jonesthenuke

If attention to the O rings does not fix it, dismantle the pump and look at the valves. Check for any muck on the flaps and seats. The valves have to seal or air leaks back to the cassette. It may be worth turning the rubber flaps over to give a new sealing face.

Good luck with fixing it. Once you fix the issues they work very well, ours now holds vacuum for over 12 hours.

If you moor at Etruria, the Holy Inadequate is a good pub.

Constant cycling is usually a vacuum leak. First thing to check is whether the water empties from the bowl? The microswitches can be replaced, but do not buy from LeeSan as they are expensive, much cheaper from RS.

We have Moored at Etruria and at Westport several times and its been OK.

The extent of damage to the car and the bridge makes me wonder how fast they were driving (clearly too fast for them to stop)

Lets hope the repair includes complete removal of the masonry from the canal else we will be scraping along the bottom

Is the aperture the size of a rectangular sander? I have a feeling I have seen something like this before.

I agree that would clear the entrance to the lock and perhaps some channel, but would not remove silt from the wider area of the docks. We will have to wait whilst they slowly and expensively dig it out.

Would you not drain the whole canal as well as the basins? I was thinking a large syphon to dump the mud back into the Severn (where it came from) but suspect it is now "waste".

We often moor above the basin near to Lidl where it is quieter than near the lock due to being further from the road. Also, the pub can be quite noisey.

The advice given so far seems sound. In Kinver, moor below the vine as its long term moorings above the lock. If you become short of time I would drop the Stourbridge arm and moor above the Stourton locks.

They seem to have completely rebuilt rather than renovated which I personally think is a shame. The old house had character.

Did this get resolved?

It seems likely the booster was damaged by concrete etc blasted from the pad. Elon reportedly chose not to fit a flame trench or water suppression system like the NASA launch pads to save time and money. It has probably been an expensive but worthwhile gamble and the booster has now been demonstrated to work and it looks like the orbiter was okay up to the altitude where it was expected to separate from the booster, though its not clear whey it did not separate. As noted in the post above its all part of the build and fly quickly to learn fast rather than the ponderous and expensive NASA approach I am looking forward to the next flight, theSpaceX approach does tend to be spectacular, both in the successes and the failures.

RUD is a good phrase and makes me chuckle. Overall it was fun to watch. 9/10 for the booster phase, not so good on the separation and the orbiter flight. I guess they failed to separate.

This is the key issue. I would think CRT charge for the water and presumably the charge is enough to cover the dredging requirements?

We moored our narrowboat in the dock at the pontoons in 2020. As we moved the boat we kicked up a lot of mud. I was surprised to find that it was about 4 feet deep when I dropped a pole over the side. I accept this was near the pontoons but it does suggest a very heavy silt burden was present back then. Given the published draught of 11ft 6 inches for the canal and docks it makes me wonder how much dredging has been done over the last few years.

And the modern so called "petrol" is even worse due to the ethanol that is now added. Its the bane of generators, mowers, strimmers which are used only occasionally.

I had a cassette with the catch missing from the top. I found a suitable screw and a selection of washers would create a feature that the latch would hook onto and this has worked ok for years.

I have seen a similar problem with our Vacuflush. It was due to the cassette moving away from the fully inserted position due to the vibration of the pump. It can be caused by a number of things. A similar fault occurs if the “cassette present” sensor has moved and is no longer close enough to the cassette. Does the pump restart if the cassette is simply pushed hard back into the base unit, this would suggest the above type of fault is present. In any case I would check the following:- Is the catch that holds the cassette in place working correctly? Specifically is it present, undamaged, latching properly etc? Also does the fault occur with all the cassettes that you have? Are both the cassette inlet valve and the mating spout on the base unit clean, undamaged and lubricated? Check the spout seals are not dislodged and the inlet valve on the base unit can be pushed fully in (dislodged seals on the cassette inlet valve can be a problem and cannot be visually inspected without dismantling the cassette, so can go unnoticed) Is the “cassette present” sensor on the base unit in place and not dislodged and pushed back away from the cassette? Is the base unit secure, in particular does the vertical section stay upright or is it loose? Hope this helps.

Loss of vacuum could be from a number of things. What have you tried so far? Does the seal in the toilet keep water in the bowel after flushing?

Whilst I do not want to see a race track along this stretch of canal (or any stretch for that matter) the towpath was very low in places last time we were there and was certainly in need of some improvement before it washed out.

Should you also allow for use of the energy guzzling internet? Just browsing this forum uses energy.

Glad to see it works. Just a suggestion, but there are much better hose clamps, the ones made by Mikalor are very good (see Ebay for suppliers).