Jrtm

At the moment its not for a boat its so i can finish building the new riveted stacks for peacock and a few sets of short brass ones made from artillery shells i know they fit but to make them i need to keep taking them on and off then doing a few rivets and fitting ect. I then need it to know how many brass ones i can make from each shell think last time i got away with 2 as one just had a thicker wall than the other. After that unless the boat i have dosnt have a bolinder coller it will go onto that to put it back to having one on. If it already has one ill give it back to who ever i got/bought it from I will then pos build a few more and sell them off cheap to cover the materials

The benefit was that olimpic was unsea worthy and would never pass another inspection. + olimpic just cost them nearly double the cost of building so why not sink a un usable ship and get the money back. After the sinking make big changes to the other ship (good way to cover up any changes needed for years of people looking closly at the sister ship incase a photo catches them out)

Best way to see the diffrence was A deck titanic open A deck olimpic half open B deck titanic even windows B deck olimpic uneven windows Bow 14 holes titanic Bow 15 on olimpic A deck looks very enclosed to me.

Hi pete yes i had remembered. Was just saying the only other was pearl (bolinder reference got the pearls mixed up sorry) Only reason i mentioned it. Been reading on history about bolinder seams they looks at bukh but didnt like there system and wanted direct injection then built the 1050 series I know tim said before that tay had a 1051 fitted. This might explain why the very late photos a tay are her on her own as there only rated at 11.5hp

I spent a lot of time with Tay and Tony Phillips when he bought her from Claytons in the 60s. In those days there was a single pot cold start Bolinder fitted, 9hp if I recall, perhaps the 1051 model. No starter fitted, a brisk crank on the starting handle and off it went. Hope this helps, I don't know what happened subsequently other than a major rebuild of the hull at Malkins Bank in the 90s. I last saw her at Anderton Marina a few years ago. Lots of memories! Dave Quoted. Just found out it was def a bolinder engine. John jinks told my dad it wasnt really powerfull enough. The engine was removed for a rebuild but the company went bust and the engine scrapped by mistake. Dad didnt think there was another one like it used so pearls must have been bigger or a diffrent engine. But dad didnt think it was a 5010 series. Appart from the 1130 series what others around that time did they make?

I got told towy was a part share boat by my dad although that could have changed. Can you post details as ill ring them as im intrested. (Any tco boat or wooden fmc boat for that matter but my want is fairly limited totco and fmc)

As was told it was a cold start engine. But a single cylinder (why i wondered about a 1051 bolinder as it looks like a single from the way they make the heads as unlike listers the use 1 cover for every 1-2 cylinders not every cylinder. Also the pic i have seen very late on shows a 2 maybe 3 inch exhaust coller on the oposite side to a bolinder semi. I dont know why im asking as very intrested as to what claytons started to change later on. I also noticed that some boats tay included at least in the mid 50s has a handrail in the hand rail some were thin steel some (stours was quite thick and brass) some didnt have any just normal.

I was wrong its only 1 pic i have seen the other you can just see the rope and the very tip of the bow. 11hp seffle. Diffrent im asuming it wasnt a semi seffle like in severn.

We use to have a few like this they use to sit on the fuel tank. There are a few like this on other boats i have access to as well.

Im more than convinced it was a cover up either people paid off or people threatened. Im more than 100% sure on a ship that size the workers would have known. Put a tool down in a set place next day its gone. Left a mark on a wall or not painted something ect far to easy to miss but easy to miss if you have been silanced or thrown off a job and sacked. As if a worker came saying they swapped boat ect ect most would just go just coz you couldnt do your job ect. At the same time when the olimpic was broken up was there any sign of any previous damage?

Thought i better open a new topic rather than get of topic on other ones. Intrested in the replacement engine claytons put in her. Have been told was a single pot cold start engine (anyone know what make it was) If it was a bolinder 105- the 1&2 both look like a single pot as they just lengthend the parts so a 1052 sort of looks like a single pot. Its was def fitted near the end of clayton days. Tay use to run with a butty but the only pics ive found of her are as a single motor (is this because the engine claytons fitted wasnt powerfull enough to pull a bitty or just coz they were winding down there boat travel) Is a 1051 bolinder powerful to pull a butty? Tco pearl also was the only other boat to be fitted with a non semi bolinder later on were these the same (pearl is noted for later having a 1053 fitted) Intrested as intrested in all tco history (i will one day buy the name off my dad)

Im really upset about it as ive always wanted a wooden fmc boat and its really annoying knowing i can never have one as there are only 3 fmc ones left. I know there are a few thomas clayton Uxbridge built boats left but its still really annoying!!! Have to pray one come up.

Had to give up on beech. With the work needed were only able to aford to give 5k for her and dont think the owner is going to sell her for that as she is asking 15k.

Think i need hitting with a wet fish. Is kent still for sale? I know shes had alot of work recently year ago. Anything anyone knows of a good reason not to go look at her? Its wooden dosnt count.

My other concerns would be licance costs once its been raised and worked on its then normally if you have a butty a second boat to licance and its soon turns into 2+k a year for the pair then there is the mooring costs if you could find a nice place at 300 a boat far more would be saved but some where like avecote is near 3k a year 2 boats thats suddenly 8k for licance and mooring! I know you can do it cheaper but on average it would be 2-3k per boat.

Something like this is very exciting to me, The problem would be cost of any rebuildung needed all the wooden boats would need full rebuilds (not cheap) then you have the iron boats this is fine but most are butties and yes people want them but most would be converted into a motor and sold for profit not to be kept. I would live to get hold of one but its the work after that would cost the earth to start with and its a that i think that would hold most people back. Yes you could start a trust to get some money to get them out but most public dont see a boat as a national treasure and theres not exactly tv program after program about them or a particular famous boat ect (why i think railways get far more money the public car react and relate to them better)

Hadent thought of that.

You could do it cheaper by just doing the bottoms and not replacing the chine planks and kelson but 5 years time youll be doing it all again as the holes in the planks will have gone rotten and the kelson would prob be ok as its just bolted but as the bottoms have gone next to it its better to replace it as youll prob find its starting to rott it.

Ives asked 3, 1 of which was ade who saw the boat in sept 15 they all quoted between 15-20k and around 18-20 days just for the work to get it water tight around and below the water line. So that dosnt take into account any problems once the wood is removed or being removed

The yard, i can do cabin work,slides doors running gear but i have no idea where to start on that kind of work yes i can do it im sure with some time i did speak to jem bates about doing it diy which yes i can bring the cost right down, but i would much rather pay to get it done right as i wouldnt be confident + if i do it wrong it would have to all be ripped apart. It is about 5-7k in wood. I only get every other weekend off. If was the fitting out i could make bits at home but for me to diy the hull i would need to be there

I knew it would need work that wasnt the issue i wasnt expecting it to needs 20k just to get her water tight if it was a few bottoms and a plank 5-10k not a problem but 16 foot of bottoms and the chime planks and one 30 foot plank wasnt expecting that. The cabin work yes needs doing but a few £100 for the cabin skin on the engine room some paint and 3 hand rails wasnt an issue. It was the extent of the floor that caused the biggest issues. Like said 5-10k on the hold to get her water tight i would have bought it. Yes there are other planks but they are ok at mo and yes 3 years time needed replacing thats fine funds for that would be there as a rented house is paying for the project so constant money wasnt an issue its the first get the boat and get her water tight.

If you rubbed the cabin down re painted it in just the base waterways coulours to save on tins of paint and tidied up the top clothes (bottom clothes are like new) the boat would look far better. If its still for sale at a later date if i could get more funds together its still on the cards but it would depend if the work that needs doing gets more

Unfortunately beech needs far too much work. Its in fairly good condition but is right on that edge. The cabin inside is semi compleated and what has been done is really high quality looks good its unfortunately the hull that has stopped me buying it i jave the budget to buy the boat and do some of the work but not enough that i could start the work as the hull work needs all the bits doing at the same time if was just the odd bit the another odd bit i could have done it but 1 bit that needs doing needs the other doing at the same time or its just waisted money as you would have to do some again or i have the budget to do all the work but then not enough to buy the boat. Im really gutted as its actually a really nice boat and its a little scruffy on the outside but my god its nice on the inside

Bolinder one is a 4.75 inch outside tapered diameter with a small ring around it to that bolts to the roof using 4 bolts. Most chimney ones even the smaller ones are like a big ovel plate with 2 bolt to hold it down