BEngo

Jotun, Hempel and Sherwin Williams are all good starting points. Damp tolerant doesn't mean " can be applied underwater" though🙂 Dont expect them to be cheap either. I dont know much about the chemistry of epoxies, but there are a range of them, si taking to a specialist is a good idea. @Dr Bob is quite well up on these things and has provided good advice in the past. N

I second the suggestion to use an underwater paint. Danboline says on the can that it is not suitable for permanently wet areas. However, whatever paint you use either needs to be tolerant of damp steel or you will have to have the steel properly dry. That is, the temperature of the steel ( not the air) is at least 5 degrees above the dew point. This is difficult to achieve in UK with a boat in the water. Damp tolerant epoxies are readily available. N

Ah but it was a yellow cable so 110 V. Much safer. N

Spray foam in tins from Screwfix et al. Supposedly sticks to damp steel. May or may not like existing polystyrene. Regluing some polystyrene and adding Aluminium tape may be easiest. Keep the polystyrene away from PVC cabling if there is any about. When renewing, polyurethane foam (Kingspan/celotex) is better than polystyrene. N

Fire retardant plywood is made that way. Each of the laminates is treated and the glue is fire retardant too. Even then you need a fairly thick piece to achieve a 30 minute fire rating. I doubt a spray treatment of one surface will achieve much. To then paint it, unless you are using a special paint would simply negate any benefit from the spray. N

An update on forum finances can be found on the Members only area of the Pub. N

A fire retardent sealing foam, available from Screwfix, Toolstation and others will be just the job. You can either mask off before squirting it in and remove the masking as soon as the stuff has expanded or fill the gaps and tidy up when its set. For smaller holes Henley's Compound. N

Next thing is to check the regulation. You need to increase the load in steps, to near full power, checking and adjusting the output voltage and frequency at each step. A fan heater is a good tool because they usually have various heat settings. Best thing I'd to just run through, measuring, and then decide what output power you want to set it up at, with some idea then where it will be at no load and full load. You may expect to find that at full output the voltage is at the low end of the range and at low output it is in the high end of the range. The official UK ac power supply limits are something like 236 to 254 V. AC The regulated speed of the Beta will depend on how it has been set up. I would certainly expect more than 49 Hz to be available at no/low load. The speed regulation will inevitably have some droop, so if you can't get 50+ Hz at no load you will be looking at ~45 Hz or less at full load. N

Looking at the close up picture of the gearbox operating lever: The lock nut on the cable end is loose The lock nut on the astern stop is loose. The operating lever looks to be bent against the gearbox casing. The first two are not causing the problem, but will cause others if not correctly adjusted and fixed. I think the third is probably the cause and is physically stopping the lever moving to neutral . Cause probably misuse as an unintended step whilst clearing the prop. Disconnect cable, remove lever, beat it straight. Do not attempt to bend it straight while fitted as this may well damage the input shaft seal. N

RWD in this case means Redman Whiteley Davies. Interior designers - heaven knows who did the work. Isn't this Michelle Mone's bote? Theres a picture of her on a very similar and identically named vessel somewhere on here. IIRC. N

Governor would surely be pulling it?🙄 The Harris 'swim' works surprisingly well, despite appearances. When making the water wobble it tends to dig big holes in the water either side at the start of the taper but then doesn't produce as much wash as might be expected, while the whole thing gets along rather quickly. It steers backwards quite well too. N

The back end, above and below water, looks near identical to the arrangements Harris Bros made on the six rivetted boats they built as pleasure craft in about 1960. Not surprising if they also shortened Mr Ward's boat. N

To re-seal the window after sorting the rust, use either a butyl sealant or closed cell foam tape. The butyl sealant will not set hard allowing the natural movement between an aluminium frame and the steelwork. Foam tape seals but does not stick. It is not so good on rough surface. Do not use silicone sealant. It will be too thin to accommodate the movement and it leaks very quickly. N

The alternator looks like it might be the Ford Pinto one, which has the same mounts as an A127. Comes iln either LH or RH Puts out 85 to 100 A and has two internal fans. Sold in race trim by WOS Performance. Google LMA 237 alternator. N

The manual hand pump should have no connection to the electrics. If it doesn't work you will need to find and dismantle and clean it. Check also that its overboard discharge is clear. I think the fuses for your bilge pumps, (and everything else) may be integral with the switches. Each switch is a circuit breaker. They all appear to be in the OFF position. The Rule a matic device pictured is an automatic switch to start the bilge pump if the water level rises. They are renowned for failing. I suspect this has failed and the pumps have run dry and also failed. Doesxeverything else (horn etc.on the switch panel work? If not a main fuse, which should be located near the battery has possibly failed, or the battery isolator is OFF. Do you have a multimeter? If not, you should get one. They are not dear and are essential for fault finding electrical kit. Then check the voltages at the pump connections with the bilge pump switches ON. Come back with the results. N

Marsworth? Tring reservoir to the left of the photographer Startopsend reservoir behind the bank at he too of the pic N

2ft 8 in of draft is not really a problem on most canals. We run around at that or more. You may find the skeg bounces over a few things, especially the back blocks of the BCN. You will also sink a bit further when going along. However, if the swim is 2ft 2 deep, as spec, then the stern is over ballasted, by about 5 inches. The counter should just sit in the water, enough so that waves cannot make annoying slop slop noises at night. First thing is to get out as much stuff as possible from the engine bay. Ditch or shift forward any easily accessible ballast from the middle back. Loading the bow will also help- fill the water tank as suggested, and add ballast. Every inch down at he bow will raise the stern about 1/2 an inch. Don't get nose down though.! N

Once upon an earlier life I worked for a business that made turbochargers. They were Imperial, as were most of the turbos we made, being of US origin. The ones for the German, Japanese and Dutch markets were specified in SI units but the dimensions were converted so the stage drawings were all Imperial too. The high tech Japanese machinery and robots that made the swarf didn't seen to care what they were programmed in.. N

I think the original would have been defined in imperial units. Not too difficult to work them out though. N

45 deg bevel wheel, with the teeth on the upper surface and a coarse pitch thread in the centre, roated by a bevel pinion on the winding shaft . Rotate bevel wheel and the screw shaft goes up of down. Mechanical advantage enormous, velocity ratio low. N

Havd you tried AB Tuckey? They have their own brand and truck and can certainly move a 70x 7. N

There are two stator windings. One is the output. The other provides the field current, and this à is permanently connected to the field winding. The rotor is designed to produce too much field current. If there is no load and no AVR there should be enough field for the output to reach 300V. The basics of the generator thus seems to be working as designed. The AVR is supposed to divert some of the field current elsewhere when the voltage is higher than the set point. I guess this will be by switching a resistor in and out of parallel with the field windings. The (new) AVR either does not work like this or is not working. N

The OP said there was water oozing out from under the concrete so I guess any steel/concrete bond is not that strong. N

I would agree with Tony, but The existing engine is coming out, forceebuild or renewal. That will (should) deal with ang engine issues. The existing tank is smaller than the engine supplier recommends. This potentially risks a warranty refusal because the engine is "incorrectly " installed. The engine bay needs a good sort out. For the effort and extra cost involved it seems worth it to have a larger skin tank. Better to do it now when access is easy than after a new engine is fitted. N

5 mm plate will be fine. The checkers can be inside or out, to your taste! 5mm will bend to the curve without slitting. Jumping on it, or driving a fork lift on to it when supported at the edges will get it going. The swim itself is probably 6mm, bent without slitting. You may need to temporarily weld on a few levers to help with the bending. If the boat is in the bank, bend it off the boat, fitting it to the swim outside until it is very close, then check against the inside. If you do slit it you will need to weld up the slits, otherwise you have an effective tank wall of 2 or 3 mm You will need to curve the top and bottom strips, which you do by beating one edge into the groove of some rsj or heavy rsc with a 14lb 'ammer, moving along steadily. Start with a piece that is too long and trim to length. The tank itself wants to have water space about 25 to 30 mm thick. Set the baffles to give a water channel about 30-35 mm wide. Leave about 50-70 mm for the return bends. Water runs from top to bottom. Don't forget an air vent at the top front. Remove, clean and refit the exhaust. Paint it with stove paint or Sperex HT paint in pretty colours. I would not keep it if it is not effective. Much easier to have a working one as part of the engine swap than pay more, and have extra hassle, to get it done later. Provided you have the money now of course. By the time you are done you will be well able to demonstrate that BOAT is an ETLA for Bring Out Another Thousand. 😯 🙂 N