? Has anyone/does anyone know of boats getting through at a similar (or deeper) draught? Were 54 foot long and have fit comfortably through froghall and hurleston, so hopefully our other dimensions shouldnt be a problem...
  12. I strongly recommend getting a good marine electrician in to check the systems and make any repairs needed. I would also measure the depth of any pitting and check this against the small print of your insurance if you can. I understand that there is a risk it could be invalidated by deep pits. Remedial work might be needed to the hull. Sorry if this is alarming, but this could be vital to prevent more serious heartaches later.
  13. Thanks, makes sense now. Id seen them around but not known the name
  14. Does anyone know what these 'safety gates' are? I must admit I've only been boating a couple of years and this is a new one to me? Not entirely clear on how fitting some gates can take four months either.
  15. This raises a further important point. Heavy-handed enforcement like this can only harm the businesses along the Bridgewater, who can't have had a great year after the prolonged stoppages at Dutton, Castlefield etc. If its true the Bridgewater Canal Company wants to limit CRT-licensed boats to coming onto the Bridgewater once every 12 months, this would surely hit passing trade further.
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