Felshampo

Presumably you could hang onto the bridge while stamping on them to push them under......

The ones in Nantwich still work. Could you use a youngman board in a lock wing? There's nowhere to attach it or get on it once in place. Your description is identical to how I saw it being done at a bridgehole on the Macclesfield. They had to stand on the dry planks to get them to sink so they could put in the next one. This is why I am skeptical of the suggestion that they used ropes to lower them in place.

And impossible on this one! I think you need to look at the photos.

That makes sense. Still looks difficult to put stop planks in here. They float so you need to push them down to put the next one in. I'd like to see it done.

This wouldnt work here, unless you could walk on water.

I suppose I was thinking in an emergency, when you needed to do it quickly. But maybe they always had the manpower available?

OK. Quick disclaimer, I realise that stop planks need a recess in the wall so you can put them ino the slot. I foolishly asked this question on Facebook and most people said "thats what the indents for" and even had one person draw a diagram! This is still a daft question but...... How did the lock-keepers get the stop planks into the slot. I assume they didn't have a boat handy. Even if they did that would still seem a overly difficult task. Lowering the planks by rope is possible. Does anyone know the definitive answer or am I just being thick (again). The slots are half way between the gates and the end of the wing walls. The locks are on the run in to Chester on the Shroppie.

Now then children please play nicely. It seems this thread about my 2LW has been taken over by a load of spanners.

The bolts holding the diaphragm on are 2BA which is 4mm.

Just thought I would follow up and let people know what has happened. Found a chap called Eric Ward who works at Walshes and lives near me. He had a look and at first thought it might be a sticking valve on the lift pump. So he removed it and gave it an overhaul. It was leaking from the diaphragm and the the valve needed replacing. This improved things. Still seemed to be a problem so he replaced the splayers. That has made a real difference and I have to say the engine now starts quicker than it has ever done since I've had it. The only thing left would be to overhaul the fuel pump. Eric was reluctant to do that, especially when I said it had been done 5 years ago by Walshes. He reckons it was probably him who had reconditioned it! I was impressed by how quickly and easily Eric and Claudia, his missus who also works at Walshes, were able to remove and replace the pump and splayers. If you know what your doing these really are easy engines to work on. Having the right spanners also helps, we needed four types including Whitworths and BA (I'd never heard of the latter)

Charles did the overhaul 4 years ago. Top man.

I'm in Nantwich at the moment, but thanks anyway.

I'll bear that in mind, thanks.

I've got someone coming to replace the injectors next weekend. If that doesn't work then it looks like the fuel pump from what you have all said. It was calibrated by Walshes 4 years ago so I hope it's not that. I'll post on here when I find out.

To be honest I've also not had a problem starting until now. I haven't been pulling the priming before so don't know what they were like.

Don't know. I'll look into that.

No more smoke. Oil level hasn't changed since March, just a fraction under max. No diesel smell in the oil. Have you any ideas as to what may be the problem?

I tried this today. The levers feel slack, other than the spring you are pulling against. I pulled them several times with no change. No build up of pressure or creak from the splayer. Having said that I then tried the engine and it started easily.

How will that prove that air is in the pump? What will I notice if there is or isn't?

I think it is returning but when it go back when I return the lever to start. The engine does start after it has turned over several times. There is fuel in the filter. Could air have got in after the pump so that it has to get to the pistons before it starts. There is no fuel leaking from the pump but presumably air could get in.

It's a 1952 2lw. There is a one way valve on the fuel pump that could have been stuck so I have had a new one fitted. Unfortunately this does not seem to have improved the start time.

Could be that. I will fill up and see if that makes a difference.

Only a small amount around the diaphragm but this could have got worse! I wipe it clean and it usually stays dry until I run the engine again.

Yes I was using the lever on the lift pump. There is no signs of fuel around the filter casing. I used a new rubber O ring and a doughty washer on the nut. There is fuel around the edge of the lift pump but there always has been. The oil level seems OK.

After getting back from our summer on the boat with no issues we left the boat for a week in the marina. When we returned for a short trip it would not start. It turned over but instead of firing up after a few seconds it just kept on going. I pumped the lever on the fuel for a minute and tried again and it started after about ten seconds or so. I had a look at the fuel filter, it was still clean, but changed it anyway. We went for a few days trip and each morning it started as normal. Today after leaving it for a week, again it would not start. Pumping the fuel for a minute and again it started. It has always been very reliable in the past, starting on freezing cold days after having been left for weeks, without a problem. Any ideas would be welcome. I will reply later if you have any questions.