Tony Brooks

I bet if you can find them they will cost an arm and a leg, so it may be cheaper, if your alternator has no W terminal, to get a phase tap fitted and use a standard alternator driven rev counter. A few years ago I had extensive correspondence with someone who managed to repair his unit that was like yours, but I think his problem was that the gears inside the skew gear drive unit were moving out of mesh. I suspect that item 7 may be reasonably easy to fabricate. Edited to add I think it may have been made by Smiths Instruments in the 60s to 70s.

Be aware that the 12V output may not be regulated, it certainly is not on the Hondas. This means that as lead acid batteries charge the current drops and the voltage rises. If left on for a period it can easily go high enough to wreck the batteries. The 12V output is likely to limited in output current as well. No problem if you always charge via the inverter and LFPs will hold the voltage down until the BMS shuts the charge off.

It may upset the purists. I assume that the heater are on a spur and not a ring and the MCB is NOT a double pole one. In the first garage consumer unit there is likely to be an "earth" connection, a neutral bus bar, and the MCB will have a line cable in it's output. Disconnect the heaters circuit from the second consumer unit, extend the cable if required, and connect the "earth" of that cable to the earth in the back of the first MCB, the neutral to the neutral bus bar and the line, together with existing inverter cable line, in the first MCB outlet. If it is a double pole MCB then the line and neutral of the heater circuit go into the MCB output together with those from the inverter feed. I don't see it as basically difficult, but if you can't work it out it is probably safer to pay to have it done, 240V AC can kill. Look at this the Line in is Usually at the top, and the line out at the bottom, but consult the wiring diagram.

At the risk of tripping the MCB when the inverter and water heater are on high load I can't work out why the OP can't collect both the inverter and water heater/fan heater to the output side of the existing shore input MCB -as long as he does not uprate the MCB without changing the cable size to suit. Then all can use shore power when connected, but the inverter can't supply the heaters. Probably something I don't understand.

Sorry I can't be of more help, at least we know what you are after now. I expect the head bolts are what is known a stretch bolts, which are basically use once items. attempting to reuse them all too easily ends up in head gasket failure because the bots have been taken to beyond their elastic limit and just stretch. I can understand needing single valves if one or two have burned out, and rarely inlet ones. We used to reface valves all the time and reface the seats in the head. If none have burned out then I suspect your engineer may be trying to make his job easier (less valve grinding), so if you can find a machinist who does work for the local motor trade or a second line garage workshop with the tools, that may be a way of sorting the valves.

It might help to know which arts you are on about. Service items (belts and filters), engine parts (rings, pistons bearings, gaskets etc), or marinising parts like the exhaust manifold that are not Isuzu parts.

but does it then cool, best make sure before spending any money on a new stat or controller.

I certainly would, because it would be an investment in long term personal transport with minimal total running costs. To be honest am not sure if that is true now, because I suspect that I only have another few years of safeish driving, so probably not worth the investment. The money could go towards household solar.

If you change "most people" into "new car buyers" I would agree with you, but strongly suspect many of those running second o third hand cars would welcome simpler, easy to repair, longer lasting cars.

Whereas a GRP boat, like the Beaver is likely to burn down to the waterline and sink.

This is true and why Brian and I have had no reliability problems from AC light switches on water pump circuits. However, on the hire fleet I could see the arc through the plastic when the switch was turned off under load, but it did not seem to affect the life or reliability.

So, as it was stated on TV yesterday by a Jewish spokesperson of some sort (also probably an Israeli spokesperson) that 90% of the Jews in this country are also Zionists, so support Israeli actions, rather suggests that those who have in the past and today claim that UK Jews have undue influence is all sorts of areas just might have a point. I suspect that if the UK Jews ensured those that portray themselves as their leaders were not Zionists and did not try to promote Zionist propaganda they might find they receive far less hostility. I wonder if UK Jews experience any more hostility from the non-Jewish population that the Muslims do from the non-Muslim population in the UK - excluding hostility from Muslims who the Jewish Zionists have been stirring up for 80 odd years.

True for the engine because it probably uses a bypass system to ensure the coolant circulates while the engine thermostat is shut and you probably have a calorifier coil. This means that given time the multiple paths through the system ensured the new antifreeze mixes into the existing coolant. The central heating is a different thing because if you get a slug of neat antifreeze in the system the hot antifreeze is denser than hot water so won't rise through the radiators. You should always premix it. Also don't pt too much in the central heating. That can inhibit it working. Say 25% antifreeze for the central heating and 30 to 33% in the engine. You also need to consider the corrosion inhibitors that get "used up" over time.

Look at it this way: It would be very unwise to let an ORDINARY alternator at maximum output for the time an LFP bank will allow it to, so the B2B or DC to DC converter In talks about is used to limit the alternator output to a safe long term level. So lets put a few numbers on it and compare with your 1Kw of solar. Use your own numbers to be more accurate. Lets say a 100 amp alternator limited to 50% of output to keep the alternator cool enough. That gives 50 amps x 14V = 700 watts. Now that 700 watts will be steady and not start low and gradually rise until noon, and then drop again like solar does. We really need to work in Amp hours or Watt hours, but you can see that over one hour of engine running the solar, at maximum output will give you more. If you need 1kW of solar then you won't meet that with one hour of engine running. That means the batteries will gradually go flat because of insufficient charging. Luckily that won't have the very damaging effect on LFP batteries that it would on lead acids. We know a decent solar array will have fully charged LFP batteries by noon, so say 3 hours of some output during winter and over six provably with a higher output in the summer. This again suggests you would be likely to be running a charge deficit at certain times during the winter. This is why you will need battery monitoring so you can adjust your engine running time to suit the state of battery charge. NOTE to others, I know this is over simplified and the units are wrong because I wanted to keep it within the terms in the question.

SOME insurers, by no means all, and possibly no longer, but checking the policy would be a good idea.

I am sure the BBC pays a fee to the European Broadcasting Union, who I am fairly sure run the contest, but I am not sure if entering the contest brings with it an extra fee. I don't know what other benefits the BBC gets from membership, but if they are not considerable I can see the time coming when the BBC should pull out of the contest and the EBU. However, as I intimated in another thread, strings will be pulled to ensure they do neither.

This is what gets me, just who or what have the power to wave this big stick. I can only think of one lobby, but we are not allowed to point that out, yet virtually every time anyone dares to point it out that lobby leaders speaks out to try to silence with the connivance of the media. Where does this sort of power come from? Is it money, is it long term infiltration into governance and the media? I would love to know how it all works.

I suppose that depends if you can keep an eye on them while cruising, which depends on the machine and your locations. If you can the then is not unattended. If you can't then it is probably safest not to use it.

Regrettably that is not true, especially in respect of (I think) Hotpoint dryers. A few years ago they had a spate of them burning and even after modification some still caught fire. The fire service have advised that dryers should not be operated unattended, and by extension I think common sense would also suggest the same applies to washer dryers. I understand the electrically most efficient ones need a large (6"?) vent hose to stop filling the boat with condensation - just another thing to consider.

To add. If a battery has a shorting cell or cells then, again, that reading could be correct because of a higher current, but that is unlikely with just 12-month-old batteries that have been kept charged. I think getting the alternator to company for testing would be a good next move.

So if it had just been taken off charge or the charger was still on when you got your 15 amps then that might be an expected reading, but not if you can't find a half-wave rectified output on the W terminal.

Yes, I think @blackrose is using excess solar output to heat the calorifier. There is an extensive topic about how to do it. It is only likely to work with LFP batteries. I think @Jen-in-Wellies has or had a solar hot water system. Unless you want to use electricity to run a circulation pump then any back boiler system needs carefully designing, especially the calorifier coil part of the circuit, and the large pipe needed it may not be easy to retrofit. Circulating pump linked to typical solid fuel stoves present the danger of the boat being filled with steam and rust water, or even and explosion, if the pump fails and the back boiler boils.

If the pulley ratios are correct then you should not need "quite a lot of umph" to get maximum output. 1200 to 1500 RPM is typically enough. The alternator charging current is totally dependant upon state of lead acid battery charge. With tolerably well charge batteries 15 amps at a bit higher than tick over would be as expected, but with well discharged batteries it should be a lot higher Re the W terminal. Have you tested it on Hz (frequency) or AC volts? On the basis of what you have told us and without knowing the state of battery charge I think things are pointing towards a failed phase. A good point, but he did say CLAMP meter so if he used the clamp with the meter set to V I would have expected it to hunt around a few 10ths of a volt.

I never had a problem there, as far as I can remember.

Would that be the flat bridge that you have to take radio aerials down for, rather than an arched bridge.