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Tony Brooks

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Posts posted by Tony Brooks

  1. looks like a Borg Warner Velvet drive to me. It uses ATF (Dexron). Check the oil level. The filler has a dip stick under it and it is the square headed plug between there cable n the left and the silver gear cable.

     

    Make sure the silver gear cable is actually moving the control and if t is, disconnect it and try the control lever by hand.

     

    If neither work it may be the drive pate but unless you have had chattering noises and a noisy drive take up  over the last months a box rebuild is more likely. When the box s split I seem to remember a fibre mesh oil strainer as per car auto boxes and that MIGHT be blocked.

     

     

  2. 32 minutes ago, rgriffiths said:

    Sorry - I was meaning the mesh filters in the lifter and fuel pump as suggested by the injector company I contacted.

     

    A blocked filter in the lift pump is, in my view, unlikely to cause a misfire but may cause a loss of power/speed,. An air leak into the lift pump from the large  O ring in the cap or the soft washer around the cap bolt just might cause a misfire but more likely the engine would rev up and stop.

     

    The strainer in the injection pump rarely causes a problem in a half decently maintained engine but if it did partially block the engine would most likely rev itself up a bit.

  3. Just now, springy said:

    Starter Battery Isolator failed (or off), Starter Battery connections, If there is a multi pin plug in the engine wiring harness they can also cause a variety of problems.

     

    beaten to it by Tony

     

    springy

     

    Yes, but I forgot the master switch - especially if it has a red plastic removable key.

  4. Drity/loose start battery terminals. Big multi-plug in the engine loom, probably near the starter. try pulling apart and pushing it back together.  Inline fuse, again hidden away near the starter blown/dirty. Remember that on the majority of boats the engine start and domestic batteries are separate systems. Good domestics does not mean the start battery is good.

     

     

    • Greenie 2
  5. I wonder how much backlash you have in the camshaft and injector pump drive. If only does it at idle I would suspect excess backlash. This could be a stretched timing chain and worn tensioner or, if you have not been cleaning the injector drive lubricator and strainer, worn pump drive and/or camshaft skew gears.

     

    I don't know how confident you feel about taking the pump off and checking how much play there is in the drive or taking the timing cover off for a look-see.

  6. 1 hour ago, Mike Tee said:

    Thanks for the comments - my meanderings were directed at ending up with a calorifier for onboard hot water. Probably hugely expensive for not a huge improvement!

     

    I think that you have a heat exchanger (indirect raw water) cooled engine and those are usually more than capable of running a calorifier and it would also tend keep the engine cooler while the calorifier heats up.

    • Greenie 1
  7. 1 hour ago, vmax666 said:

    also thinking about the possibility of hiring out during the peak times to get some of the running costs back. Good idea or bad ?

     

     

    In that area for prolonged cruising you may need three licenses. Environment Agency, Middle level Commissioners and CaRT. The EA and CaRT one can be combined into one Gold License. Then there is the one from the Cam Commissioners as well.

     

    To hire out legally your boat needs to be built and regularly examined to a different standard , more demanding, than a private boat, will need more expensive licence(s), different, and more expensive insurance, plus whatever "operating base" requirements the licensing authority. Then there is the question of how you cope with the inevitable breakdowns. It is generally considered not to be viable. There has been at least one case of someone hiring "under the radar" loosing their boat.

     

  8. The reason no one will tell you the hp is that (from memory) Newage gave 3 hp figures. Continuous, intermittent with limitations to period and frequency, and maximum. The there is the fact that most displacement boats prop for maximum toruqe, not maximum speed so the engine is prevented form reaching the maximum hp speed.

     

    With the flywheel housing and front engine mounts shown on the video that is  a very old 1.5 produced long before the 1.8 was even thought of. Apart from that the timing cover and injector pump position is correct for a 1.5 and wrong for a  1.8.

     

    If you initial choice for a 1.5 was based on what that engineer told you be aware that the 1.5 has a three bearing crank plus a torsional oscillation damper to prevent it snapping itself. I don't know the Ford unit in detail but I fully expect it to be a five bearing crank without a torsional oscillation damper. I would not like to use a 1.5 these days for long distance cruising a long way from the UK, properly overhauled or not.

    • Greenie 1
  9. 1 hour ago, Pierre Thomas said:

    What’s a land? 

     

     A land is a piece of a stricture that stick out, usually related to locating something, so in this case it would be a sticky out bit that fits the hole in the middle of the multi-groove pulley so it has to be central and run true.

  10. 1 minute ago, BEngo said:

    I would look to run a  flat water pump pulley on the back of the poly V belt driving the large alternator.  It looks like there is some structure to support a pump  and if you position it right you will get enough extra belt wrap on both existing pulleys to counterbalance the extra load on the belt.  You will need a longer belt and the layout will need to be accurate, so a certain amount of scale drawing is needed once you have worked out the right size pump pulley to give the flow rate needed.

     

    A ritzy solution would use a double sided belt and a poly v pulley on the new pump.

    N

     

     

    I agree but would he get enough wrap on the new pump pulley? Just a thought. I think this may be the easiest way of doing it. Otherwise as even a large Jabsco pump takes a comparatively modest load I think those three allen screws could be used to drive an extra crankshaft pulley without issue. It would need a land to centralise it on the existing pulley I suspect. seeing the size of the crankshaft pulley on the 1.5s with a Jabsco pump (very small) I don't think here would be much load at all

  11. From the Wikipedia entry for the Rother class RNLI Boat:

     

    Twin 52 hp Ford Thorneycroft 250 four-cylinder diesels gave a maximum speed of 8 knots

     

    Does not sound much like a 30 to 35 HP BMC 1.5 to me, but we all know Wikipedia cam be wrong but in this case I doubt it.

    • Haha 1
  12. As no on else with better experience of Kubota has replied I will give my thoughts.

     

    I think there are three possibilities, all of which depend upon the spillage of liquid or condensation.

     

    The injector nozzle can get very hot so:

    That may expand air trapped in the threads that expands and is expelled upwards through liquid that has collected around the thread. This should stop after the engine is up to temperature or when the liquid has evaporated.

    It could be liquid that has worked down the threads boiling and bubbling out upwards. This again should stop after a good run.

     

    It might be that the seal between injector and cylinder head is leaking slightly but as I don't know the Kubota arrangement I can't suggest what and how. I don't think it will do any harm in the short term but might if left indefinitely.  There may be a taper metal to metal seat and if so removing the injector,  scrupulously cleaning both halves of the seat, and refitting to the correct torque may be all that is required. It may involve one or more copper washers and in that case removing the injector, cleaning the steel faces, fitting new washers, and tighting to the correct torque is likely to work. In either case ignoring it for a long time just might burn a slot in the seat so it would never seal.

     

    I would suggest that you give it a good run and see if it cures itself. In fact it might even stop as the engine warms up and expands. It this seems to be the case it would be a good idea to tighten it to the correct torque.

     

    Happy to be told this is rubbish by one of our engineer members who is working on Kubotas.

     

    BEngo posted as I corrected my post.

     

     

     

    • Greenie 1
  13. 10 minutes ago, jhodgski said:

    Hiya,

     

    My injection pump is leaking quite badly, so I'm swapping it for the one from my old engine. However, I didn't think to get a new gasket.

     

    Would I be OK to use the old gasket, or am I better with some blue hylomar? Or should I definitely get a new gasket?

     

    Thanks in advance, 🙂

    James

     

    You can get gasket paper and make your own but my guess is that the old one, even if it is broken a little, with a thin smear of Hylomar on both sides. There should be very little oil around the pump to adaptor plate joint,

  14. 12 hours ago, Jim Batty said:

    Not sure if this is too daft or not. But it's another energy source, that was used by a guy on his narrowboat I met in the springtime: a spiral wind generator that was demountable when cruising. His was about 700mm (?) high and started generating at about windspeed 2mph. It seems there's reinforced fibreglass models out there. No idea what they cost. 

     

    Something like this, used in conjunction with a beefy battery bank and solar in summer?:

    http://www.engelecenergy.com/spiral-blades-vertical-axis-small-wind-turbine-generator-en-600w-xl-vawt.html

     

    Take some time investigating this. Compare the data on the vendor's site, which will be almost certainly optimistic, with this site:

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beaufort_scale

    Then think about where your location's average wind speed will be. It is not the wind speed that it starts generating that is important, the important bit is the speed at which it is producing sufficient output for your needs.

  15. 1 hour ago, steve.sharratt said:

    I did try dialling back the pressure but not much difference. I will be measuring up to squeeze in a calorifier over the weekend.  Thanks for all of the feedback. 

     

    I don't think the advice was to reduce he pressure but to reduce the flow rate from the tap so the water in in the heat exchanger for longer so it should get warmer.

  16. 13 minutes ago, dmr said:

     

    I am 99.9% sure its sucking dissolved air out of the diesel rather than an air through a leak, just don't understand why it worked ok (ish) for so many years.

    The fuel filters also play a part, fine for 50-100 hours with a new filter (tried two different manufacturers) then it failed (consistently) so the slight increase in filter resistance must also be a factor. Renewed just about every union and pipe whilst trying to track down this issue.

     

    If the injector pump uses a transfer pump (in addition to a lift pump) then there might be a problem with the lift pump. If you have a filter element in the water trap (first filter) make sure you use a pocket filter in it, that is a Swiss roll type and not a pleated element. Often second line makers often supply a pleated filter for CAV 296 pocket ones. Pocket filters should take longer to clog. Depending upon how it was assembled the problem could even be with the dip tube inside the tan, especially if it seems linked to the tank fuel level. However if it is then  for ease I would keep using your modification.

  17. 1 hour ago, dmr said:

    As we are reviving a very old thread....

    I have a totally different engine which does circulate fuel back to the tank, but over the last couple of years have had increasing issues with air in the diesel.

    After extensive testing I concluded that my system was air-tight but was actually sucking dissolved air out of the fuel.

    Hence I also had a system that had worked fine for many years then slowly went wrong., I wonder if the increased % of FAME changes the dissolved air characteristic of diesel?????

     

    After reading posts from Tony I made my own version of the BMC system to bleed a little fuel off the top of the second filter right back to the tank via an orifice, and its worked.

     

    Well done, but in reality you have only hidden the basic problem, long may it continue. I can't offer a solution but I doubt it is the FAME. More likely gradual deterioration of a union, seal or component.

  18. 1. Re-read the BMC 1500  topic you resurrected months ago re the gearbox maker.

     

    2. Post the requested photos so you can be given a definitive answer re the stop control but most use a cable.

  19. So your cooling system holds about 120 litres? Remember that you dilute antifreeze to 30% so if the system capacity is 40 litres you only need about 13 litres of antifreeze. Some advocate using distilled or remineralised water water while others prefer ready mixed and that would need 120 litres. The 305 is very rough figure, do not exceed 50% antifreeze and try not to drop blow bout 20%.

    • Greenie 1
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