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Sea Dog

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Everything posted by Sea Dog

  1. Well yes, but there's nothing in the OP to suggest there was anything wrong. He was just looking at whether to remove the VSR for simplicity's sake as I read it.
  2. Seems to me that you have a solid charging regime, that you understand your system better than you give yourself credit for and that your present setup is serving you (and @eightacre) very well. If it ain't broke...
  3. If only they weren't "out of stock"!
  4. Eminently sensible stuff above and from others. There is merit in having both alternators able to supply the more demanding domestics once the starter battery is recharged (very quickly in normal use) when the domestic alternator alone might struggle. However, if you have an ammeter, just have a look at how quickly your domestic bank charge current drops to below the 70 amps your domestic alternator alone can already supply - I suspect it's minutes, and after that there's little point in the VSR. If that's not the case and the VSR is maintaining a higher charging current for much longer, then the VSR may be useful. As you say you have limited knowledge (although since you've identified the VSR and know what it's doing you may be selling yourself a little short!) I'd be tempted to disconnect the VSR if you judge it unnecessary as it might confuse or mask the symptoms in the event of a charging system fault (including VSR!). You could always leave the VSR disconnected but ready to reconnect if needed. Rather more simply, I carry a jump lead in case one of my pair fail, but then my 150a domestic alternator means I definitely have no need of a VSR to boost domestic charging current. The idea of sending solar current to both banks sounds attractive but, unless you're leaving your boat for many months, a fully charged starter battery won't really need it. Several months of not being able to go to my boat during COVID verified that theory for me!
  5. Is that one of them in your avatar? Doesn't look to be the scariest little wolf in the pack - might be the cutest though...
  6. You're missing the point - it's not to keep folk in, it's to keep t'others out!
  7. Well if that educational post is you in pedant mode, have a greenie and keep doing it!
  8. This (and what @Tony Brooks said earlier). In addition, check the neck of the filler - is there, as there often is, a small stub of metal tube there? Or even a plastic tube running from that stub? This is where the coolant will eject if you overfill or if the pressure cap is lifting for any other reason. If you direct this tube into a plastic bottle sitting in the bilge you'll be able to check that bottle when the engine is cool to see if (and how much) coolant has been expelled, and also tell if none has.
  9. Ah yes, but if you put them down somewhere and can't remember where, they'll be easy to spot on the ceiling.
  10. The photo is upside down. Can anyone tell me where I can get one of those helium filled key rings?
  11. We have that twin tub mentioned earlier, and very good it is too. The spinner does a terrific job, so drying is a much reduced issue. Ours goes in the well deck and the hose goes out through the scupper where it drains perfectly. We fill it with a watering can.
  12. Thanks Mike. I could throw a stone and hit the Black Country from here, so I'm hoping to be able to get the metalwork done more locally. I'm thinking I might struggle to get as far as the southern end of the Oxford until they refill the canals, although the red warning of biblical rains can't be too far behind the current red warning of spontaneous combustion of the elderly can it?
  13. Not much in the way of network canals neither, so I've had to be a bit flexible to go narrowboating! I'm looking around bottom of the Shroppie, Staffs and Worcs atm. Happy to cruise elsewhere if necessary, but I'm not sure there's enough water to go much further!
  14. Hadn't thought they might do flues, so I'll have a look. Thanks.
  15. Ah yes, saw the boat recently I think. Thanks 👍 They're just chimneys though, aren't they? It's the flue inside I'm looking to change. Food for thought, many thanks. 👍
  16. Well, it's not just a tape measurement as there are 2 sets required which need to be in the right place and at the correct angles. The way to do it, I think, is to screw 3 pieces of batten together to the correct profile. Whilst I doubt a Chandler is the place to get it done, and the shape of the old one is not the shape I need, a decent metal worker could probably work to my template. However, if the finished article then isn't quite the fit either of us would hope for, there's an issue to overcome. Combine all that with what I said about my 'to do' list, and I think you'll see why I'm looking at this being a job I'm content to pay someone else to do for me, both to measure and to make, preferably also to fit. You may think that profligate, but I'm thinking it may be the best balance of my time versus monetary resouce. Of course, I could flog myself to death or even choose instead to pay someone else to do some other boat maintenance I have lined up, work on my house, finish getting the roadster back on the road, take the missus on holiday, go to the wedding I have to attend in August or a host of other things but, all things considered, I'm still thinking the flue is the right choice for me.
  17. That's not a difficult place for me to get to even if it involves a journey to measure up and a later visit to get the thing in. Thanks for the tip.
  18. Thank you for the various info above folks. My current mild steel, black painted flue has ten years on the clock and is in good shape - another like it would do nicely. My issue is that, whilst there is a slight kick to correct the angle where it meets the collar at the deck head, at the bottom it exits the cast iron stove top collar at about 5 degrees, placing some stress there which has eventually caused that casting to crack at the lip. Not to the extent it could leak, and removing a bite and re- cementing has ensured all is functioning properly. However, the flue really needed a slight kick there to be dead right. I have a new collar ready to go, so I could just pop that in and go keep the existing flue, bit I thought I'd turn the challenge into an opportunity(!) and take the stove out, replace the tiles with some smart new ones, and then pop it back in with the new casting and a stress free flue. With my 'to do' list already being sufficient to keep me from being bored, I thought the flue job might be the right one to get someone else in for. A kind offer indeed. Aylesbury is maybe a bit of a stretch at the mo, but I'll tuck that offer away in case of a rainy day. Thanks again
  19. Can anyone recommend someone who can measure up and manufacture a single skin 4 inch flue, either black painted steel or stainless? Reasonable radius from Autherley junction at the bottom of the Shroppie preferred so they can get to me to measure up, otherwise somewhere there's water in the cut if I need to go to them! Thanks in advance.
  20. So, when they inevitably go bust, move on, shuffle off, or whatever, what happens to "their" archive? Not very difficult for them to retain a certified copy for their own purposes if they feel it that important I'd have thought.
  21. Have you ruled out it being a failed regulator? My recent alternator issue was cured by this easy replacement job - turned out to be a broken brush which is part of the regulator assy. Lancashire Rotating Electrics identified the component and supplied it, so I'd add a+1 to @Tracy D'arth Tracy's recommendation. Fair bit cheaper than a new alternator!
  22. Beta do move with the times re their oil spec. I think my original manual said CD, but rather than dictate, say, CD or the CF spec referred to above, they now say 'minimum properties of', so CD might have been superceded by CF but CG is fine too for example. They also used to say mineral oil only, but they've changed that to allow semi-synthetic now too. Check out their website.
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