BD3Bill

Don't forget to leave your water tank half full ( or half empty, depends on you ) or empty. If you have an isolator tap between the tank & pump turn it off, if you don't, fit one ! A full tank will burst if it freezes... ETA add & correct

Drain it. Get a sacrificial gallon in a can. Pour it in the empty tank, & drain it again. Put another gallon or two in and go to, as mentioned, a high turnover source. Then run the engine for a couple of hours. Then drain the filter & agglomerator bowl/bowls. Run the engine again. Now replace you fuel filter/s. Fill the tank back up to the top. Put a tin can or tea mug over the tank breather. Good Luck !

You'd be well off getting the BSS examiner who passed the Boat in 2012 to come and do it again when it's next due. Much simpler, even if it means moving the boat some way, or paying extra travelling.

I had a similar problem of low volts/drop with our ickle old Isotherm fridge. Too many nasty little bits of wire, choc bloks, domestic 240v switch, fuse holder off a car radio ! blah blah... Changed the nasty single core 240v "bell wire" to 20amp thinwall twin flexy (Vehicle Wiring Products), proper switch, decent waterproof fuse holder. And of course bingo! No more problems. For a moment I did think, ooh-err, new leisure batteries needed, I wonder how many folk have lashed out on new ones coz the fridge wasn't working ? Cheers !

If you have a really good look under that feeder bridge you will see it has a 'bar' across the stream. It strikes me this is there to actually prevent the cut leaking away up the long feeder. IMHO. I'm pretty certain that Boddington only discharges into the cut when it's getting overfull, but I bow to those with better knowledge. Clattercote doesn't feed either anymore, it's over spill goes south and under the cut between Claydon bottom and Elkingtons as far as I can see ( having explored on foot) It's old feeder entered just north of the Hay bridge moorings on the sharp bend south of the lift bridge. However I would say that in real terms the only spare supply for the Summit is Wormleighton and they did virtually drain it the summer before last, all be it after lots of moaning calls & emails. If you feel the level is too low PLEASE pester CaRT ! Tasty thread !

Cool, thanks for the replies folks!

Anybody been boating on the canals & rivers of Poland ?

Twas not us mate. Cheers !

And he has recently dredged said hole at his expense, be nice if CRT dredged some of theirs ? X'd posts

One of the reasons we bought our boat was the previous owner recounted how the boat had resisted an attack. The hobo then broke into the next boat, drank all the whiskey and ate all the tinned dog food...

Interestingly I went past a moored boat, on the increasingly shallow South Oxford, the other day, and the occupant actually said "there was no need to slow down that much, but you engine does sound lovely on tickover" It's a funny old game ...

They will go further than that. They can impound the road vehicle, they strip the engine and can tell how much Red has been put through. The red dye stains stuff in the engine over time. They can they fine you for the mileage they believe you have done... plus a fine on top for being norty. Lorry drivers regularly get their tanks 'dipped' by HMRC patrols.

Fairplay ! Have a good day.

I am posting this useful information for the benefit of all, but especially BD3 owners ( and open minded people). The repair kit you should note is Sparex p.n. S57135. The other thread I shared this in got locked. NOT my fault btw ! I DO know the pump being discussed on that thread differs... slightly. I learnt something today, and I am sharing it for those who are interested, I guess the point is these pumps are very simple and easily rebuilt without running off and spending £100's at a diesel specialist. Even if the pump in the other thread IS different, THIS is useful knowledge to someone. Cheers Bill P.S. Acknowledge Tony Dunkley for pointing me into further research viz the hidden gauze filter/piston/spring on the inlet side of the pump.

I shall leave this here... Watch it until at least 15mins, it's nearly an hour, but bloody good ! I shall thank Mr Dunkley for telling us this useful info, I DO appreciate it, I have worked on old Ford Tractors and have a BD3 in our boat. I did not know there was a filter IN the injector pump, again thank you ! The old guy in the YT link shared the part number for the repair kit, It's a Sparex kit, part number S57135. I have ordered one from my local New Holland dealer today ! :0) Then I have it IF the problem ever occurs.... I'm like that :0) Cheers and thanks again, Bill ETA the pic for the link actually, and coincidentally has his grubby digit pointing at where the filter is haha!

Maybe a pair of smaller radiators fitted with Kenlowe type electric fans ? I share the view that any H/E will soon block up, which is a shame as v efficient idea. Could you fit a tank to pump canal water in/out and hook up the H/E to that? A Calorifier would work, sort of in reverse though, if you know what I mean? Impressed with your grip on engineering btw

In the nicest possible way those little windows are not going to tell you very much about the state of play with your batteries, you need at very least a simple volt meter to tell how much voltage you have.

Buy an old fashioned string head mop. Buy an old fashioned galvanised mop bucket. Fill bucket with water from the Cut. Wet the mop in the bucket. Rub the boat with the mop, every so often you will need to rinse the mop in the bucket. When the water is dirtier than the canal throw it back in the canal and get some more. Continue until boat is cleaner than it was. Canal water contains very fine silt, this is very mildy abrasive...

I like Banjo music me boy... Pleeeese can I run my engine until I have some hot water? Always a good thread the engine running one. :0) Is that a euphemism or euphoniumsm?

Agreed. Sounds a bit rum altogether this story. How on earth can the yard quote when they haven't seen the job? Who has told the OP the base is down to 4mm? Sounds like the yard are preparing to stitch the OP right up. Different job I know, but we only paid £1200 + vat to have the boat craned out, sides+uxter blasted, two pack to the sides+uxter of hull on a 45ft boat. I'm pretty sure it broke down as 400/400/400.

http://www.gr8fires.co.uk/gbs-mariner-4-kw-multi-fuel-stove-6206 Had one of these for two years, great value small stove IMHO.

Looking at the picture on the right IMHO it's the angle the chimney is at in the collar causing the bother. You are going to need a length of flexi chimney liner to make an inner for the outside chimney, or very good fabrication skills. If you just cut it so it is flush you will still get condensation inside the outer chimney pot. You could really do with a bend inside the cabin so the flue exits the collar parallel, then a double skin pot would fit and work as others described. Cross post with Biz, nice one ...

Oooh, they do a bigger one too ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181698470895?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Oooh no. Very black our little tug, VERY black, & not very glossy at all. So the chalky quite suits/fits. All the best mate

Don't be disappointed if the 2 pack looks a bit chalky when it's done, this time of year/temperature/moisture isn't ideal but it will still be a fit for purpose coating. We had ours blasted & epoxied 3 years ago at this time of year & it has always looked chalky but is still intact.