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Arf

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  1. Thanks for your help. The boat hasn't had an accumulator since it was built about 13 years ago, but I'll give this a try. If nothing else it should take the stress off the pump.
  2. I have been experiencing an odd issue with my Morco D61E unit which has developed over the last month. When turned up to the highest end of the temperature gauge with any hot outlet open, it causes the water pump to cycle rapidly. This problem disappears and flows just like the cold outlets if the temperature is turned down - suggesting its not a furred up heat exchanger. The issue happens whether the pilot is lit or not, suggesting its not an issue with trapped air. I've read previous threads on similar issues and come to the following two conclusions - please could someone let me know if these are reasonable? As the heater is triggered by a flow differential, the water pump is no longer providing an adequate amount of flow when the burners are on full. Do water pumps producing a decreasing flow as they age? Its fine for everything else. OR: The water control assembly has a fault. Would a replacement or repaired assembly likely fix the problem? Does anyone know if this is separate to the gas bits of the heater, so I could replace this myself? The water pump is a Jabsco par max 2.9, which we've had for about three years now. I don't have an accumulator, even though I know I probably should. Thanks
  3. Provided its not too far, I think you could moor without too many worries past the aqueduct or after Croxton flash to the north. Its nice and deep there and should be far enough out.
  4. An odd one, but there's also a 24 hour contactless launderette in a petrol station forecourt at Endon, fairly close to the services before hazlehurst
  5. This is exactly what I've done both times. Maintaining that kind of pressure seems to have given it a decent key. Might be that epoxies without coal tar are a bit less resilient to a wire cup brush.
  6. I went through this process, with exactly the same epidac epoxy last year: I applied Jotun 87 after a (very powerful) jetwash at Northwich dry dock and scratching up the original coating with a wire cup brush on an angle grinder. You may find, like me, very little comes off when its dry dock time. Bar the sections I've donated from to the network from the rubbing strakes, it appears to have held up well in the last 12 months. From memory, the main things I had to watch for were making sure I had enough time in dry dock for a full cure, getting the right mixing ratios (check the technical data sheet) and being quick enough to apply it within the 'pot life'.
  7. Oh and I always drop it out of gear then slow to a stop on leaving the tunnel towards Froghall. Its very shallow and even with our 54' boat, I can never make the tight corner on first attempt. Battered piling there suggests I'm not the only one who's had this problem ??
  8. We go through regularly with a replica BCN tug style boat. With a fullish water tank we're about five foot to top of handrails and five foot across the top - I think this is what the crt sign says the limit is, but we slip through really easily with no problems. Tend to find that it's historic boats, replicas and 70s / 80s boats in the basin.
  9. Thanks for the advice, some food for thought. Sounds like it's worth doing the locker first to improve my technique.
  10. That's what I was hoping to hear. I'm planning on doing much the same with the gas locker as the vents can let a bit of water in with a full water tank. Think I can live with a finish that isn't 100% smooth as the matt topcoat should hide the worst - its there to be walked over and have stuff put on it anyway.
  11. Hello everyone. Hopefully an easy question to answer. I've got to repaint my roof this year as rust has broken through in a number of areas. Given the success we've had with the use of two pack epoxy on the hull, is there any reason not to use an appropriately coloured 2 pack epoxy primer on areas of the roof? We'd then paint over this raddle red / epifanes multiforte or similar. There are a number of areas on the roof where water can collect temporarily, and I was hoping this might resist immersion for short periods.
  12. I found myself in a similar situation earlier this year - overcoating a coal tar epoxy with something else. I spoke to Jotun and International and received the response below. I didn't as regarding moisture tolerance unfortunately. I went for Jotun 87 in the end. You can get it in 'winter grade', because the normal 87 takes more than a week to cure. Full thread is here:
  13. Pretty good news on the whole from Jotun and International. Both people I spoke to confirmed that bleeding was to be expected. but that provided there was an adequate amount of surface abrasion of the original coal tar epoxy the jotamastic 87 or interzone 954 coatings should adhere ok. Both said that the bleeding should be an aesthetic issue only. This doesn't bother me too much, and the discolouration should apparently be quite limited given it will be against the black of the coating. I was told an aluminium rich primer would seal the tar better.
  14. Ace. Will report back in this thread once I get a chance to ring them.
  15. It's may be a major headache for many - at least I know what the existing coating is! Haven'thad a chance to get onto a manufacturer yet, just suppliers. But, International intertuf 262 looks like it might be an option to seal the coal tar epoxy before putting the next stuff on. The datasheet for this product says it's suitable for spot repair and 'upgrading' of substrates including coal tar epoxy, and then needs coating with intergard 263, a tiecoat. Not a cheap option and haven't found a UK supplier yet, but has to be better than paying to blast it all off and start over
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