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Tony Brooks

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Everything posted by Tony Brooks

  1. looks like a Borg Warner Velvet drive to me. It uses ATF (Dexron). Check the oil level. The filler has a dip stick under it and it is the square headed plug between there cable n the left and the silver gear cable. Make sure the silver gear cable is actually moving the control and if t is, disconnect it and try the control lever by hand. If neither work it may be the drive pate but unless you have had chattering noises and a noisy drive take up over the last months a box rebuild is more likely. When the box s split I seem to remember a fibre mesh oil strainer as per car auto boxes and that MIGHT be blocked.
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  3. A blocked filter in the lift pump is, in my view, unlikely to cause a misfire but may cause a loss of power/speed,. An air leak into the lift pump from the large O ring in the cap or the soft washer around the cap bolt just might cause a misfire but more likely the engine would rev up and stop. The strainer in the injection pump rarely causes a problem in a half decently maintained engine but if it did partially block the engine would most likely rev itself up a bit.
  4. Yes, but I forgot the master switch - especially if it has a red plastic removable key.
  5. If dirty or if t has been fitted with closed cell foam it might explain the "blue" smoke that may be greyish black, but unlikely to cause a misfire as described. try it with no filter.
  6. Drity/loose start battery terminals. Big multi-plug in the engine loom, probably near the starter. try pulling apart and pushing it back together. Inline fuse, again hidden away near the starter blown/dirty. Remember that on the majority of boats the engine start and domestic batteries are separate systems. Good domestics does not mean the start battery is good.
  7. I wonder how much backlash you have in the camshaft and injector pump drive. If only does it at idle I would suspect excess backlash. This could be a stretched timing chain and worn tensioner or, if you have not been cleaning the injector drive lubricator and strainer, worn pump drive and/or camshaft skew gears. I don't know how confident you feel about taking the pump off and checking how much play there is in the drive or taking the timing cover off for a look-see.
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  10. I think that you have a heat exchanger (indirect raw water) cooled engine and those are usually more than capable of running a calorifier and it would also tend keep the engine cooler while the calorifier heats up.
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  13. Just to point out that, although not in Lincolnshire as far as I know, the OP may find the Nene or Middle Levels to be close enough.
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  15. In that area for prolonged cruising you may need three licenses. Environment Agency, Middle level Commissioners and CaRT. The EA and CaRT one can be combined into one Gold License. Then there is the one from the Cam Commissioners as well. To hire out legally your boat needs to be built and regularly examined to a different standard , more demanding, than a private boat, will need more expensive licence(s), different, and more expensive insurance, plus whatever "operating base" requirements the licensing authority. Then there is the question of how you cope with the inevitable breakdowns. It is generally considered not to be viable. There has been at least one case of someone hiring "under the radar" loosing their boat.
  16. The reason no one will tell you the hp is that (from memory) Newage gave 3 hp figures. Continuous, intermittent with limitations to period and frequency, and maximum. The there is the fact that most displacement boats prop for maximum toruqe, not maximum speed so the engine is prevented form reaching the maximum hp speed. With the flywheel housing and front engine mounts shown on the video that is a very old 1.5 produced long before the 1.8 was even thought of. Apart from that the timing cover and injector pump position is correct for a 1.5 and wrong for a 1.8. If you initial choice for a 1.5 was based on what that engineer told you be aware that the 1.5 has a three bearing crank plus a torsional oscillation damper to prevent it snapping itself. I don't know the Ford unit in detail but I fully expect it to be a five bearing crank without a torsional oscillation damper. I would not like to use a 1.5 these days for long distance cruising a long way from the UK, properly overhauled or not.
  17. A land is a piece of a stricture that stick out, usually related to locating something, so in this case it would be a sticky out bit that fits the hole in the middle of the multi-groove pulley so it has to be central and run true.
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  19. I agree but would he get enough wrap on the new pump pulley? Just a thought. I think this may be the easiest way of doing it. Otherwise as even a large Jabsco pump takes a comparatively modest load I think those three allen screws could be used to drive an extra crankshaft pulley without issue. It would need a land to centralise it on the existing pulley I suspect. seeing the size of the crankshaft pulley on the 1.5s with a Jabsco pump (very small) I don't think here would be much load at all
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  21. From the Wikipedia entry for the Rother class RNLI Boat: Twin 52 hp Ford Thorneycroft 250 four-cylinder diesels gave a maximum speed of 8 knots Does not sound much like a 30 to 35 HP BMC 1.5 to me, but we all know Wikipedia cam be wrong but in this case I doubt it.
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  23. As no on else with better experience of Kubota has replied I will give my thoughts. I think there are three possibilities, all of which depend upon the spillage of liquid or condensation. The injector nozzle can get very hot so: That may expand air trapped in the threads that expands and is expelled upwards through liquid that has collected around the thread. This should stop after the engine is up to temperature or when the liquid has evaporated. It could be liquid that has worked down the threads boiling and bubbling out upwards. This again should stop after a good run. It might be that the seal between injector and cylinder head is leaking slightly but as I don't know the Kubota arrangement I can't suggest what and how. I don't think it will do any harm in the short term but might if left indefinitely. There may be a taper metal to metal seat and if so removing the injector, scrupulously cleaning both halves of the seat, and refitting to the correct torque may be all that is required. It may involve one or more copper washers and in that case removing the injector, cleaning the steel faces, fitting new washers, and tighting to the correct torque is likely to work. In either case ignoring it for a long time just might burn a slot in the seat so it would never seal. I would suggest that you give it a good run and see if it cures itself. In fact it might even stop as the engine warms up and expands. It this seems to be the case it would be a good idea to tighten it to the correct torque. Happy to be told this is rubbish by one of our engineer members who is working on Kubotas. BEngo posted as I corrected my post.
  24. You can get gasket paper and make your own but my guess is that the old one, even if it is broken a little, with a thin smear of Hylomar on both sides. There should be very little oil around the pump to adaptor plate joint,
  25. Take some time investigating this. Compare the data on the vendor's site, which will be almost certainly optimistic, with this site: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beaufort_scale Then think about where your location's average wind speed will be. It is not the wind speed that it starts generating that is important, the important bit is the speed at which it is producing sufficient output for your needs.
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