Murflynn
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Posts posted by Murflynn
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get back on topic and cover up for Gawd's sake !!
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Ah, you mean live and neutral. Profuse apologies.
Actually, the terms "live" and "neutral" don't make much sense to me either. Why are they so named?
please don't do any work on your 240V circuits - after all, we'd like to still see you posting next week.
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I have seen a few incidents of road rage, and even one of canal rage, where someone has got angry because the car/boat in front of them has failed to immediately move forward to occupy a newly vacated space.
............Dave
I have an automatic car. If I am coming up to a red light with a car in front of me I cruise along as slowly as possible hoping I don't need to brake and can pull away close behind the car in front when the lights change. I always get it right at familiar lights. Annoys the hell out of the tailgater behind. Luvvit
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First off a call out charge is usually for when a person is on stand by and working out of hours otherwise normal working hours get you ass to the job on your own coin as far as I'm concerned
Now let me get this straight Captain Jack, The BSS "Guy" came to the job and failed it but despite having the part left your customer scratching his head but returned again charging and still no offer or mention like " oh I have one of those"
If that's how it went don't use him again and knowing where you are on the canal under cut him on his gas,coal,diesel the lot as he seems to think he has "arrived" by the sounds of things.
Fair play to ya fella.
nonsense. more hot air.
It's not a "call-out charge", it's travelling time which is universally charged for work done away from base for most visiting types of profession.
Interestingly the HMRC rules on allowable deductions for income tax appear to exactly reflect what has been discussed here. Nobody gets relief on the cost of getting to their normal fixed place of work. Everybody gets tax relief on the cost of going from their normal fixed place of work to a jobsite.
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Our local marina is very fussy about accepting oil into their waste oil recycling tank because some folk try to tip contaminated bilge water into it. Apparently if there is 10% of water mixed with the oil, then the recycling company charges them an arm and a leg for processing it.
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Why would you want to eat anything that has lived in the waters of a canal? Unless your canal is a LOT cleaner than the ones ive seen.
If the water is clean enough for fish to survive there can't be much wrong with eating the fish - health-wise at least.
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What diameter and pitch is the blade? and how fast is your D3 spinning it?
All blades will cavitate at some point. Maybe you are just going too fast.
But to answer your question intuitively I'd expect the shaft speed at which cavitation begins to be a lot lower in shallow water than very deep with a NB. In shallow water the supply of water to the blade is along the sides of the swim only, but in deep water unlimited fluid is supplied from under the baseplate so a higher shaft speed will be needed to achieve cavitation.
But I'm just guessing. I know nuffink about it really.
MtB
this may be true for ventilation. I agree with Loddon - cavitation is very unlikely on a canal boat.
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First coat thinned down and brushed into all the nooks and crannies.
Second coat brush the margins then fluffy 9" roller on a long handle.
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I would poke around the forum for another week or three.
You will get conflicting advice and some nonsense in the replies to your questions in this thread, however all these topics have been covered many times in previous threads, and you must draw your own conclusions from the spectrum of opinions found there.
.......... and the Welshman's suggestion is very valid.
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(Mind you - we do have a fat boat)
wot does that say about you?
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My dogs don't discriminate between home and away. Anything within about 30 yards gets the warning, to the amusement of big dogs and all but the littleist people.
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Nice to imagine him enjoying the boat right up to when he passed away, let us hope that is the way it was.
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Surely HIN identification, to avoid Hull Identification Number Number.
That would be Hull Identification Number identification then
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Tried it in a very small cruiser 2 weeks ago, and the extent of weed growth put me off going far beyond Red House, based on my experience on the Thames last year, when I went well beyond Lechlade, but got bogged down in weed growth and overgrowing trees half way to Cricklade.
It is fun but turning round in a fairly swift current and a weed strewn prop is not straightforward.
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I suggest you visit all the outboard manufacturers' websites, and the Yachting forums (just google 'outboard alternator' and you'll come up with loads of links..
There are some motors with higher rated alternators, and much discussion among yachties.
i would also suggest you talk to an inland Honda dealer - they are the commonest motor used in these applications.
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wot he said, and keep 240 and 12V separated by a reasonable distance.
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It really isn't rocket science, just a few simple DIY tasks that can be handled progressively.
If you read the recommendations and follow them you will probably be more compliant than many boat builders would.
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Assuming that the anchor is deployed because of mechanical failure,when repairs have been completed,the engine can be used to assist in retrieving the anchor(tricky for a single hander)I have never tried to reverse up to an anchor,I guess its possible. I was always taught that an anchor and warp(or chain)may have to be cast away if it can not be retrieved .Depends on the flow .Unless you have tried to retrieve an anchor against a strong flow it is difficult to imagine how difficult it is. Larger sea going boats will usualy have a winch,never seen one on a narrow boat(but on some Dutch barge types)
if you are suggesting that the anchor should always be fixed to the sharp end to allow the boat to be motored up to retrieve the anchor, even if it is fixed at the stern, the fixing can be transferred to the bow by the judicial use of additional ropes.
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Mine is by company called intosofa but they seem to have disappeared excellent furniture .
Following the links I ended up with this website, which appears to be Intosofa under a new name. Same products as the old Intosafa website.
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The Narrowboat Builder's Book published by Waterways World - a bit dated but a very useful starter guide.
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The normally held view is that the anchor is there largely to secure the end of the chain, the chain should have sufficient weight to create a significant drag to hold the boat and to form a spring (the effect of trying to lift the heavy chain off the bottom will hold the boat in a tide or current). In that case the chain appears too light w.r.t. the size of the anchor. Forces generated when the boat is static are quite low, in a river related to the drag in the current, in a seaway you must add the bucking of the boat in waves. You can probably get away with an anchor, a short length of chain to hold the stock of the anchor on the river bed, and plenty of rope, in a river; chain comes into its own in a seaway.
If you ever wish to use the anchor to serve as an emergency brake you will need really substantial fixings and much thicker rope. The snatch force, if the anchor bites on anything solid, slowing the boat from maybe 3 knots in a strong current will be related to the weight of the boat (obviously) and to the elasticity of the rope.
If the rope has zero elasticity the snatch force is, in theory, infinite. If the boat is decelerated over a reasonable distance the snatch force is WxD/g where W is the mass (weight) of the boat, D is the deceleration and g is the gravity constant (in the same units). For example if the boat is slowed at a deceleration of 32ft/sec/sec then D/g is 1 and the snatch force is perhaps 18tonnes. In the case of stopping the boat dead from 3 knots in 2 seconds the average snatch force will be about 1tonne, (actually increasing from zero to about 3 tonnes as the rope stretches and takes up the strain) and the distance travelled (stretch in the rope) will be about 4metres. So if you have 20metres of rope it needs to be able to stretch by 4 metres. This is 20%, about the limit for nylon or polyethylene rope. The rope thickness needs to be at least 14mm to withstand this breaking strain.
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Suggest these Hella/DIN DC plugs and sockets - far superior to cigar lighter rubbish. The surface mount socket shown makes for easy fitting. Click for source.
its so good it is described by VWP as 'no longer available'
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http://www.jim-shead.com/waterways/mwp.php?wpage=Inland-Waterways-of-England.htm
links to full details of every waterway and its locks and bridges.
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reminds me of Hydrogenesis, the all aluminium Bristol 'hydrogen powered' water taxi that apparently cost the taxpayer (council tax) about £250K which I believe was spent largely with a local entrepreneur, and has not carried a passenger since it was launched in 2012. It was lauded as ground-breaking technology - can't see why, it's only using hydrogen cells in a boat. Today the local news seems to put it in the scandalous waste category. It produces 'zero emissions', but uses hydrogen supplied in cylinders by Air Products. I hate to think of the carbon footprint for the fuel manufactured remotely and then delivered by truck. A bit like saying an electric car using throwaway Duracells has zero emissions. The only effective use of hydrogen is if the fuel station has solar power and generates its own hydrogen from water, which apparently works in Arizona but not in Bristol.
In the case of the turbine barge, why is it located below a weir? Is it because it looks more dramatic, or maybe the oxygenated water is more charged with kinetic energy?
Why not harness much of the potential energy represented by the weir itself by replacing one or more sluice gates with prefabricated modules containing water wheels, as suggested by MtB? No wonder the Scots who rely on hydro power want to be disassociated with us....................
Oops
in General Boating
Posted
wasn't you driving was it, Phylis?