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Sir Percy

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Everything posted by Sir Percy

  1. More Robbie Cummings Canal Boat Diaries on Beeb 4 at half past, btw.
  2. No central heating, no water (small forecabin). Useful note on gas / electricity, thanks - a gas pipe exists at gunwale height. I'll either separate off, or more likely run wiring on other side.
  3. No, I'm planning to have a box channel running along the underside of the gunwale.
  4. I posted the other day about flooring to lay on top of these boards in the picture below (and thanks to responses, I'm getting in vinyl samples and catalogues) - thinking ahead to the lining, I'm wondering about how to finish at the meeting with the floor. I was just going to go with a skirting board flush to the floor, but as I've got boards on either side which should be lift-uppable for inspection / bilge maintenance, I paused for thought. Maybe I should leave a little gap to to be able to lift the board without needing to remove the skirting board. Shouldn't need much, as the board is 16" wide. That got me to thinking, why have a skirting board at all, if it doesn't meet the floor? Just leave a gap (which would also allow for movement?). Any reason for going one way or the other, apart from preference for looks? edit: forgot to say, a bit more of a gap might allow for later retro-fit of a solid-wood floor.
  5. Thanks - yes, I'd been reading this page - was there a form/template for the Operating Proposal, or did you hand-craft your own?
  6. Hi, Is anyone here a CRT-licenced trader? I was just wondering what more there was beyond paying for your licence. Any inspections, or paperwork required for example? This was just in regard to general trading, i.e., not carrying passengers or having the public enter your boat. TIA
  7. Think it's where boards join where you might need to be concerned - which is why Celotex recommend staggered joins. Try jumping up and down on the edge.
  8. What a pain. Less of a pain on a widebeam, but still.
  9. Oh, I see. I don't know, but I'm not sure that laying anything directly on top of celotex would be advisable. Have you got advice on this from somewhere?
  10. If you laid a sheet of hardboard over the subfloor, would that work?
  11. Is it the little square dongle with the yellow edge? I've got one of those, was thinking of getting onto their 100Gb @ £20 / month plan currently advertised.
  12. @blackrose - that seems to be one advantage of lino over vinyl: durability @Slim - thanks for the tip-off
  13. Haven't read of anything - in fact, I think there's maintenance involved with lino (which might just be a wipe of Linseed oil) You mean it doesn't take well to flexing?
  14. I'm weighing up flooring options at the moment. Forecabin (sleeping area) has a hexagrip floor, 6'x8' boards running lengthwise in the centre, 16" wide boards either side which are removable for inspection of the bilge. I'm thinking of vinyl sheet, which would be floating, not glued down (possibly stapled around the edges. Should be durable and easily maintained, I reckon. Anybody have any experience of vinyl or even lino?
  15. bolt some square tube underneath, that'd stiffen it up.
  16. What quantity of Buffalo Board do you need?
  17. I've considered plugging, but wouldn't do it on the thin type of t&g that I've removed. Again, it comes down to what you're prepared to pay for. I've only a small cabin to line out, so had a look at stretching to hardwood t&g, but the nice stuff had an eyewatering minimum order.
  18. I did think the video quality was a bit murky.
  19. Thanks, if I go with glue, I think what I could do is fix to sections of ply, clamping/weighting, before mounting the whole assembly to the battening.
  20. Ah, sounds interesting. I'll into them, thanks.
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