Joe Bourke

Consider Chlorinated Rubber, commonly described as swimming pool paint. Applied straight onto bare steel, not over old paint. Quick drying and a good thickness can be achieved quite quickly. To avoid condensation use a fan blowing cold air.

Staniland Marina drydock.

Goole

Alec & Brian Wroe. I think they were based on a farm in Pollington, on the Aire & Calder. That was in the 90's. One of my neighbours in Blue Water Marina back then had a small Dutch Barge called 'Celine' built by Alec Wroe and looked a nice thing. A small scale outfit.

HMS Sprat (X53), a Stickleback-Class midget submarine sailed from Goole to Leeds in November 1957. There was an article about in the Yorkshire Post.

Maybe so Jo, but that joint breaking might have saved your boat from sinking. A blessing in disguise?

No problem Jo. Yes re-weld, and maybe add some beef around it. Maybe it's a good job it did break ?? Think about it. We've had water since August so all is well again on that front. 😃

Jo, I have spoken to the previous owner of your boat. The pre-sale survey highlighted a worn prop shaft bearing. A new one was fitted. A welder chappie cut the rudder stock above the rudder blade to remove the rudder and re-welded it afterwards. That is probably what has failed. When you had the new rudder/swan neck bearing fitted, that crew probably knew that the swan kneck came off so it was done in water.

Moored on the Aire & Calder

AE Woodward's of Hull re-pitched our 27" prop while we had a walk around the shops. Dropped it off first thing, ready for collection at noon. Back on the boat same day.

I know this is an old thread but thought it was interesting to look back at the Solar thread of March 2020.

Hidden where Jo?

LadyG has messaged me with thanks and will pass on info to the electrician on Wednesday.

Apparently there was a voltmeter by the bow batteries so easy to check. My feeling is that the isolator(s), the one at the bow batteries and the one at the stern are not in the correct positions for the charge from the solar or engine to get through. There is also a fuse by the bow batteries, is that ok?

That's the problem, who's blocked/ignored? Who's not? I am happy to ask the previous owner further questions, he seems totally happy to talk. He is an electrician by the way.?

Dear LadyG, I have this morning collared the previous owner of your boat, who by the way is one of the kindest most helpful gents in the marina. First of all I asked him about the bow batteries. They used to drive the bow thruster but when the bow thruster was removed they were connected to the inverter situated by them, and cabin 12v circuits, and could also be charged from the stern with solar and engine. There was a fuse adjacent to the bow batteries and also an isolator. There was also a small mains charger there as well. There are hefty welding cables going from the stern to the bow for charging those bow batteries. There is also a massive earth cable ringing the entire cabin to "t" into if needed (his words). He also had a small 300watt inverter to just run the telly to save using the big inverter and so saving power. There was a voltage meter up by the bow batteries. In the galley somewhere near the fridge was a white unit and in it was an automatic switching relay. As soon as you unplugged shore power the fridge was on 12v cabin batteries. When on shore power it powered the fridge without using the 12v batteries. That way the fridge didn't use the cabin batteries when on land-line. Now the stern. You have mentioned 3 isolators in a line. 1 - Engine Starter Battery. 2 - Domestic Batteries 3 - Bow Batteries ALL batteries could be charged via solar or engine if necessary by using the isolators. Or prioritising the charging of the different batteries using the isolators if necessary. Once again there are hefty cables going from stern to bow for charging. By the way he said everything was labelled. That's about as much as I can remember. It is unfortunate that you couldn't get a better, more direct explanation from him when you were both living in the marina. I am aware that you have had umpteen electricians on the boat so alot of this info might be a waste of time. Hope this helps. Joe

I think I know the boat. If it's the one I think it is, it is on a private marina canalside mooring and NOT on a CRT mooring. It is an ex working boat on a pretty expensive (for the area) garden mooring. If you are serious about the boat go the usual route and put an offer in subject to INDEPENDENT survey. Not some pet surveyor possibly with connections to a boatbuilder/welder. Get it into a drydock, looked at, then make an informed decision. Asking for advice on here without giving details is pointless.

Hello David. If I was to do it. Sufficient spray foam for 900 sq feet at 2" thickness. That's my guestimate anyway. ?. Don't under estimate the skill required though. I've watched them many a time. It can get very messy when things go wrong. Come on folks give the guy a break..

The cofferdam is still there, and is still failing, so no effective work looks imminent. Then again it's only 3 months since the breech. At least the levels on the Goole side of the breach came back up a few days ago so just about near normal. Transit for leisure craft through Goole docks is still blocked. The latest pictures taken today, courtesy of Mark Penn, Drone Pilot.

27-28"' below normal, same as yesterday, but hey it could be Ocean Lock, what do I know?

We have dropped a foot in the last 24 hours.

No, in fact the "repair" is failing and the CRT have lowered the levels on that stretch even more. We in Goole are isolated from the canal by the defective emergency stop gates. Taken from a Facebook Barge Group.

Thorne side at Cowick, near the breach. Opposite bank.