Tony Brooks
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Posts posted by Tony Brooks
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29 minutes ago, Gybe Ho said:
wonder if the OP has considered that epoxy paint is brittle and would not last on a substrate with any movement.
I suspect that is very much dependant upon the formulation, and if it was that brittle it would flake off or craze around hull impacts rather than more or less just at the site of the impact. 12 ton of boat making a point impact is, I would have thought, likely to flex the panel to a significant extent.
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I suspect that they employ enough people to keep them fully employed with breakdowns in summer and servicing in winter and then sub during bust times closer to base and at the far reaches of the system. I think they employed an engineer for the Thames (and probably Wey, south GU, and Lee system) who worked from home.
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17 minutes ago, LadyG said:
My understanding is that RCR do not employ the people who do the callout.
They certainly did have employed engineers when I was running courses for them, but also subbed some of the work, especially in areas further from their base.
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9 hours ago, David Mack said:
My thought too. The hull will be somewhat more prone to getting dented there, but that will only be an aesthetic issue, not structural.
My only negative was that a good bang and dent might damage the heater if it is that close to the skin.
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6 hours ago, wakey_wake said:
Now I look at the Marine16 DBT with some respect, I give it the full disposable gloves / handwashing after use, and I'm not having that stuff anywhere near my cakehole. 🍰 (beerhole?)
So get a syphon pump for less than £10
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25 minutes ago, jonathanA said:
The colours in the wiring harness are most likely the same there's just some electronic jiggery pokey to use leds instead of bulbs. Shouldn't really matter to you as you just need to connect the right panel wire to the corresponding engine wire (if your lucky)
And you have all the Info to do that between the two diagrams you have.
This ^^^^^^^
Basically the pcb is causing LEDs to act as a filament bulb. How about a photo showing the wiring where it connects to the pcb so we can check the wiring colours against the diagram, or are you saying nothing is connected to it, or possibly only a white and a black cable.
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1 minute ago, Bryan M said:
The brass head of the dipstick on my PRM 150 gearbox is a bit burred off and none of spanners or sockets that I have seem to fit it very well. Can any one tell me what size spanner should fit it please?
What is known as a flank drive socket should work on a burred hexagon. Just measure across the flats to get the size.
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1 hour ago, Nick H said:
.... ask and the internet delivers! After a pretty extensive search I've settled on a lovely Norman 23 (within my budget and level of work required) and thought I was the only one thinking it could have a simple deck extension platform @ the rear for bbqing or storing bikes etc.
My thoughts were similar although probably more temporary and lift on/off @ a home mooring. I was thinking of a 2x2m platform made from something like ultralight stage deck mounted on a lightweight frame. I'd convert the rear bench to storage and mount 30%ish over this, with angled beams to support the frame slotting into permanent brackets on the rear hull above the waterline. My main concerns (so far) are strain on the hull structure at rear brackets and weight distribution.
My initial thoughts for a safe approach were;i. Epoxy aluminium plate to hull with brackets welded to this
ii. A very simple counterweight like a lined builders bag with a rigid neck immersed off the bow to counter any change in pitch... (this needs more thought, but I'm pretty sure I can't snap the spine of the boat with the weights involved)
Anyhow... if you're still on the forum be great to see how you did it?
Glad I'm not the only one!!
If by rear bulkhead you mean the transom then I would not trust aluminium glued to the outside of the transom. I would use similar aluminium section inside the transom and bolted through above the waterline with a larger person standing on the expansion.
If the boat uses an outboard be aware that any structure should not box exhaust fumes in when idling or at slow speed. The motor won't like that. At higher speeds the exhaust bubbles will be behind the boat when they surface.
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29 minutes ago, Michael Siggers said:
Thank you @Tony Brooks and @mrsmelly
Very useful information and helpful. Attached is a very short video which gives the approximate pitch. It is intermittent though and not continuous.
https://youtu.be/GSynCGIGUDY?si=ies6nnJZM83r5Jtm
Checked Engine and Gearbox Oil today and all OK. Checked the Alternator belt and was a little loose so adjusted that.
Definitely not the instrument panel so all.good there.
Nothing touching the flywheel as I don't keep anything in the Engine Bay. Plenty of room, so could do, but just always envisage something dropping where it shouldn't.
Need to double check the Aquadrive but initial checks seem OK.
So, hoping it was the alternator belt. I'll find out tomorrow morning as its going into dry dock.
On a side note, did discover a very slight fuel leak from the Fuel Injector Pump. Cleaning job and closer inspection to be done. That looks like one complicated and expensive bit of kit!
Mike
Standard Bosch rotary pump, except only 3 cylinders, any competent diesel pump specialist should be able to fix it for you if needed. However, on mine I had a persistent leak from the fuel inlet banjo union. As it is on the top f the pump fuel was seeping out and the dripping off the bottom. I tried new copper washers, fibre washers, but I did not stop it until I used a par of Dowty washers on the banjo. If your leak turns out to be there make sure the mating faces o the pump body, banjo, and banjo bolt face are not burred, distorted or scored. If someone has used a wrong spanner or cocked the right one, the hexagon face can get burred.
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4 hours ago, wakey_wake said:
Seems like the main limitations would be the apparent lack of any thermostat
I wonder if they are designed so they can't get any hotter than say 80C, or you are expected to use a cylinder stat.
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57 minutes ago, cheesegas said:
Sorry, I was referring to the DC fridges with my 30 amp figure - I haven't measured that of a mains fridge as it's a bit more difficult.
I am not saying you are wrong because you have actual measurements, but wonder how your scope stored the values and if any sampling rate might hide very short duration current peaks. I have never had access to a very high sampling rate storage scope.
Some years ago, so an old Danfoss 12V compressor, I had dealings with a boat that was virtually new which had fridge problems. The cable size looked a bit suspect, size wise, for the run length to me so having ruled out battery voltage, suggested it was likely to be a wiring size issue. This brought moans from a much advertised professional inland marine boat harness maker because he had "worked the size out" and as far as I can gather he used his own methods and not the recommended 1sq mm CCSA for each metre of the outward run and the same size for the return. He mentioned using 70 amps. Then Danfoss got involved and were adamant that it was undersized wiring causing the issues. I don't know how it was resolved, but suspect the low voltage cut out setting on the wander lead was reduced.
That 70 amps is where I got the 30 times the running current from, but I have no idea if that figure was correct or not.
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1 hour ago, IanD said:
That's pretty poor, the best modern 230Vac fridges or freezers use around 135kWh/year
Which is where I think the OP got his 130W from, a misunderstanding of the label.
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1 hour ago, mrsmelly said:
Could it be the drive plate?
Not on a Bukh DV36 because they use two metal spiders with a rubber web thing between them. If by some miracle the rubber rind with blocks around the outer edge that fit between the spiders had broken apart and fallen out, I think it would make one hell of a clatter, especially at idle out of gear.
The rubber thing on mine had the faces of the blocks glazed and gone really hard, but no noises from it.
Image:
On other engines that would be a very likely cause.
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1 hour ago, Shandybass said:
Now I did buy an electric lift pump, but I haven't fitted it yet. I was under the impression that I needed to install a safety switch teed into the oil pressure sender line, but sorry looking at this now I'm wondering if I can do it electrically via one of the alternator signals?
Do it the simple way, feed it from the ignition on terminal, probably daisy-chained to the + terminal on the gauges and warning lamps. You could use the IG lead on the alternator, but I suspect that may be a sense lead and a pulsing lift pump MIGHT (not will) affect that.
1 hour ago, Shandybass said:My main issue is figuring out which terminals on the back if the ignition are which, so I can provide the correct feeds etc.
The easiest way is to use a multi-meter set to ohms or preferably buzz.
Look at the photo, one terminal is black and has never had a cable on it, so ignore that. Then there is another 10mm blade that shows scratches where the female part had been pushed over it. My GUESS is that this is likely to be the + input, but we can't be sure.
The relay has a white wire on it (ign. controlled +) and I think a brown one hidden at the back of the photo. Brown = batery +, so that is all as I would expect, so we can now do some tests
Connect one meter wire to the WHITE cable terminal on the relay (push a nail between the plastic cover and the actual terminal to get a good contact).
Touch the other cable to all the terminals on the back of the switch. Only the one with the white wires should buzz or show almost zero ohms.
Turn the switch to the ignition ON position and touch all the terminals. One of the large blades should beep or show zero ohms. Note which one and change the wire on the relay to that terminal. Turn the switch OFF
Step around all the other switch terminals with cables on them and NONE should buzz.
Now turn the switch on and step around the cables, only the ones with the white wires on should buzz.
Turn the switch to the glow plug position and step around again, the extra one that buzzes is the glow plug terminal/wire.
Turn the switch to start and step around again, the extra one that bizzes is the "energise starter solenoid" termial/wire.
I don't think Beta have a stop position on their installation so, you now know which terminal does what. I would get a marker pen and mark up the switch.
It is far quicker and easier to do that to read or write how.
PS, if you had the diagram for the panel, rather than the engine, it would give you the info you need.
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1 hour ago, BEngo said:
I think you have collected an extra zero.
My 12V fridge ( Danfoss BD35 works) when running draws 4.3 A or 52W, according to the Fogstar BMS. It runs about 50 % in the day, cos the door gets opened, and about 25% at night. That is about 50Ah every day. A freezer needs to be colder so will use more.
I did say I was suspicious of that 130 watts, but taking it as correct, plus the dead rough easy to work out rule of thumb that you divide 240V wattage by 1o to get the 12V battery draw via an inverter (which would assume an 80% inverter efficiency including the current to work itself) gives 13 amps. Another assumption of 30% duty cycle gives an 8 hour run per day that gives 8X13 = 104 Ah, so yes, an extra zero. I thought it looked unexpectedly high, but could not for the life of me see where the mistake was. It does seem to accord with your measured fridge figures to give the OP a rough consumption figure.
9 minutes ago, IanD said:And you can do all that because you have the free time to do it. Foe some others this isn't the case and a freezer is a lot more useful, or even essential -- for example it means you can cook a bigger batch of food at a time (same time/effort) and freeze several portions for later.
To add to that, those of us with a garden can store excess seasonal produce for later use, and we know exactly what chemicals have been used on the crop - more that you can ever know from online suppliers.
20 minutes ago, LadyG said:the food is straight from the distribution warehouse,
Hm, maybe if Ocado, but otherwise have you not seen the pickers picking orders off supermarkets shelves. I suspect an easy way of shifting short date stock at full price.
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1 hour ago, umpire111 said:
Many tx, that’s useful, it’s a victron inverter. What sort of initial drawer is there when a freezer starts and for how long?
Extrapolating from 12V DC Danfoss compressors about 30+ times higher than the running current for a fraction of a second or two.
I am suspicious of that 130W figure, mains fridges and freezers are usually shown as an annual kWh consumption. 130W at mains voltage equates to a tad over half an amp. Via an inverter assume it will draw about 13 amps from the battery which allows for an inefficient inverter. Assuming a 30% duty cycle that equates to about 1000 Ah per day (hope my maths is correct). What Bengo said.
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Get your ear against the instrument panel to check it is not the charge/oil pressure/overheat buzzer sounding. If it is, the more usual cause is a faulty sender or possibly a loose alternator belt.
If it is not that, I can't think what else it could be as long as you have enough oil in the gearbox. Also, possibly a dry thrust bearing or CV joints in the Aquadrive shaft coupling that Bukhs are often paired with.
Make sure the clamp holding the shaft half coupling in place is tight and with no signs of it moving on the shaft - this is not likely, but worth checking.
Any cans fallen off the uxter plate, so one is not touching the flywheel (for others - the Bukhs have an unenclosed flywheel at the front of the engine).
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Thanks, that is indeed a six diode alternator.
The terminal marked:
IG needs a feed when the ignition is ON
L is connected to the warning lamp
P feeds pulses to a rev counter if you have one
and the large stud in B+ and one way or another connects to the battery positive.
As your alternator is like this the engine alternator wiring on the panel should be correct.
As @jonathanA says, get hold of the wiring diagram.
If you do change for a nine diode alternator the terminals will be:
B+ to battery positive
B-, if you have one, to battery negative or alternator case/engine block/starter negative
D+ from waning lamp
W pulsed feed to any tachometer.
The domestic alternator wiring on the panel is likely to be set up for this, but the wiring harness may not be.
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Well, I can see a terminal marked 50A which is a standard DIN code, but in this case I don't think your system uses it. If 50A is marked than perhaps with a bit of cleaning you will see the markings for the other terminals, e.g.30, 15, 50, 75 etc.
As Nick says that relay is almost certainly redundant on a single alternator engine, and so will be the wiring unless it is needed to make it easier to connect your alternator.
The PCB with the warning lamps is likely to contain diodes so one buzzer can service all warning lamps and if the lamps are LEDs or very low wattage it may also have parallel resistors on it.
Beta seem to use the old British vehicle wiring colour codes in the main, so that gives a bit of a guide.
In view of Nick saying he thinks your alternator might be a six diode machine I think you need to either send a photo of the back of the alternator showing the terminal identification or just tell us what the identifying characters are, then we can tell you which it is and tell you how to wire it up. If it is a different number of diode alternators to the one the panel was designed for it may be easier to simply run new wires to the alternator, but we will advise.
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16 hours ago, MtB said:
That task has now been broadly achieved and in my opinion, it would be reasonable now to go back to a single lock, keeping it in step with say, wages.
I tend to agree, certainly the 3% if it is higher than wages or inflation should go - and I would affect me. Unfortunately governments can influence inflation and so one way of lessening the pension bill would be to run at a higher inflation, but only increase pensions by wage growth, and as we have seen over the last decade wage growth does not always keep pace with inflation.
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6 minutes ago, thematt said:
The primary filter is brand new. The guage provided by racor has an indication mark when the filter should be replaced. I did it before that interval with the new fuel tank. I left the secondary as it only had 100 hours on it. So I shoulda said: Primary filter is new, and secondary should be in good shape. It's worth a look. I think with fuel supply the issues should be consistent rather than going away once at temp right?
So you are saying that the depression in the filter is within Racor's limits.
I notice on the photo that the pipe that would normally come from the injector leak off unions seems to have an open end with paper below it. Did you twist that pipe over 180 degrees and remove the leak off banjo section to help in getting the head off?
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17 minutes ago, MtB said:
Filters are in good shape and vacuum guage show good vacuum on a fresh filter
Where was/is this vacuum gauge connected and what else was going on to produce the vacuum?
If the inlet of a filter produced a vacuum or even a depression when running It would suggest a blockage on the tank side. If the gauge was on the outlet side when running then it would suggest a blocked fliter.
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1 hour ago, Peugeot 106 said:
I had a problem where a tiny amount of oil was escaping though a bolt thread on a crankcase. The tapping was a through tapping and the oil was following the threads. Threadlock solved this. Bearing in mind that I have no idea how combustion gas could get onto the head studs or familiarity with BMC engines and can’t claim much experience could putting a small bit of thread lock on the offending stud (the bit that threads into the block) be worth a try when you reassemble. I’m assuming you could use a low strength threadlock so that you can get the stud out again if you need to
It certainly would not hurt to do that, but the drilling for the oil feed to the rocker shaft is at the opposite end of the block, I think, so that seems less likely, but never say never.
The offending stud is close to the pushrod hole, but unless the crankcase breather was horribly blocked, I can't see that having any bearing on the bubbles.
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To the best of my knowledge PRVs are not fitted in car fuel tank breathers, or anywhere else, save the lift pump.
Car makers will not fit equipment which is not needed and, as has been said, the high fuel turn over in most vehicles makes bug precautions necessary. There are regulations that limit the amount of hydrocarbons emitted to the atmosphere, but as far as fuel tanks are concerned this is not a problem for diesels, but is for petrol, so nowadays they fit a sophisticated breather system involving charcoal filters and venting to the inlet via a "pulsed" valve operated by the engine ECU. I am rather rusty on this, so things may have moved on.
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in New to Boating?
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Is that not where the trailer braking system comes into the vehicle v trailer weight regs, but I suspect a Marland 20 on a trailer would only have the trailer equipped with overrun brakes - at the best.