baldrick

👍thanks

thanks Steamraise2, the 3mm gap between the governor rod end and the adjuster bolt on the arm, is this with the engine stationary and the spring item 51 in place?

sorry Tony, I meant to ask it of Steamraiser2

Hi Steamraiser2, you mention a 3mm gap between the governor rod end and the adjuster bolt on the arm, is this with the engine stationary and the spring item 51 in place? if this is the case then the spring on mine is definitely wrong, you would be hard pressed to get a feeler gauge between the spring coils and in the correct position between the rod end and the adjuster. Also Is the speeder spring, connected when setting this 3mm gap? Won't any tension on speeder spring try and close the gap (speed up the engine) & the tension on the spring 51 open the gap and slow down/stop the engine. my engine doesn't have the JPM lever with stops built in. It was an Ex MOD searchlight generator unit. it just has the stop lever with the little pin through it to hold the fuel injector pump in the stop position when shutting it down. I have in fact ordered a new speeder spring, bearings and a cam unit (starting and O/speed protection as one isn't fitted to my engine) from MPS & a spring 51 from Primrose so when these arrive I will be able to replace the springs that are fitted and see if there is any improvement.... I am back at the boat tomorrow so can take photos to explain better

I can't see any springs on the governor just 2 fly weights that appear to push on the forked end which in turn pushes the governor rod and moves the shut off lever to slow the engine down

hi Tony, you may well be right, the governor rod runs through the centre of the spring and pushes the lever to slow the engine down if it overspeeds. the spring fitted on mine has so many turns (11 or 12 turns if I remember correctly) that there is hardly any travel of the lever before the spring is fully compressed (all coils are touching) At the moment the engine speeds up quite noticeably then back to idle when moving the gear lever into neutral, for example you are creeping into a lock at tick over, pull the gear lever to neutral to coast the last few feet, the engine will rev up a fair bit then settle back to tick over . which at the moment is a touch to low I think, should it be around 300 to 400 RPM ? Not sure how to measure tick over either... some one said listen and count... ??? I thought of using an optical Tacho that I have for measuring model airplane prop speeds.. stick a strip of white tape on the fly wheel and "jobs a fish' as they say

hello again, I have also ordered the two bearings for the stop lever, am I right in thinking it is just a split pin holding item 40 in place? do I remove the split pin take off the cap and pull the lever off. the shaft item 39... or am I missing something? 🤔 Bengo can you give small order springs a lister part number & they manufacture the spring, or dos you have to give all the dimensions of required item ?

just spoke to Richard at Primrose Engineering & he has stock... Yeah! one is on its way to me as I type this thanks again Tony 👍

thanks Tony will give them a call

Hi there, we recently bought a Steve Hudson trad with a 1947 JP3 fitted by Hudson. I believe the the governor bell crank lever spring (the lever you move to shut the engine down) isn't the correct one. item 51 in the illustration below does anyone know where to get a replacement? I have tried Redshaws, MPS & Slemann & Hawken limited but no one has one. or has anyone got one spare for sale? failing that the dimensions, wire thickness, number of coils of the correct spring