jnrhacksaw

I've changed the injection pump on my engine and I'm having problems getting it timed. Trial and error has improved things, better starting and less smoking. But I want to get the timing absolutely right. Obviously I don't have the factory tool to do this, is there something else I can use? Or even another method?

I'm thinking of going the caustic route. I know this is bad for aluminium is not washed off, what's it like with brass and bronze? Reminds me of the time a mate dissolved his motorbike carb in caustic!

The smell of gunk makes me want to puke!

I want to degrease and clean my filthy engine room, I'm living in the boat so solvents or Gunk are out, I also need a powerful product as there are decades of gunge in there.

I have a 2.5 and it has 3 main bearings

If I can find out for sure if it fits, and find bearings to fit I might be interested. thinking it looks easier to get it re-ground as bearings are still available.

I'm looking for a crankshaft for a 2.5 mine has spun the middle main bearing. The one below is listed for a LD van had a 2.2 fitted http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-BMC-Crankshaft-with-Bearings-Morris-Id-Van-Part-Number-28G80-3H-EB/131841165166?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 However on closer inspection I'm not sure its the same as mine, anyone know the parts numbers and what it may be for?

can someone clarify for me? thanks.

Pm'd

Much appreciated, gipsy spares want a small fortune for a second hand one. Yeah a 2.5 might be a bit over the top for the canal, especially as the boat has two of them!

If I had a time machine maybe Gipsy spares in Holland say they may be able to help, next option is a 2.2 rod if its the same length . Otherwise modifying a rod or even getting one made might be the way.

I have a BMC/Newage 2.5 Commander engine that was a basket case. I'm in the process of re-assembling it but I'm one pushrod short. Parts list for the engine states the part numbers as 11b.133 or AEB.414 total length of the pushrod is 242mm, I've attached a picture.

the seal fitted fine, it compressed but was a tight squeeze. no leaks

I'll trim the seal down till it fits. If that doesn't work i'll chew a bit of bark or animal hide till it fits. Or knitt a seal maybe.

That sounds ok as the seal will be a tight fit, its 36mm internal not 44mm

I've found a felt dust seal for a tractor that looks like it will fit, its dry felt, does it need to be boiled in grease?

The seal dimensions are: 10mm thick 44mm inner 54mm outer I found the mark MM on the castings, does this mean Morris motors? If so is this a vedette gearbox?

Yeah it could be leather, If i use a lip seal do I cut away the face of the seal plate in order to push in the seal?

Ok thats easy enough, is this a felt seal I need?

I've got a BMC 2.2 fitted with a Morris or Newage mechanical gearbox. There's no name on the castings and I've been unable to find anything similar on the net, see photos below. The output bearing was wrecked and this has worn the seal. The seal appears to be felt or badly decomposed rubber and sits in a deep grove in the seal plate. Where can I get this seal, can it be replaced or do I need to modify the plate to take a modern lipped seal?

I have a 100mm gap between my stove and a steel bulkhead. Its recommended that there be a 45mm air gap then 25mm calcium silicate board with another air gap of 10mm. However fireboard is expensive, over a £50 for a 1m square sheet. are there any other alternatives? at the moment the burner is surrounded with the steel of the hull and the bulkhead there's nothing flammable within 500mm

Tony, Yes the pipes are still being used, I'm not convinced that even 5 coats of epoxy and silkflex is sufficient to electrically insulate the bronze through-hull from the hull, however I'll try a meter to see if it has at least been successful for the short time they have been fitted. Maybe I should consider a plastic through hull connection or a metal one shrouded in something non conductive? judging by what you and Chewbaka have said it seems isolating the pipes from the hull is the most important aspect, I presume you warn against painting them as this affects the cooling ability? the boat will be used in fresh water at first and then moved to salt water.

The coolers consist of copper pipes that run through the hull and then run along the outside next to the keel. The copper should be isolated from the hull where they pass through by several thick coats of epoxy and silkalfex, the mounting brackets are isolated with PVC packings. There where signs of corrosion near the copper pipes on the hull when I stripped the boat back to bare steel. I guess the best way to go would be to epoxy the pipes therefore insulating them from any electrolytic or galvanic action? I'm not sure which metal the anodes are, I'll try some fillings with the blow torch to see. When I bought the boat these where painted over

I'm in the process of restoring a 1940's steel cruiser, at some point the boat has been fitted with keel coolers made from copper pipe. Should these be painted? I presume bare copper might interfere with the zinc anodes fitted.

Its possible its a Renold chain, it looks like a big bicycle chain, much lighter than standard 3/4" chain. these are the dimensions: pitch 19mm roller diameter 10mm roller width 6.5mm