magnetman
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Posts posted by magnetman
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But that's still running the big engine. Does not provide an auxiliary. I have no problem going slowly
Lynch motors are belt driven afaik
Would need a plummer block each side of the pulley I expect
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For maneuvering just start the main engine. My main boating area these days is the Thames where there are long reached between locks and I like to go slowly
I'm not looking at spending a lot of money.I would rather move the generator to be parallel and belt it with a clutch than pay ££££ for a hybrid system
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Its a 20+hp engine if the revs are sey higher but the generator is only 8kva - that's where it comes into the question (in my head at least) and I was thinking a direct belt drive would be more simple. But anyway it is not parallel.
What I mean is to do electric hybrid would probably need a bigger generator and a large electric motor.
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How about fitting an electric motor and clutch to the shaft like the hybrid diesel electrics do and power it from a generator?
That's an idea as the lister has a 8kva gen head on it. Would be nice to belt it but it is not parallel.
Do you ever use the full power from the bigger engine? If not propping down a bit might be one solution.
It would be but i do occasionally use it and it is handy as I go on the tidal thames to get to and from my mooring
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90hp is the design power for the boat but for slow cruise it is overkill.
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Take out the 90HP engine and fit the Lister in it's place
Richard
Giggle
Probably not 30 tonne barges and my idea is for an auxiliary sort of like the wing engines one sometimes sees in motoryotsA propulsion engine. Lots of those driving boats
Richard
Get the boat IP to speed with the 90 then switch across to the smaller engine somehow
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My barge has a 90hp diesel in it, a 3 cylinder lister generator and I also added a small 12v diesel generator recently
Currently I an doing 3.4mph running the main engine just above tickover (1100rpm). This is not ideal for a large engine.
I'd like to be able to perform slow cruising using the 3 cylinder lister but it is not in line with the propshaft.
What's the best way? Hydraulic maybe?
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More than likely yes !!Thanks for all the responses about it fitting in London, but I was being more than a little mischievous in suggesting that it could finish up as yet another CM blocking up the waters of central London!
George ex nb Alton retired
As it would come by sea or road I guess the entry point would probably be Limehouse (craneage/hoist at pla Denton in Gravesend) so it may never get to Brentford as it would get stuck somewhere near Hackney for reasons other than its dimensionsJudging by Tam's post it could end up actually blocking the canal at Brentford locks.
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£73.50 inc vat and delivery for 4 of the 40mm type 500mm long suitable for 15m barge. I'd use 4 in a spring line configuration with 50mm ratchet straps holding one each end. For security
Not bad really - interesting item.
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Yes just seen the PDF.
I'd have thought it would tend to peen over unless it is specially treated to deal with hammer blows - I suppose it is.
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The AC type has an internal thread in the top - ideal for screwing in an eyebolt to attach boat to I'd have thought.
Hammering would damage it surely.
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I wonder if it would be possible to drive the 50mm spirafix in using an electric plaster/paint mixer adapted a bit.
What's the biggest wood auger available
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As i understand it you can sublet on a residential mooring IF you have it in writing that the other berth-holders (neighbours) agree to it.
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Googling tek screws shows exactly what you describe - with a handy little flange below the head so the head could be cut off and it would still hold securely.No, it wasn't what I meant. The Tec screws I know of drill and tap their own thread as you drive them in. They have a drill bit lead and slotted thread cutter built in. As far as I know available with hex heads only.
I prefer drilling and tapping to self tapping types in steel personally.
I've never used tek screws - maybe they are effective
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Is there enough grip to self tap it into steel? I can see the driver bit slipping
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What about hacksawing the hex head off and just leaving the flange ? Could probably get a junior hacksaw in close enough. Would need to be deburred afterwards
Maybe use a hand file for deburring
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Or countersunk socket cap and drill out the socket. Same effect but would be more flush.
Tamper proof torx fasteners are interesting but as one can readily get the tools to remove them then how useful are they? Seems to me that using a fastener with an internal socket drive like an Allen type is quite good because of drilling out the socket and the action of doing the drilling will also drive it tighter. Only thing being it would he fairly straightforward to drill the whole head off ..
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I'd drill and tap and use stainless steel studs with shear nuts (assuming its a steel cabin)
Or use socket button machine screws and drill out the socket after fitting.
Edit to correct first part
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Those spirafix anchors look great
Someone said that really good large Rond anchors may be available on the continent - that would be interesting to know about as wr regularly go to France by car and I'd love a couple of big heavy rond anchors for my barge
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14'4 can go Brentford to Limehouse via the GU and Regents Canal apparently as Ironclad was measured as 14'5 and did that journey. This is as I understand it anyway.
It does look like a houseboat base - too wide for my residential mooring
its a lovely boat with masses of accomodation room due to the bluff bows. -
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That's interesting because it didn't mention it at 0600 this morning
Out of water pics been added too.
I do not need another boat
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Checked national historic ships and she's 14ft wide apparently.
its a lovely boat with masses of accomodation room due to the bluff bows. 
My wife talks to the washing machine
in Boat Equipment
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What sort of sheep do ewe mix with then ?