Tony Brooks

As Tracy says, no relevance to the amount of fuel being delivered into the cylinders, it's the injector pump that does that. However, if you fitted one with a very low output you might not get enough fuel into the injector pump, but this would just result in lack of revs/power. I think you would be very hard-pressed to do that on our sort of engines unless the new pump was faulty. In fact it is fairly common to disconnect a faulty mechanical lift pump and fit an electric one from a motor factors.

Yes, and it could wreck the engine if it gets into the cylinders in any quantity. It will lay in any low points and soften the carbon layer so when you start it blows water and muck out the top. I think it's the splash marks on the cabin side that gives it away. In general black smoke while hot and running indicates lack of air as indicated by Bee's reply but it could be other things or too much fuel which is unlikely unless you have an oversize or fouled prop or very badly worn injectors. A far less common cause on dry exhaust boats is partially blocked exhaust, so the cylinders are not properly purged of burned gasses which in turn means they can't draw in sufficient clean air. So unlikely in this case, forget about it.

I agree with whoever said it looks like a modern car type pressure cap and if you inspect it you may well find the pressure. More likely something like 250KP than PSI. However, that does not mean it is a pressure cap, it may not have the pressurisation parts inside it, it could just be an automotive expansion tank plus a modified automotive pressure cap that can't hold pressure. The easiest way to check is to put it in your mouth and seal around the rubber ring with your lips. Then give t a good blow. If air passes through it is not a pressure cap, if not, then it is. If it is, I would suggest it will be set to vent at something like 15 PSI. Using it as a pressure cap MIGHT reduce the evaporation rate when hot but would make leaks a bit more likely, but I would be happy with it. I don't think this is what is meant by a pressurised system in central heating terms, that uses an "accumulator" to hold the top-up water and allow for expansion, just like a domestic combi-boiler. That presents a problem with repressurising with a ready mixed antifreeze mixture. Whereas all you have to do is remove the cap and pour a bit more in. If you really do not want any pressure in your system then a small drill up the hole in the centre, bottom of the cap to destroy the valve would do the job.

Often in the end of the actual pump housing rather than the motor. Possibly covered by a sticker that says warrantee void if damaged.

I am getting the impression that many people think a higher pressure and a higher volume pump is the way to go. Unless you have a very good reason, I don't understand this. As long as the shower is adequate, I doubt you need much over 20PSI unless you have stupid small plumbing. I ran mine at 15psi for years, and some of that was in about3/8" bore plastic. Likewise, a lower output pump would go a long way to reducing cycling because the outlet flow is more likely to be greater than pump delivery.

If the leak is from the handrail fixings, I very much doubt the above will work for any length of time. The chances are the rail is a little loose, so will work as it's used and split any seal applied externally. The only longer term cure is rail off and get good fixings.

Still too close, a pressure pulse as you turn the tap off will jump the valve off its seat, I bet your valve is jumping. I would set the pressure back by at least 5psi

I don't think the footbridge over the Oxford summit near the radio mast has a narrows.

That is just an accounting fiddle. I am fine with them selling abroad, in fact I welcome it, It's when they sell to commercial operators in the UK and then shut the people who paid for them to be made out unless hey pay again. The way the BBC does this sort of thing stinks.

UK TV that the BBC had a significant shareholding in when it was set up is the group that shows most programs that were made for the BBC at the expense of the BBC licence fee payers. Apart from the adverts, I suppose it's fair enough on Drama and Yesterday, but the subscription service Gold I find an affront to those who paid to get the programmes made. I believe the BBC has sold off a lot of its shareholding once UKTV had got their content, but can't be sure about that. If t's true it makes me think palms had been greased.

I bet it's not the BBC doing the chasing, my money is on SERCO etc.

My guess it is a "special" for the owner mixed up to match the colour of their car or some such. I fear the only way to get even a tolerable match is to cut back and polish a patch of the boat, and then use a colour fan to get as close as possible. The fans are expensive although I got mine for the three common paint systems during a sale RAL, BS4000? and BS 2xx? (not sure of the BS suffix numbers without looking). Regrettably you are too far away to borrow mine. I suspect that it may be easier to rub the lot down and repaint it in a common colour that is near enough.

I don't see that. When they (electronic, zero volt drop diodes) turn on they make a low resistance (claimed to be zero) between the common and the B1 and B2 connectors. I don't see why just C and B1 (or B2) can't be used as a switch. The issue I don't fully grasp is how you energies them to turn on when you want them to. They all seem to have a thin energise connection, so I think that could be fed via a remote switch. The only problem I see is the currant handling capacity so probably not a lot of use with a large inverter but should be good for 100 amps or more. If it were me, I would be looking for a quality contactor (big relay).

Just a thought, could an active electronic split charge "diode" be used in this way? Just use the common and one battery connection and then switch the pos or neg of the activate coble as appropriate.

That suggest it is out of date paper work, so I am not sure the contract is even worth the paper It's written on. Shysters comes to mind. It's probably one of the marinas BWM sold.

Are you sure its not BMF or British Marine as it's now called? That is a trade body that offers mediation, I think, but suspect it will usually side with the business that pays it membership fees. I would write to the brokerage stating that THEY have cancelled the sale to you, requesting the return of your deposit within 14 days, and then cancel the survey if you can. If you can't cancel take them to the small claims court (online application and not that expensive) to recover your out-of-pocket expenses. Then name and shame. There will be another boat out there for you, and you may have escaped from possible future expenses in relation to the RCD/RCR that may not have been complied with during the build.