Jrtm

Severners were fully welded, the bow looks right, no pice of the sturn so unable to tell if they cut the middle or the sturn, can tell its old as the plates are all bent between the knees. traditionaly they had the cabins the otherwise round had engine at back and beds / cabin in front. Seam a tad high priced although I remember a josher (beginning with s) with full conversion being for sale at over 100k think was 120k. And Chiswick a few years ago was at 80+k when advertised

I made one from dog choke chain

Peacock has the same sort of chain but black iron. I'm trying to see if a local guy will copy a photo of the chain, I but I would say that was a fmc supplied chimney and chain as its the same as on Peacock and both the upper loop and lower loops are the same as the pics

I have a jig to do this its a steel jig with leather inserts to protect the brass, all parts a fully sanded then polished before bending, then once everything is shaped and then republished. It also allows me not to have to hammer (press) marks and keeps all bends constant flow (no odd flat spots on the bends) I have jigs for the d link and jigs for cutting and for the 2 parts of the link. Everything is hand made, but the jigs help to get everything all the same i know you do get verified parts but I find people these days expect every mm of items to be the same. I did a chimney a while back all hand rolled and hand riveted due to hand riveting each were very slightly different the 3 brass rings and the half round again were wrapped drilled then individually riveted and then slid over and tapped on. They guy I sold and made it for returned it as the rivets as he said (dented and not all smooth) and the gap between the rings was not constant when I measured the ring position spacing there was 1.5mm difference between the 2 gaps between the 3 rings and the top half round was the same gap as the top ring gap. I later sold it and the next buyer was happy. If you look at Sarah's on ebay they are the other way around in the middle

Thanks I've got 2mm, you have one off the odd backwards ones, i could never work out why some have the middle this way or the flat bit on the other way. I'll stick with 2mm then and see how I get on. Your looked a little narrow too bit like mine was some have a really wide center. Thanks dave

Yes that the ones, I've got the simple ones I've got lots of these infact I have 2 sets and a few spares of these its the double link ones I only had 1 of and had to cut it up to make my new ones, jigs are all made to make the hook and the d link but the middle link I can't find. I have photos but no thickness measurements

Not fully finished but almost on part 1 needs a good polish out. All copied from an original. I'm still not 100% happy with my centre join, If any one has an early one can the measure the thickness of the brass joint between the d link and this clip. I've made mine a little narrower but it the thickness I've not got. I took mine apart along time ago and now can't find the middle bit, I have the d link and clip to copy

Lol its if I go up to 3k or 5k grit and then machine polish or leave them at 1-2k grit and then just machine polish them or just machine polish them. 1-2k is better will give a high polish shine but not in your face mirror im shiny after a good few hand polishes would prob come out every sim to old ones but would have no marks or dents or cast pits in. 3-5k would give that mirror shine (would take years to give an old look) Just polish as are would give a good shine but be a little matted still show odd marks and pits odd scratches. But after a while of polishing these would pick up shine from hand polishing and the marks and pits would just blend in a bit after a bit would just look as if we're old than just come off self.

Well I've finally got my ass into gear and started to sort out brass link copies, I've made 1 mistake in that the earlyer link im making I'm not 100% about the middle brass join. unfortunately I've only got a part original to copy from and in my haste I've ordered some brass that now looking is around 2-3mm to narrow and pos should have been 1-1.5mm not 2mm for the center join but ill still continue, My biggest problem is the sides do I round them off or do I copy original. I've got the d link and the bottom half directly copied from an original and apart from old brass vs new is bang on and near identical size (d link is all hand made too not pre bought i couldn't get the consistency and good quality high enough with a low price) and the shape is as I've made a jig so every single one comes out the same, I've also got a jig for bending the middle and I've now managed to bend this and the join it all with getting constant results with no marks on the brass. Once I've done the earlyer set I'll then give the later one a go I've got 2 sets of originals to copy for that. Once I'm done I'll post pics but hopefully in a few weeks (just into the new year) I should have the first 2 chains ready to sell I've got a mark of around £7.50 a link at the mo but I'll post and see what you think of quality. I'm just torn as to how polished to make them.

Yep most were

Oh yer I wasn't tying to put dave work down!

There going quick!

I have some 12mm x 6mm stainless

My spare chimney has got its top ring missing should these be steel, ally or stainless? I've got a few but there all painted white and unable to tell material but I'm unable to tell what material they are i thought they were ment to be ally?

I did look as these and was very tempted then I got a message about the Clayton one

I thought it looked like a boat yard Norton crains? Looks like it from sign. Got a few what measures to be bolly size exhausts. The cans ect look quite nice

Sneek peak of my new toy, well 1 of 3 new toys!! Just like to note there are about 3-4 nice looking water cans and 2 handbowls on ebay at the moment, nice condition (not sure of age) but reasonable price too, think was £70 for a painted hand bowl and around 80-120 for each can

Anyways least its now sold to hopefully another person who will love her

I did Yes lol, Too much for my brain today lol

Secondi had no clue

Second

Because alot of people don't know who owns what boats, I'm buggered if I know who owns every working boat or tug or what there faces are or even the names or worst forum names. The fact you have a pic stood on the back means nothing, I could up load lots of pics of me on the back of boats don't mean I own them might just be a nice pic of me

Thanks got it, ill have to find my rpm checker to set these its around somewhere probably on the boat after working on national

Yes thats the one, on the fixed no 32 just has a nut on the end! On variable it has a joiner then a screw, by looks you set screw to idle speed then if you accelerate it pulls that lever out, I'm guessing if I keep the stop lever you would just push this down to kill the engine. Thank you you diagrams have helped. I'll build my own version of a marine lever so it works off the stock governor screw I have. Thank you!!!!!

Its ok I've now found a video showing speed control on a marine engine, its controlled speed wise from the governor adjusting screw, I don't know why but mine would control the speed for the load on the generator, so no load it slowed the engine but put load on it sped it up. So I assumed this was how to control the speed was from this lever! This was wrong. It had fixed speed but just slowed the speed by cutting fuel with no load. I'll now set about making a speed lever off the governor screw but use the correct spring a weights.