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Tony Brooks

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Everything posted by Tony Brooks

  1. Although much here is perfectly valid I think that as the OP is only wishing to meet and MSC rules and is unlikely to be allowed on when nav lights are required than at least two suggestion would work for that. Even if not strictly in accordance with COLREGs.
  2. Tony Brooks

    Timing pointer

    That looks unlike anything I recall on a BMC and there looks like a dimple in the actual cover at the bottom of the V. Also it looks as if there are signs of welding at the outer ends of the V. I wonder if a mariniser made and fitted it.
  3. Simple enough to check BUT on no account remove the rubber seal from the cap. They tend to swell so you can't get them back in. Also make sure that the domed pump cap has not collapsed under the bolt. You can knock it back to shape with a ball side of a hammer. Also, I would use a new soft washer under the bolt head. You will get fuel out of the threaded hole if you pump the lift pump, but if you have any slight air leak, or air dissolved in the fuel it will try to build up in the filter head, the small hole in the side of the bolt is supposed to allow any air and a small amount of fuel to flow back to the tank. The filter (and any 296 type primary water trap) are notorious for having the seals fitted incorrectly. Wrong seal in the wrong locations, twisted seals, seals not in the slot, and on filter head bolts that are O ring sealed some filter suppliers have supplied the wrong small O ring. Try checking the fuel delivery to the filter (or through that banjo bolt hole) when turning the engine over by hand or starter. It can be easy to fit the pump lever in the wrong side of the cam shaft eccentric and that damage it so it won't deliver any fuel, although the priming lever will deliver fuel. Being an ex college engine, that might be al ikely cause
  4. That does look better, but I am surprised one tooth did not make more difference. I think the original photo showed the master spline a few degrees before 6 o'clock. I agree, the issue sounds more like a fuel problem. Make sure the banjo bolt holding the leak back pipe to the top of the filter is hollow and with a small hole in the side. Those holes can block and allow air to build up in the filter head.
  5. Those of us here who are likely to contribute to such topics almost certainly have some innate practical ability, but my time in FE tells me there are people around who do not so appear to believe or do, what to us, look like stupid things. This is a good reason not to keep on pointing out that a post looks like a wind up or a bot. However, when the OP fails to respond to suggestions and question in a sensible way, I think they forfeit such consideration.
  6. It is a solenoid - a starter solenoid off an inertia starter. However, some Lister engines use these to allow earth return for stating and then insulated return for running. I think that it may well cause starting volt drop in that use.
  7. Yes, just like checking any other volt drop without doing any sums. Volt meter, with a lead extended if necessary, between battery pos. and the main connection on the starter body (motor input terminal). The meter will read battery voltage, ignore this. Operate the starter and whatever the meter reads is the volt drop, BUT it may jump about a bit as the engine goes over compression. FWIW, you might have brush problems in the starter, the solenoid pull in coil runs to negative through the brushes.
  8. Your local(ish) vehicle electrical specialist or Lancashire Rotating Electrics. However, several other things can give that symptom. Including the multi-way plug(s) that many have in their main engine harness, worn ignition switch, bad master switch or you may have another solenoid or relay allowing a thinner cable to be used.
  9. That is important because if there are bends or slopes, even in a 1"+ pipe/hose, it could result in an airlock. I doubt anything nested in the filler over winter if it has a cap on it, but they may have done so in the breather.
  10. If PRM can no longer supply one, I would take it out to find out what thread it uses and then get plumbers fittings to fit an open-ended copper tube with the top bent through 180 degrees, so water can't get in. I would think 3mm / 1/8" bore tube would do. I have seen many gearboxes with broken breathers, and they do not seem to come to harm. You just have to let the pressure out as the box warms up to stop it blowing a seal, and then let air back in when it cools down. The length of the tube depends upon how high you want the open end, and that depends upon how likely and how badly you think the area may be flooded.
  11. I would think that it is possible to take the seals out of the housing and replace them with new ones from a local bearing supplier like Bearing Boys. They would need the o.d. & i.d.. However, there would likely be a steady leak into the boat while you are doing the work & getting the new seals.
  12. Tony Brooks

    Timing pointer

    PS You can also mount the degree plate on the crankshaft pulley and scribe timing marks direct one a pre-made and fitted plate.
  13. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  14. Tony Brooks

    Timing pointer

    1. The crankshaft pulley is keyed onto the crankshaft and the TDC no.1 datum is at the bottom of BMC timing covers, so I don't understand how the pointer can set the engine to BDC unless JohnK is correct and the pulley "flywheel" has moved on the rubber. 2. Having found TDC by the method you state, you can make datum on the engine backplate. Then count the flywheel teeth and divide into 360. that will give you the number of degrees per tooth so you can turn the flywheel to the 22 degrees BTDC by reference to the teeth. You could print a degree plate on card and one TDC is found, stick it to the flywheel to set it exactly at 22 BTDC. Clear plastic degree plates are available commercially, but they tend t be rather small for the flywheel. Once you have done that you can make an exact plate to bolt onto the timing cover flange. I know what the plate looks like, but am not clear how you can make an accurate one unless your diagram/photo is to to 1:1 scale.
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  16. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  17. Tony Brooks

    Timing pointer

    It was a long time ago, but I think I have seen some flywheel marks on the 1.5D to aid timing when rebuilding the engine, but you can't see them unless you take the flywheel housing off, but even if they are not there the Op could get very close to the correct timing by using the flywheel teeth and then fabricate his own timing plate to bolt to the timing cover. If you are talking about the outer pulley "flywheel" slipping on the rubber insert then I have never known them to move because the rubber is bonded to the metal parts, rather than just pushed in like rubber drive bushes on outboard props.
  18. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  19. Well, they can go in the oven without burning any plastic/wooden handles. If one insists on band names, then expect to pay for it. My ally one form Dyas seems to be listed at £37 as a casserole, but the labelling on ours said Dutch oven. Our lid is different to a saucepan so when using it on top of the stove the steam condenses and drops back into the pan during long, slow cooking so the contents don't dry out.
  20. This, I fully agree. Especially in view of all the marketing bullshine, half-truths and lies that see, endemic in certain sectors of that industry.
  21. The same type of bearings are/were used on wooden and GRP boats with a stern tube on the shaft log (keel) and, as you say, they worked by immersion with water "scoops" at the front of the rear bearing housing. If a second bearing was needed, then a bleed type feed from the raw water cooling circuit was fitted. I agree the pipe should act as a breather, but that requires the other end to be above the waterline. If the builder got the height wrong or if the boat has been loaded since fitting, then it might be below the waterline, so could flow through the grease hole if the back seal fails. I suspect that is why the pipe usually has a shut-off valve on it.
  22. If brook23 is correct (and I have no reason to believe they are not) then as long as the seal behind the grease void is in good order water can not come up the shaft. It also means that if any water is coming down the breather tube then that should not get into the grease void, so I was wrong.
  23. I think the seals are in front of the grease hole and the shaft bearing is usually a fluted Cutless rubber bearing with longitudinal "slots" in the rubber. I don't see water will not come out of that hole, especially if the assembly has a water pipe leading up to the weed hatch trunk.
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