Anthony Hague

I brought a 63 x 3 oring for the ahead piston, but when putting it on im not sure if I should have had a thicker cross section? cheers Anthony

hi did anyone actually know crazykat? I believe they are the previous owners to the narrowboat I have purchased, the people we brought it from gave us very little information, and im just trying to find out as much as possible. cheers

is there anywhere I can find an exploded diagram?

behing the brass ring that is in two and held together with a circlip Anthony

mostly back together now.. should I still have play/wobble once I have put the shaft back in the main bit of box and tightened the castle nut up? is the a correct torque to do the castle nut up to? after seeing parts prices im scared of damaging anything! Anthony

wow thanks for making it so clear and easy to understand! where can I source a new top gasket? is this something you are able to help me with? thanks again! Anthony

I am pleased to say that after ten minutes of polishing the built up grime off with a piece of fine paper my clutch cone is now sliding freely ! my clutch springs measure 45mm outer 45 mm centre and 46 mm inner, is this good? for the forwards piston, will a new o ring have to be high temp or will a normal one be ok? I would like to upload a couple of pics to show you the condition of my clutch and band brake pads, but I cant for the life of me work out how to .. inbetween the clutch housing(?) and the brass retaining washer that's held together with a circlip I have 0.65mm of freeplay, im a little worried about it, not sure if it is normal... ive sprayed everything down with clutch cleaner so I wasn't sure if the oil may take this space up or if it will be fine once it is all assembled? sorry to be a pain with so many questions but this is my first ever gearbox rebuild. thanks for all the help! anthony

some good bits of inspiration

sounds good, ill be up early to crack on with it.. any ideas on why it might be sticking? cheers Anthony

yeah its about 10mm where it starts sticking.. I can make it slide up and engaged but its not a very smooth movement. there are no signs of rivets showing on the cone and it looks to be in good condition. my brake band is around that thickness but has a few grooves worn it(not mad maybe 10% coverage and not deep) as to me having it assembled correctly I am not 100% sure, it was rebuilt before I bought it (supposedly) and I still have it assembled in the order I took apart. I cannot find a detailed lh 150 manual or an exploded parts view or anything, best I have got is the adjustment procedure in the sr3 manual... any idea on the length my springs should be? ill measure them in the morning and post back if I haven't heard anything cheers again. I will try using emery cloth on the splines carefully to see if I can get them sliding freely

yes it was just the o ring that was damaged on the oil pump, and I have previously wondered about the clutch springs but I cannot find anywhere that specifies what size they should be? I also still had plenty of adjustment left between the piston and arm. I am also struggling to find what the max/min thicknesses are for both the forward cone and the reversing band clutch.. one thing that I have noticed that strikes me as a potential issue is that the cone slides easily down the splines until about 10mm away from being engaged, then hits a really tight spot and doesn't want to slide any further, I wonder if this is physically disabling it from engaging?. I have visually checked the splines and they don't appear to be damaged in any way. (although I presume they must be warped somehow if this isn't normal?) is it normal for it to get tight there? thank you for all of the information so far! hope to learn more! wish me luck

hi, I am also stripping a lister lh150 gearbox. It hadn't been run for years and had sat on shore. when I got it, it ran great. after a few hours driving I was really struggling to find reverse at all, so I checked my oil levels and realised I had lost a significant amount of oil, it appeared to be seeping out of the back plate of the forward piston, so I drained the remaining oil from the box and refilled it with SAE 80 - 90, (was mid journey home of my first narrow boat drive and I just wanted to get back so decided to continue on, regularly checking my oil) it ran okay for a number of hours (and got me home) but seemed that anything over 1/3 throttle appeared to slip instead of putting any drive through. this slowly got worse and worse and now will hardly spin the prop at all. After reading a lot of yours and others posts, I decided that it must be clutch plates. but now I have it apart they don't appear to be particularly bad(not like the ones you have posted photos of) but they where covered in oil that appeared very thick and dirty, and the grooves in the metal plates where densely clogged. Im not sure if this clutch is meant to be covered in oil or not..?! the reverse band has around 1.5mm of pad on which is grooved a little, the forward cone has around 2mm which appears in good condition. any advise at all would be great! thanks in advance Anthony