Ali Bongo

See my responses below... 1. I'll try and source this online, no issue. 2. How do I work out how much my appliances use? Is this called current draw? e.g. Laptop Chargers x 2 - 3.65 A each for 8 hours per day = 58.4 A per day??? 3. Ah so I can use a battery charger to convert 230V into 12V? 4. In terms of an alternator can I use a 12V one to charge my battery bank? Instead of a generator? I've also got a diesel generated heater that needs the engine running to heat up water for my calorifier, I guess I can then run the engine for both elec and water? I do have a solar charge controller, I forgot to mention that. I also have an immersion heater in my calorifier. Sure I guess just using the 12V LED I plan to put in will be enough, no need for lamps. I wont be having a microwave oven, we'll be using an LPG gas oven.

Hey Bottle! Thanks for getting back to me on this. See below for my responses... No.3 is indeed back to front, my mistake. I agree with there not being enough sockets in the kitchen, purely out of convenience makes sense. I guess I plan to use a battery charger, will the one below suffice? http://www.es-store.co.uk/product_details.php?product=BP-IP20-230V-12/015-GX1&description=Victron-Blue-Power-12V-15A-charger---IP20---single-output---230vac&cat_desc=-Victron-Bluepower-Chargers-(230v)---IP20---IP22&cat_id=82&show_menu=21&gclid=Cj0KEQjw-dSgBRDb0oOl9MzxqMEBEiQAkHqy-aELSKf4aG0H1H2aWpez2RdCKNGcMAZ3X4sFm79tt8AaAgb98P8HAQ

Im at the stage of installing my electrics system on board my 64ft narrowboat. I’m opting for both 12V and 240V, even though I predominantly intend to run as much of my power off the 12V supply, occasionally running the 240V when im connected up to shore power. I don't have any experience with electrics and very minimal knowledge, so please any responses without being wrapped up in jargon or complex terminology would be very much appreciated. Below is a list of the power consumption I plan to operate... 12V 3 x Solar Panels (660W Total) RCD Box 6 x Leisure Batteries (110ah each) Inverter (3000W) (STILL IN QUESTION AS ITS A BIG COST) · Overhead Lighting - LED’s · Fridge · Laptops · Phone Chargers · Bilge Pumps x 3 · Sound System · Shower Pump · Computer Fans · Nav Lights 240V · Vacuum Cleaner · Power Tools · Lamps Sockets Lounge 2 x 240V sockets 4 x 12 V sockets Kitchen 1 x 240V sockets 3 x 12V sockets Bedroom 2 x 240V sockets 2 x 12V sockets Study 1 x 240V socket 2 x 12V sockets Questions Can anyone provide a drawing of how this system would be wired in? Do you need any more details or information? Do my power sources (inverter, solar panels & battery bank) reflect enough output to do deal with my appliances? Do I need an inverter? I understand that it turns 240V into 12V, but is there any other way of doing this? Is there any materials I have missed out? i.e. alternator Is there any other way/suggestion to get electrics on my boat? I understand there is alot of information here but I would appreciate any help/advice on any of these points.

I also have another query... Do I need to connect a strainer and and water filter? The strainer located just after the water tank (I guess this would clear any debris in the tank from entering the system?) The water filter would be located just before the drinking water outlet (kitchen taps) Would both these components be advantageous and where can I source these parts from? Are they generic items found online/Screwfix etc or are they specialist parts Advance apologies again for my dimness

You're totally right, I should of been more specific about my enquiry yet I found this difficult to fathom when I'm entering a completely new domain. I thought that keeping it broad would relay me some foundations of which I could then of been more detailed about certain aspects of this fit out, however I do appreciate that it doesn't suit everyone and that it can be difficult and time consuming to aid. I'll definitely submit a drawing and part list that I intend to move forward with, that will evidently make this discussion alot more succinct for both parties. Thank you for your patience and understanding

Yes a full bore shut off valve is needed, this allows me to completely shut off the system, is that correct? (excuse my naivety) Is this a suitable shut off valve to use...http://www.screwfix.com/p/full-bore-lever-ball-valve-15mm/80413

Hey Pete Apologies for my delayed response... Really valuable advice given, see below for comments to your reply... A google on 'BSP threads' will give a couple of links to correctly measure and identify them. The size are in fractions of an inch eg 1/2" 3/4" 1", but be careful a thread that's about 3/4" across is NOT 3/4" BSP, it needs checking against a BSP thread table! I'll definitely check the BSP thread table and match up the correct diameters accordingly A tube of 'Fernox LS-X' jointing compound from the likes of Screwfix can be very handy to seal threaded connections I luckily found some of this of the boat when it was sold to me, so i'l be sure to use it when sealing connections The accumulator is fitted with the water connection at the bottom, a fixing kit can be used, or make something with pipe clip band and wood/plywood to make the 'saddle', eg: I've found a cheaper one at Screwfix - http://www.screwfix.com/p/expansion-vessel-mounting-bracket/86194 - it looks the identical as the one you quoted off ebay, yet less than half the price, do you think this will suffice? The calorifer just needs a decent base, could be handy to use some sturdy wooden bracketry as to restrain it if the boat has a collision. DO be sure to fit a 'Pressure Relief Valve' (PRV) to it, they must be fitted correctly for safety reasons! They often come ready fitted, or at least supplied with the calorifier, and look like this, eg: I have a C-Warm 55 lItre calorifier which came supplied with a PRV. I'll also be conscious to mount the calorifier securely, I'm planning to fabricate a housing for this out of wood. Something also worth considering is fitting a non return valve before the cold water inlet of the calorifier, and an 'expansion vessel' between the non return valve and cold inlet. The reason for this is that when the calorifier heats up, the water from the calorifier doesn't expand and go back and mix with the drinking water: A non return valve makes sense, something I didn't think of prior. I found one on Ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15mm-Double-Check-Valve-Speedfit-JG-John-Guest-Pushfit-Diy-Plumbing-Fittings-/291161228730?pt=UK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item43ca8fc5ba - does this look like the correct part if i'm using 15mm piping?

Hey Pete Thanks for the heads up..makes sense to google as much as I can. I will be using speedfit and have already sourced all the straight lengths ready to go. My dilemma is understanding how the calorifier and accumulator tank get installed. I've attempted to look online but to no avail, however i'l keep on plugging in and hopefully get there soon. Thanks all the same Ali

I'm currently fitting out a 64ft narrowboat and have reached the point of fitting out the plumbing. I'm concentrating on the fresh water system, of which im adopting a very similar (if not identical) structure to C-Warm's schematic drawing...(see image link below) http://www.tnorrismarine.co.uk/images/cal1.JPG This system on paper looks pretty straight forward to me, I've sourced most of the parts yet connecting them together is a mystery to me. I'll be using push fit Hep2O which is relatively basic to fit, my concern lies more with installing the main components like the calorifier, water pump, accumulator tank, shower, valves etc... Has anyone installed a fresh water system and can guide me in the right direction? P.s - I'm very new to boating and unfamiliar with plumbing 'know how', hence theoretic or jargon related advice won't really help me, im much more apt at learning in a practical and visual method, I would be truly grateful if you could cater to that medium of information, regardless any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.