AndrewIC
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Posts posted by AndrewIC
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22 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Because if it is a single stud and for some reason it becomes detached from the hull while keeping the 12 & 240V earths connected a 240V fault to the earth wire would put 240V on the 12V DC negative and thus the hull. I would agree with anyone who says that is not very likely but for the sake of another stud/nut & bolt why risk it.
That makes no sense, in the scenario you outlined the stud had become detached from the hull?
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On 28/11/2022 at 09:07, nicknorman said:
That would be ok but not ideal as the best practice is to have the two studs (dc negative to hull, and mains earth to hull) adjacent to each other.
I have always wondered, why are two separate studs recommended?
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13 hours ago, Ex Brummie said:
Willey Moor Inn. but I think it is now closed.
Still going according to their website.
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The Black Lion has always been OK for eat-in food for us. Either of the Chineses were OK for a takeaway - I don’t do Indian, sorry.
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-8.6 C outside at home when I got up, currently a balmy -2.5 C. Hate to think how cold it would have been at the marina last night, it usually gets colder than home.
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10 hours ago, manxmike said:
There's an old adage - measure twice and cut once.
If you're actually going to manufacture items at home, then take them to the boat for fitting I think it should be measure a dozen times and prepare to cut and re-cut when it still doesn't fit through the rear door or the bow doors.
Templates are your friends
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Only 120,000 mAh? Pah!
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2 hours ago, harrybsmith said:
Do you like fixing things? If not, don't do it. A project, certainly a first project, will always be more money to do than one that's already done. I've got a massive boat project at the moment (replating and cabin work) and i'm loving it, but that's because I love building things. Despite getting everything that has gone into it at bargain prices and not paying any tradespeople it's also consuming budget at a fair rate, I could have had 3 really decent holidays instead of an empty rusty box with big holes in. If you think you will like it though then it's immensely rewarding and the opportunity to build exactly what you want from a boat
I’m pretty much with Harry on this… The first owner of my boat fitted out the (new) bare shell from scratch on an offside mooring with no facilities apart from mains electricity. It can be done, he had the practical skills (from a non-boaty background), it took him three years, he made a reasonable job of it, and for him I think the enjoyment of the fitting out was a big part of the pleasure he got from his boat. (I think he found that he didn’t enjoy cruising as much, as another three years later he sold it to me!).
I also like fixing things and tinkering. My own MO for bits of renovation and refitting (on a much smaller scale) has been to try to prepare as much as possible at home, then install or reinstall the prepared parts on the boat. Doesn’t work for everything of course, but it can save a lot of travelling time back and forth. If I was going to attempt a bigger fit out or refit, I’d look to make as much of the interior as possible in modular form from the outset, so that it could be worked on at home.
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-5 overnight at home, usually colder at the marina.
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According to the press, the Shroppie Fly has a new landlord: https://www.cheshire-live.co.uk/whats-on/food-drink-news/rave-reviews-canalside-pub-quaint-25701621
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42 minutes ago, Athy said:
Is this really so? If I wanted to pay the insurance on my wife's car, would I not be allowed to?
ABI says so: https://www.abi.org.uk/data-and-resources/tools-and-resources/glossary/insurable-interest/.
40 minutes ago, MtB said:Similarly, if I was feeling charitable and wanted to licence a boat owned by a friend fallen on hard times, I don't think I can. I'd have to give him or her the money and hope they didn't fritter it away on stuff like food and fuel....
Yes. Way back when when I bought my boat, the owner was concerned about it being craned out for survey (I have no idea what his own insurance arrangements were at that point), so I suggested I insure it for that purpose, and then found that I couldn’t! Of course the yard doing the craning should have been insured, but had anything happened that wasn’t covered by the seller’s insurance, then the seller of the boat would have had to sue the yard.
54 minutes ago, Phoenix_V said:But there is no reason not to arrange the insurance to start on the date you will take ownership.
Yes, that would be sensible.
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30 minutes ago, MtB said:
I'd suggest insuring it first, then paying for it and taking possession,
You can only insure a thing in which you have an insurable interest. If you haven’t paid for it, you don’t yet own it and can’t take out insurance on it.
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24 minutes ago, IanD said:
They're in exactly the same unfortunate position as many other organisations funded wholly or partly by the government whose funding has been reduced in real terms in the past 10 years or so -- NHS, police, firefighters, social care, schools, community amenities, transport, local government... 😞
But least some of those have competent management. Not all, mind.
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What a waste.
Sales brochure here: https://www.aqueductmarina.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Pavo-Specification.pdf
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1 minute ago, Tonka said:
Did you add the (I.e. mixing fluids) because if you are topping up you are not necessarily mixing fluids
I refer to https://www.holtsauto.com/prestone/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/10/Prestone-Coolant-Antifreeze-Leaflet.pdf, where it says: “Mixes safely with ANY coolant/antifreeze already in the system, reducing degradation and improving its performance by repairing the stability and corrosion protection.”
But anyway, if you top up fluid A with fluid B, good luck keeping them unmixed thereafter (assuming them to be miscible, of course).
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Just now, frangar said:
Its most commonly blue...but best to check the packaging as manufacturers dont always stick to a colour code
Ta. The last lot I had was Holt’s blue concentrated, but it appears that Holt’s and Prestone are now part of the same family.
incidentally, that Prestone link does claim compatibility with “all fluid colours”, and “all engines, new and old”, and suitability for a complete flush or for topping up (i.e. mixing fluids).
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4 hours ago, MartynG said:
I don't think Prestone antifreeze is particularly new. I haven't used it but no doubt it is okay . I believe Prestone can be used for top up with any antifreeze type.
I expect the Prestone at Toolstation etc is the ready to use (readmixed) type.
I decided to use concentrated Ethylene Glycol antifreeze (not Prestone) for a very recent coolant change (following flushing with water ).
I had used ready mix previously for a coolant change which was short lived and this was probably because of dilution due to liquid that is retained in the system.
By using concentrate I made allowance for retained flushing water by making it a 60%coolant to 40% water mix (or thereabouts).
Remind me, is ethylene glycol the old blue stuff?
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3 hours ago, Mac of Cygnet said:
If we're talking about the usual type of anti-vandal locks, then a reversed 1/4 inch socket works fine. In fact it was my preferrred method (on a ratchet screwdriver) when negotiating most of the HNC locks.
The BCN ones have a spring loaded locking bolt, released by a quick quarter turn of the key, push back into place to lock. Much easier and quicker than the “handcuff’ locks in the NW, which have to be unscrewed and re-screwed. Same square socket ended key though.
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4 minutes ago, cheesegas said:
Thanks, I'll get some True Blue, there's a Toolstation near me at the moment. All the reading I've done suggests that NPTF is gloriously self-sealing, hopefully that'll solve it. Very difficult to clean the female thread on the pump though...
I did read up after my previous, and I thought NPTF may not be reliably resealable though?
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When I replaced my sump drain hose, Beta recommended Bondloc B777, which is described as resistant to motor oil, and which worked. Looking at the Bondloc website, B542 might work, “ideal for fine threads” and “resistant to hydraulic fluids, oils, fuel, and coolants”. Someone will probably be along shortly with a better suggestion!
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I’m not familiar with NPTF so don’t shout at me, but does it help that 8mm compression is usually close enough to 5/16”
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It used to be a popular spot some years ago when the pub was open. I don’t know what it’s like now, sorry. The pub closed several years ago and burnt down last winter.
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36 minutes ago, MtB said:
The above is cheap as chips so maybe a pile of dog poo.
The cheap as chips ones work surprisingly well, and (mine at least) doesn’t eat batteries too badly. Here’s Big Clive testing a set and, as usual, taking it to bits.
Hull Earth & Negative Bonding Questions
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
No, I didn’t say that, don’t put words into my mouth. I understand that a mains fault might put 240V onto mains earth, and in the scenario you described hence also onto the 12V negative line via the bonding cables that are still connected together (but no longer connected to the hull via the detached stud). What I did not appreciate - and what you could have explained without the sarcasm - was the assumption that there could be additional, perhaps unintended, 12v-to-hull connections which would thereby make the hull live (and/or get fried by fault current). That makes sense, thank you.