Musetta37

Sorted now, is in fact a 120! Same seal though, my paperwork is wrong.

Bearing and seal suppliers are stocking products and presumably having the same stock/cost issues, so how can they sell for a 1/4 of the price as OE? Unfortunately Calcutt only had a seal/gasket kit, but I agree, keen prices.

Go to a commercial vehicle body builder if you know of any. I used to be in the trade and used wisa deck or enzo deck (think that's what it's called) same stuff my boards are made of, it's resin bonded and lasts for years, just paint the edges. Fully waterproof, used on truck and trailer body floors.

Stick a batten with no nails, when it's dry, screw your wood.

It is cobalt blue It's an RAL colour, a lot of places wont match it

I want to re paint the boat roof, it is finished with gloss over sand and is a bit tired, any tips for getting a good key for new gloss?

Ignition problem now fixed. It was a cracked electrode insulation. By holding the electrode with a pair of insulated pliers near to the pilot, the spark was strong, as soon as the electrode was inserted into the holder, the spark disappeared, so was shorting inside the housing. A new electrode did the trick. Thanks for everyone's input.

not on the boat at the mo, spark was pretty weak ,didn't notice the colour, I suppose 20 years life wasn't bad before replacing anything.

I'll check it all again, seems odd that it fired up perfectly after re-assembly and then wouldn't work again though. Thanks for your advice.

I'm sure you're right Tony, I figured if I compared the readings at each end of the electrode wire (with a digital AVO) I could rule out a wire fault. As I'm getting a spark at the electrode I figured the igniter must be working but not sure if the piezo can go weak or fails completely. As the electrode is the cheapest part I'm starting with that. Sadly my training with the electronic side of these systems involved replacing and not testing.

The igniter is sounding more likely based on your experiences , any idea what current it sends out and i'll measure mine.

Hi Tony, Wiring appears good, obviously it's sheathed, so unless the wire got broken when I moved the burner unit I'm assuming its ok, haven't put a meter on it yet, but will. I didn't have one with me when I wason the boat. all connections look good. apart from the earth ring terminal, the only wire I diconnected was at the switch.

Cheers WotEver, that's not cheap! I'll fit the electrode first! fingers crossed.

I have just serviced my Alde boiler, re assembled and fired it up, all ok. However when i tried to re-light it 10 minutes later ,the igniter was intermittent, about 1 spark every 20 seconds or longer. I put a screwdriver from the electrode tip to closer to the pilot housing and got a weak spark but it wouldn't jump across with the regular gap (this wasn't touched during the service) I have just ordered a new igniter electrode assuming this is the problem. If i touch the wire up at the plastic housing, I get a 'Whizz' when the light is flashing so I assume it is sending out the current to the electrode. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I have had training in servicing these, by the way.

The best stuff I found was a primer called "Iron guard" now called "Steel Bond". Can't remember who makes it, I bought some about ten years ago from a company called Ludlows of Luton.It is used on oil rigs etc. Preperation is simple, just scrape off loose paint and rust and try and remove bitumin completely as it bleeds with wet primer. the primer is still on the hull after 10 years, even at the water line. I like to remove rust completely before any treatment as I don't believe rust treatment claims, but the makers of this stuff claim there is no need.