Opener

Another 'thank you' to everyone for the info. Got my CO alarm at home to avoid it annoying the marina neighbours by beeping 'low battery' all Winter. Marked up as 50291: 2001 but its a FireAngel CO-9B which is listed in the BSS leaflet as tested to -2. Nevertheless, I'll have a look at the middle-o-Lidl one.

15+ year old boat / first owner fit out. I've got a combined light and extract fan in the bathroom - only I haven't 'cos the fan no longer rotates freely. The rotor+blades catches on the mounting/motor and I can't see a way of parting the two to remove the obstruction. So, I'm looking for a replacement fan/motor. Labelled MANROSE 12v Showerlite code BSL 112 (its a DC 12v 2.8w fan). Looks like I may be able to get the complete assembly - fan+light+housing at great expense but the non-fan bits are fine. I'm told the fan is obsolete - shame 'cos it looks dead simple. Anybody got a spare bit/fan knocking around? Or any bright ideas? Fan + legs.pdf Fan label.pdf

Yeah - I'd accept that. I guess my problems arise when filling from a waterside tap in the marina. Along a path then along the jetty to my bow. Not long enough to stretch empty but as soon as the water is turned on it makes a dive for the water. Wouldn't be sorted with a hose that stretches dry since, full, there would be even more to dive in the cut. I'm solving with a 'magic' on the path connected to a lay flat but non-expanding on the jetty. Still takes some supervision though. All fine out around the cut though - just zig-zag and trip cyclists.

Have you got a dog?

'Magic' hoses are great in theory but: they are not long enough and will not reach the boat when they are empty / take on a life of their own when you turn the water on and make a dive for the nearest/muckiest patch of water they can find. Dead easy to stow away, though - bucket/bag/box. Next time you are in the hose shop buy a packet of the rubber washers that fit in the tap connector - they leap out and dive in the cut (following the hose). My local B&Q have a special at the moment - a flat flexible hose of about 20m which is as small as a magic but does not contract - standard fittings.

I reckon our previous owner got sick of the clips since there are only two per board plus a stash of spares in the mini drawers underneath. (Can't claim to have spotted kitchen maker - SWMBO was passing........)

Your doors/plinth look very much like ours. Are you having trouble keeping the kickboard in place? Those black bits of plastic in the slot on the back of the kickboard are what is left of the fixing system. There should be a black plastic spring clip on each which clips around the cupboard legs. A couple per board should suffice. I think the units look like Ikea although I can't see the relevant clips listed on line. However, they do list a 'Metod' ventilation grill is you do not want to go down the mousehole route. (More than one item identified as Metod - add 'kickboard')

Try watching a narrowboating vlog via YouTube - and seems to pop up in every second advert break at the moment. Various types available some of them powered. But they are in kit form so every cog, nut, bolt and belt required - build it yourself.

I like the thick, black (expensive) Gorilla tape. It's quite thick so should take up any surface irregularities. Seems to last quite well outside as well.

If this is clear and a couple of inches wide, Wickes do a version if you have a nearby branch. I made a roof for my garden shed with double walled acrylic sheet and ran this tape down the ridge. One length on each side then one length to bridge the other two. The walls of the shed are disintegrating but the roof is still watertight.

Seriously but 🙂. A lot depends on boat construction and/ or layout. Our front doors are easier than rear hatch but there is a galley and shower room in the way. 'Rollups' make the job easier but definitely a two person job for a full size. Can be made easier with a couple of straps across the width. Gives handlers something to hold onto. But all worth the effort - we started off with a lump of foam on hardboard. Now spring interior on slats. 😁

Easy - but depends on how big a tin opener you've got 🥴.

Until you get the hatch sorted, buy a colourful shoelace. Fold in half and pass the centre loop up through the D handle. Pass the free ends up through the loop and pull tight. As you exit the boat through a part open hatch you will now be tickled in the face by a shoelace which is less painful that being smacked in the head by a steel hatch.

Been reading the BBC website item about the lifeboat launch to rescue four in a rowing boat travelling from Wales to Ireland. 😲

" There is currently no water in the system, radiators need reconnecting. I was only trying to light the pilot briefly as a test. " - I'd GUESS that that should not compromise your test. When working the boiler main burner cycles. Burner on = heat - water in boiler gets heated - reaches set temperature (how far round the black knob is set) switches off gas to burner - water cools/pumped around circuit - thermostat senses drop in temp - gas to burner - ignites via pilot. I'd reckon that a SHORT period with the pilot lit - even with the main burner on - should not be detrimental - but a short period otherwise you will be trying to burn the water jacket.

Step 1 - what MtB says. I don't even bother with the Alde first any more. Always purge the gas line first by lighting the hob. THEN try the Alde. It still takes a while to purge that shorter arm. Step 2 - if you are sufficiently flexible, grovel on the floor looking through the sight glass whilst pressing your contact switch (don't bother about gas at this stage) - are you getting a healthy spark at the electrode? I've found over a few years of ownership that the spark generator module is practically a disposable item. It does not seem to like Winter-long neglect and if you have not ego-massaged yours for a couple of years it may be sulking. Replacement may be the answer. [I've got a telltale lamp in circuit with my manual switch so I have an indication of sparking without the need to grovel on the floor quite as much]

Can't see any mooring rings - hope he finds one soon.

One down side of caravanning we found was making up the bed every day/evening. Definite plus on a boat is that the bed is there and ready when we want it. Sometimes used during the day as a comfortable reading base. We are 50ft/cruiser stern. Sounds like, however, you are used to 'making' the bed every day so maybe that is not an issue. Have you got somewhere convenient/sensible to store the pillows/sheets/duvet/act during the day?

Can I slightly hijack this thread with my own question (on behalf of others who do not have fixed solar available)? for Winter I drain down water already in the system. Used to drain the tank to the dregs but got sick of that - watching paint dry much more exciting!! Blow pipes through, leave taps open, close water tank feed, blinds drawn and window vents closed. After some thought I think I know the answer to my question but I'd like someone to contradict and tell me its a brilliant idea. Here goes: a. one of those portable solar panels you can link up to your 12v battery to trickle charge it - aimed at vehicles that do not go far very often. b. a small fan heater such as those designed for clearing vehicle windscreens - they plug into cigar lighter socket. I've got a nice South facing window with no neighboring boat (at the moment) so I'd fix the panel in that window and link to the fan. OK - daytime working only but it would stir up the air and provide very limited warmth. I'm not aiming for a temperature in the teens comfortable to sit in - just take the chill off if it gets really cold in my absence. If it gets too balmy, surplus heat would exit via mushrooms/door vents/chimney. The catch, to my ignorant eye, is that the panel pumps out up to about 20W and the fan uses around 100 to 150W. So would I get any worthwhile effect and does anyone know of more compatible kit - fan or panel - without getting into silly money for limited effect. I've already got a greenhouse heater on thermostatic control / shoreline but would like to augment with something lightweight.

It came along the towpath - didn't you see it? ["Horses for courses" - do keep up!!]

Depends upon your definition of 'effective' - does what it says on the box/tin. It absorbs moisture. In fact, it will absorb up to about 50cc. Then it will stop or, at least, it might do. I had a similar one in a cold corner of the house until just last week. Found that it was full to the brim with 'moisture' and had overflowed onto a sensitive surface - not impressed! It's all going to depend upon how 'wet' your boat is. I've always been a bit skeptical about trying to keep damp free a steel box full of holes (mushrooms vents/door grills/windows) which floats on water. All you are doing is moving the moisture from outside inside and capturing it. Boat-wise, I have had two rechargeable dehumidifiers on board (nominal 50ft, cruiser stern) for years. They are a simple plastic trough about 7-8" by 3" by a couple of inches deep. Slatted compartment at the top which I fill up with 'Damp Kontrol Krystals' as required (after emptying liquid from trough). I've augmented that with a couple of the el cheapo disposable ones at around £1 a pop. I've also added a Unibond Aero 360. OK - a bit over the top but the boat smells fresh and dry at every visit with no obvious signs of damp where it should not be. So, in answer to your original question: 'yes'. If we are talking about a boat, I'd guess you'd need about a couple of dozen of that size to have any effect and replace every couple of months (if you're lucky).

Quite agree - on efficacy question and about horses. I was always conscious of cold feet in the cold evenings and overpowering heat at head height when I stood up or walked back into the lounge area. Since AOF (advent of the fan), things are a lot more even - feet not necessarily warmer but there is a much reduced heat gradient between seated body and standing head. and a fan is a very effective early warning of the need to add fuel.

That's the one I've got. Had it a few years so guessing I got it from large DIY shop with b and q in it's name. Switches dependent device on or off manually or set it to auto to power up at temperatures between zero and 40+ degrees (adjustable). Takes AAA battery so ignores power cuts. Weirdly, creates a small amount of its own heat so not necessarily deadly accurate for switch on temp. Comments from Tony apply to mine as well.

As suggested, the stove is half the story. There are 'consumables'. You need to get the fire going: fire lighters - mine live in an old biscuit/sweetie tin to preserve activity and disguise smell. Kindling - amount depends upon how proficient you become - about a cubit foot. Fuel - my 'coal' lives in a biggish box/seat on the foredeck. Two or three bags in stock - it's dirty! I also keep a days supply by the stove. Drying it out plus handy to load. Glove or tongs to put it in the stove (or mucky hand). Got space under the settee, so instant logs stored there in original plastic - otherwise they'll absorb damp and disintegrate. Ash - what you gonna do with it? OK in marina but what about out cruising? Oh, and gas wand to light stove - much safer thanmatches. Second hand newspaper plus magic spray to clean your door glass periodically - it doesn't make the stove any warmer but boy does it look warmer. Flue thermometer - meaningless but tells you when to load fuel. Stove top fan ??? Opinions vary 🤭.

Not very sophisticated-looking but the lightweight telescopic rods for threading into the bottom or top of net curtains. Sits on lightweight hooks at each end so could be removable for daytime. Quick paint to match your decor.