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Tony Brooks

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Posts posted by Tony Brooks

  1. He said that it could run on waste oil but doing so is illegal, however I don't know where he is based. If he thinks it is a good idea to run one on waste oil rather him than me, such heaters seam prone to carbonning on diesel, goodness knows what they will do on waste oil. I think the UK might have regulations about burning waste oil on pollution grounds.

  2. and I think the fitting that should go into the filter head was "different" as well. I recall it used a plain pipe and a sleeve nut with a taper at the end that clamped down onto the pipe to seal when tightened. I am not sure some filter heads did not come with an AF thread, but can't be sure.

  3. 5 minutes ago, YSA said:

     

    the valve was almost closed - it was rotated almost all the way clockwise, and I turned it anti-clockwise. 

     

    I've just tightened the nut gland and will have a look and see if the leak is better now that the pump is turned off.

    tightening the nut gland has made the valve much harder to turn - have i put the spanner on the wrong bit?!

    I doubt it, That is what I would expect when you tighten a gland, maybe you over tightened it a bit.

  4. Oh dear, I have had the gate fall off when fully closed, if yours has done that it would badly restrict flow into the pump. that leads to low flow and noise. The low flow will mean it runs for longer. Not sure how to advise you to proceed apart from change the valve, but to do that you really need to drain the tank.

  5. 1 hour ago, BrumSaint said:

    Thank you for the responses, but unfortunately there is not a clear opinion whether the gauge measures at level A or B so I'm not much further forward.

     

    I thought it had been adequately explained so I will have another go.

     

    The fuel in the pipe dipping into the tank has weight so is trying to pull the fuel out of the pipe back into the tank, but as there is no way fort air to get into the top of the bend the fuel will stay put and just try to pull the fuel up the down pipe and into the tank

     

    At the same time the fuel in the down pipe running to the filter also has weight so it is trying to pull fuel out of the tank, but as there is no outlet no fuel can flow.

     

    So we have a weight fuel in the relatively short down pipe in the tank pulling one way and the weight of the fuel in the longer pipe pulling the other so one will try to cancle out the other but as the down pipe in the tank is shorter the weight of fuel in it will be less so the resultant "force" will be equivalent of level B as long as the engine is not running.

  6. 12 minutes ago, YSA said:

     

    I've tried to find the nut, but there's nothing that seems to be able to be tightened! Which bit do you mean exactly?

     

    Not sure that's something I would be confident enough to do, can I get a normal plumber to do it, or would it have to be a marine plumber? (is that a thing?!)

    Thanks for the replies everyone, I've put a towel underneath it for now to collect the drips, and it's behind the stove so hopefully that has helped in terms of drying things out! I'll find someone to change the valve.

     

    1.The nut, it is the bit that you have circled but  in doing so the circle has obscured certain details. I suspect that your valve is sealed by an O ring, rather than a gland packing so can't be tightened.

     

    2. Anyone familiar with plumbing should be able to do it. I suspect that unless the unions have become corroded it is not a difficult job, Undo the compression fitting where the copper pipe goes into the elbow at the bottom, undo the union where the copper pipe enters the top of the valve, unscrew the elbow and straight union and fit them in the new valve with some form of thread sealant.  Even of the new vale is slightly longer or shorter than the existing one it looks as if the bottom copper pipe is long enough to flex to allow for it. If not the top pipe may need cutting to suit the dimensions. Don't know where you are but any boatyard should have someone to do the job.

  7. 13 hours ago, David Mack said:

    As Jen says, flowing fuel may induce a pressure drop, so the most accurate reading will be obtained with the engine not running.

     

    I don't think there is any "may" about it because there is a filter between the tank and sensor. That, plus the fuel returned to the tank on most diesels should ensure a pressure drop of some sort across the filter, but as said, once the engine is stopped the reading should be consistent, but possibly not accurate unless carefully sited height wise, or calibrated.

  8. I am far from sure it is a good idea to advise Helicoiling the lift pump or filter head bosses if they have split. I would certainly say it would be bad practice.  If they have split then a new pump body or filter head is the way to go in my opinion. Otherwise tightening the fitting into the Helicoil is likely to just expand the split.

  9. 1 minute ago, SweetPromise said:

    I agree. I've since contacted someone who appears to specialise in listers which I think is a far better option! 

     

    Good, from memory I think the SLs used imperial nut sizes, probably AF rather than BSF/Whit. That means three sets of spanners needed, metric AF & Whitworth to match all engines properly.

  10. 2 minutes ago, SweetPromise said:

    Funny you mention this, the mechanic did say something about this and didn't have the right spanners for the job as a result.

     

    For goodness sake, what type of inland boat mechanic who does not carry set of imperial spanners as well as metric ones. I know most car mechanics, especially younger ones, probably don't have or need imperial spanners but a lot of older boat engines use imperial spanners. If the mechanic is not a car or truck one doing you a favor it may be time to look for another one.

    • Greenie 1
  11. As long as it is not a bypass stat and it has the "standard" sized mounting flange I think a BMC mini one will be the same.

    1 minute ago, Mike Adams said:

     

    I think that one is a bypass stat so the mini one would not be any good.

  12. 19 minutes ago, blackrose said:

    Thanks. I can't see it on their Isuzu canal engine parts list. I'm amazed something as simple as a thermostat isn't a generic part available on eBay.

     

    I think it is, have you taken the old one to a motor factors? Don't bother with the likes of Halfords because they will want to know what make and model of car.

  13. 25 minutes ago, Peugeot 106 said:

    With the tank on the floor the coolant is sucked through the cap up and in. With the tank above the engine gravity will help and you don’t need to worry about losing vacuum. But if it leaks you will lose coolant That’s my take on it but it would be great if someone (where are you Tracy and Tony?) would chip in with knowledge rather than my supposition. 

    The returning coolant returns through the small valved hole in the bottom of the cap. Are sure that is OK. Try poking it open from underneath. If that is stuck nothing will get Back into the manifold. Radiator caps aren’t expensive. Make sure you get one with a rubber gasket and the same pressure rating (written on top)

    good luck

     

    Basically yes, you have it. However, although there is no signs of it in the photo my guess is, as has been said several times already, that the top of the cap is not making an air & depression tight seal onto filler neck. It needs a filler with a rubber dick under the cap. Although for canal boats pressurization is probably not vital I would be reluctant to run unpressurized if there was any chance I was going to fight a river, especially with so many boats with undersized skin tanks. If you get localized boiling on the hot spots in the head the stem will expel coolant before the temperature gauge shows a problem.

     

    There are two valves in a pressure cap, the "main" spring and the larger diameter seal is the pressure valve, but a smaller one in the center that often uses part of the main seal is the vacuum valve. So a bad main seal can effect both. I am not referring to the rubber seal that I think the OP needs under the cap. I have never known the vacuum valve to clog or jamb shut, their hole may be 6mm in diameter with the valve rod passing up the middle, so to a degree semi cleaning.

  14. IF he tried to tight the adapter into the filter head or the lift pump body then they look tapered so he may have split the aluminum bosses.

     

    If the lift pump can be fed by gravity then make sure the rubber seal under the lift pump cap and the soft washer around the center bolt is not leaking.

     

    I think all the pipes are sealed to the adapter by olive and the one on the filter head and one of the lift pump ones look as if the olives may have been crushed. I don't understand why a proper olive seal needs PTFE tape. It looks like a bit of bodging has been going on. It might be a good idea to inspect the olives.

  15. 30 minutes ago, nicknorman said:

    2/ The mains earth hull connection should be adjacent to the battery negative one. I don't think this is too critical but it is specified in the relvant British Standard.

     

     

    And that opens up another whole can of worms. Is this oat within the scope of the RCD/RCR? If so the OP should have access to and be familiar with all the BS/ISO that apply.

     

    I don't want to get into a discussion about if Alan is correct that major work brings the boat within scope of the RCD/RCR but fiting a shorline and messing with the  DC circuits just might.

  16. Reading your post, trying to understand it and the diagram I would suggest that for your own and others safety you employ a professional.

     

    From what I can gather it seems that you negative battery wiring is not the common way, but probably works. Normally the engine battery and the domestic bank negatives are joined at the batteries, not via a bus bar.

     

    A negative bus bar is usually part of the domestic wiring, although some  marinisers (Beta) use an engine negative stud affair.

     

    If you are saying the only negative bond is to the engine block then as long as the engine is NOT flexibly mounted and bolted down onto the steel beds it is probably OK. If it is flexibly mounted a bond needs to go between the engine block and the bed. Unless you can guarantee the whole hull is at both banks' negative potential a short circuit may well not blow the fuse or trip a circuit breaker.

     

    As long as the AC "earth" is bonded to the hull it really does not matter where it is, although convention prefers it close to but not on the same stud as the DC earth bond point.

     

    Your diagram seems to show a socket from the inverter and a separate socket from the shoreline. That is not usual, your inverter seems to show an AC shoreline input. That suggest it is a combi-unit so no need for the separate sockets. If it is not a combi-unit one normally uses some form of change over to select shoreline or inverter output - switch, relay, or wander plug.

     

    I have no idea why you seem to have a mains plug feeding the RCD. It seems to leave both sockets unprotected. Visit this diagram again and show the three conductors as separate lines. As shown and without guessing your intention the galvanic isolator will do nothing. As I said you may do well employ a professional. Mains can and does kill.

     

     

     

     

     

    • Greenie 1
  17. The gassing, especially if you get the dangerous rotten egg smell, in the circumstances you describe is almost certainly caused by internal shorts developing in a cell or cells. First the cells gas, then as they dry out produce hydrogen sulphide, eventually they dry out, spark internally and ignite the hydrogen being produced.  At that pint the cell lid splits, the case may fracture and the acid in other cells sprays all over the place.

     

    If any individual cells get hotter than the rest, are dryer than the rest, the charge time gets longer and the discharge time gets shorter all indicate shorting cells, as is a higher charging rate maintained for longer than usual. All indicate the battery or ideally the whole bank needs replacing ASAP.

     

    Not caused by short circuits but by sulphation that results in a loss of capacity, if you see the ends of the battery case bowing it is time to start saving for new ones before they start shorting in the cells.

    • Greenie 2
  18. 86 is normally either the feed or the negative for the coil. 85 is the other one, so if you have 86 to negative you should find battery voltage on 85 when you energise the glow plugs.  30 is the positive feed for the contacts, and 87 the normally open other part of the contact circuit. I would still bridge 30 and  87 to prove the relay is faulty and not something else but not do mush more as it is still under warrantee.

     

    Battery voltage on 30 is no proof it is not a wiring fault (excess resistance) unless the glow pugs are being powered. Golden rule - never take an off load voltage to be significant, they  too easily confuse.

     

    If you decide to source one locally be wary although they may look the same many readily available relays are only rated at a round 10 amps and you need at leats a 40 amp one. Both Bizzard and myself would prefer to use a starter solenoid for that duty because of the current. but you can't go messing with a new installation.

    • Greenie 1
  19. 8 minutes ago, PCSB said:

    All useful info, ta.

     

    I have a dc clamp meter (does ac too). Just checked voltage drop and there is none. Clamped onto various points onto +ve feed and saw a very small current appx 1.8A, when ignition in the ON position, when switching to glow plug, no change.

     

    Tested voltage at the battery, 13.2v rested, tested voltage at the first glow plug terminal and it was 0. Traced the feed wire back and found a relay, a 12v 70A job. Getting o volts from the output from the relay when switched to glow plug position. Tested the input +ve and that was showing 12.8v when in the glow plug position.

     

    I think this means the relay is shot, but happy to be corrected. If so I will swap it out.

     

    Probably, but if you link the relay power connections (30 & 87) it will bypass the contacts, in fact a a big spark as you make that connection will more or less tell you the relay is at fault.

    • Greenie 1
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