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Sea Dog

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Everything posted by Sea Dog

  1. (Tempted to say LOL, but that's another thread....)
  2. I'd be pleased with it if I'd done it!
  3. I'm working on an organic free electricity generator. It's based on perpetual motion, using the principles that toast always lands buttered side down and a cat will always land in its feet. I've got as far as taping toast (buttered side up) to the cat's back and, when dropped from a window, the assembly rotates just above the ground as the two pinciples fight for dominance. All I need now is a method of connecting a drive belt without disturbing the balance.
  4. Health warning on the above: Tipton to Deepfields passes through Cosely which was/is/will be closed to navigation, so will be date critical. I suspect the OP knows this, hence his circuitous route.
  5. Eber's own report of their investigation into early failures reported in narrowboat installations makes it really clear that they respond badly to working too far within their capacity. If you retain your Eber and reduce the load on it, or replace it with a more powerful one, make sure the demand on it is commensurate with its rating and don't run it in a scenario where it short cycles. They also advise that a calorifier circuit should have a secondary circuit such as a towel rail. Stagedamager, Eber also make the point that calorifier circuits (normally the first in line for heat as yours seem to be) must be properly balanced as too much flow through them will cause the system to shut down as it detects they're up to temperature and then to restart when it gets cold water from the rad circuit. This early onset of short cycling might be why you have piping hot water but cold rads after an hour, whereas my (smaller 4kw) system has heat to both pretty much from the off. It may be that adjusting the flow through your calorifier (mine has a ball valve in line set about half way) to achieve a better balanced system might be worth a try before a complete system redesign.
  6. I'm a bit sceptical that a high level vent ducted to low level does the same job as a low level vent.
  7. I've never seen 80 degrees even working upstream, so I'm content that the NRV you recommend will cope. Since it's not critical, I don't intend to break into my system at this time of year, so any corrective action is a project for post-winter. I'd prefer a passive solution from pipework tweaks if possible, but I'd be grateful for motorized valve details when convenient Adrian as that's a guaranteed and quite elegant fix if push comes to shove! Before this thread disappears down the rabbit hole of the merits of various engines, can I just squeeze in a quick thanks for your input folks!
  8. Only shopping trollies - I thought it was a tradition. I'll happily stop if it's not, cos it's costing a quid a chuck! (Disclaimer: The above is a joke: I am not partaking in,and neither do I advocate, the introduction of shopping trollies into the canal. Also, no shopping trollies were injured in the making of this post).
  9. Useful to hear from someone who's had the issue and solved it Adrian, thanks, particularly since you accounted for NRV cracking pressure which was a concern. Also a concern is the rating to 100 degrees which seems marginal but if it works in your system I guess it's ok. I'm a bit surprised that, given that it seems to be a fairly commom issue, there hasn't been a bunch of 'here's what I've done and it works' replies which would've put this thing to bed. I did a bit of research into previous offerings that the connections were reversed, but Surecal's own diagrams don't differentiate between the flow and return connections and neither did any other circuit diagram I could find - it's as if it doesn't matter. However, reading through Tony Brooks' website here, I found "connect the HOT (away from the engine) pipe to the higher calorifier "coil" connection and the return to the lower one" which is how mine is connected. The tails connecting my coil go directly upwards about 2 feet to join the pipework going aft to the engine, and I'm wondering whether longer tails to allow them to fall first may prevent the hot water rising so easily and break the thermosyphon? While I've been typing this I've also had replies from Mike and Dave, for which I'm grateful. Mike's point about avoiding valves if possible chimes with my own inclination, and is the basis for the question about tails above. Thanks again all.
  10. Thanks again fellas. So the 'Calorifier Supply' (from the top of the engine) should be feeding the bottom of the two connections on the side of the vertically mounted Hot Water Tank? Certainly it seems to be to the top one right now as those are the pipes that are warm each end.
  11. Done! Really quick to do, probably seconds rather than minutes! Hope he does well.
  12. Thanks for the responses so far everyone. To clarify some of the points raised above: The Eberspacher and the engine both heat the water perfectly well. What I meant by them being 'stone cold' was that they've not been in use so any heat in those circuits is not residual from their recent use. Header tanks and engine levels are fine. Because there's no issue heating up the hot water tank by any method, I don't suspect there are airlock issues. I'm using the convention 'Calorifier' for the two wet heating elements themselver and the term 'Hot Water Tank' rather than use the same name there. The Hot Water Tank is modern and very well insulated - blue plasticised finish which you can't feel the tank's warmth through, but the water in there is properly hot as you can feel it at the connections and in delivery at the taps. The routes of the pipe runs themselves match the hose lengths and suggest that they're unchanged since it left the builder (Simon Piper) 6 years ago. The prevoius owner put 12 hours on the boat from new in 5 years, so I don't think he'll have noticed anything to go messing about. However, the pipe getting warm on the engine is the upper one on the Beta 43, labelled as 'calorifier supply' in the Beta 43 engine manual and the top one of the pair from the engine at the Hot Water Tank / Calorifier - is that the right way round? Hope that clears up any confusion and thanks again.
  13. Hi All, Because the very hot water at the end of a day's cruising is only warm in the morning, I've long suspected that I may have the issue where flow in the calorifier circuits is cooling the domestic hot water tank. This has been discussed here before so I've done a fair bit of reading about it and seen that the solution might be a non-return valve (NRV) or high points in the lines. I've also tried in the past to identify a suitable NRV for 5/8 inch internal diameter rubber hose without success. Being alongside and on shore supply at the moment has offered the ideal opportunity of a fuller investigation whilst I have a tank of piping hot water via the immersion heater at the same time as both the engine and eberspacher circuits are stone cold. At the vertical hot water tank located amidships, both of my calorifiers (upper eberpacher and lower engine fed) have cold bottom hoses and hot top hoses. If there was no flow at all I would expect all of these connection points to be roughly similar temperatures, right? The temperature differentials are stark. Both sets of pipes rise from the tank connections, the engine ones by about 2 feet to a duct at about 3/4 the height of the top of the tank, the eberspacher about 18 inches due to its calorifier being higher. Going aft (20 feet-ish) to the engine space, neither small bore plastic eberspacher pipe is noticeably warmer than the other, but at the engine (Beta 43) the rubber 5/8 inch calorifier upper (supply) hose is warm (not hot) whilst the calorifier lower (return) hose is stone cold. Do the panel think these symptoms are typical of the circulation issue? Would they agree that the eberspacher circuit losses are small enough to be ignored? If a non-return valve is the solution, where would it be best positioned and can anyone recommend a source for a suitable one which would fit into a 5/8 inch internal diameter rubber hose circuit? Many thanks in advance.
  14. That may well be true, but it may also be the case if all canal boats were left in a marina on shore supply with a good charger. Not everyone has the budget for forklift batteries; not everyone has the inverter/charger equipment to maintain them properly; not everyone has a usage pattern to make the most of them. I'm a similar position to the OP, having batteries that have been in my boat since new (2008) but, before I bought her, had spent most of their time alongside with shore supply available. Like the OP, I have no way of teling how they've been treated nor how much life they have left, particularly as my usage pattern is very different from the previous owner. They've been good for over a year so far though, touch wood, and I'll see how they go. I tend to agree with an earlier poster though - if the OPs original set up has lasted 8 years it can't be all bad and throwing similar batteries at it when these die wouldn't seem to be the worst thing he could do. Sounds to me like there's enough left in the present batteries to leave them in place a little longer and therefore better evaluate the current setup versus his actual needs. Time may prove that a different set up would better suit the new usage pattern of the boat, or perhaps the current set up might be ideal compromise? There are no prizes for the fastest wrong answer.
  15. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  16. Maybe we could just start with filling in the potholes - they'll likely be just as bad on the other side of the road. Once that's under the belt though, changing all the junctions, traffic lights, roadsigns, etc, etc, should be a doddle (after a very bad first few weeks where only the strong will survive and assuming that we're happy to drive vehicles with the steering on the wrong side until they fade away). Crikey, you'll want to align IALA A and B next! Buy shares in Red and Green paint!
  17. Crikey, maybe the OP should put his halogens back in?
  18. Well there's this bit you missed (sorry Ditchcrawler, it's easy done ).... So the new total load is 28.8 watts (hence 2.4 amps at 12 volts) and, if the split into 2 circuits is even, 14.4 watts for each circuit so slightly over 1 amp each (again at 12 volts, or half that if you're 24v).
  19. Seems?! Only seems?! Streuth, if I'd have known that I'd have had even more sleepless nights when I was at sea!
  20. Given that bit of info, Anne Robinson can now rest easier in her bed - after she's done a quick check of her LEDs armed with the original photo!
  21. I've no wish to enflame the general argument here, however, there's a point in the original post that should not be overlooked. if the LED which burst into flames was one of a batch of TEN, all of which were also faulty, you are probably being just a little more tolerant than you really ought to be. At the very least you ought to let the chandler know, as it seems unlikely he'd wish to be responsible for selling faulty goods, let alone dangerous ones.
  22. Well, someone just sailed from here. Much revving of the engine in forward and reverse, crew on the bow beating the ice ahead with poles and lots of graunching noises. Slow going indeed and he looked pretty much stuck for a while so I can't see him making a huge amount of progress. Lord knows what he was doing to his blacking, but it takes all sorts, eh? Perhaps he's in a hurry? ETA: How nice is that South Oxford scene above?!
  23. So we came to the boat last night to with the intention of running down to Diglis for New Year. Marina frozen over here at Droitwich, so I guess we'll be hanging around for a day or two looking at the forecast. I wouldn't have thought we were in a particularly exposed spot, not particularly far north, so I got to wondering how many others are surrounded by ice? And is everyone ok, or is someone stuck somewhere miles from a pub, with waxed up diesel, flat batteries (with just enough left to read a forum!), just fumes in their last gas bottle, down to their last shovel of coal and only a pint of unfrozen water left in their tank?!
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