Cas446

It's like community speedwatch, a disease that needs to be stamped out. Allowing/enabling members of the community to have power over others is wrong. Police it, or don't police it, but don't empower the busybody retired. My village has a tribe of these w*****s.

I came across a lady at a set of locks who commented on my kids life jackets, then pointed at her grandkids and explained how she had just sewn half a pool noodle into a T shirt for each of them. My wife commented later that it will at least make recovery of the bodies easier. Who knows what would have happened if they fell in, looked likely they would have gone over their heads and probably twisted round their arms and neck.

The Autumnish date (for hire boats) is due to the October half term school holiday, last week in October.

VED does not auto-renew unless you set up a direct debit.

No it doesn't, tax not insurance. You can of course pay by direct debit which is exactly what she now does.

The paper disc had an expiry date on it. When it disappeared the reminder in the windscreen disappeared. The renewal letter ends up in the pile of rubbish that Royal Mail like to stuff through the letter box and it gets missed. My sister did exactly this, she is disorganised, not a tax evader. They come round and clamp cars and stick massive public shaming notices on them - you must have seen it.

Cause on these canals, peeps have cratch covers and bigger holes !

Have a look at this pdf. Although written by Drayton it summarises all the types. https://wiser.draytoncontrols.co.uk/support/document/wiser-radiator-thermostat-adapter-guide

No it isn't. Do as Tony suggests at first and eliminate the easy wins. I don't want to send you in the wrong direction, but I had this on same engine mechanical PRM, 2008. The default thrust plate fitted is the rock hard 'commercial' version and it rattled as you describe. I fitted a softer one and the rattling went away. Can't remember the details, but easy to identify the correct one from the catalogue once off. Relatively easy change if you are mechanically minded and don't mind grazing your knuckles. But check the obvious stuff first, including moving everything in the engine bay that can be moved.

Rattle in gear at tick over, goes when throttle applied, quiet in neutral. I thought that was a classic for worn thrust plate Tony? Although perhaps the more basic checks first. If it is, increase idle speed slightly and it will go away - for a bit. Do you have a mechanical PRM gearbox on that beta 38, about 10 years old?

The noisey ones will invariably be 'reconditioned' auto units from eBay that have never had the exhaust gasses measured and the fan speed set up properly at installation. If you buy a second hand auto unit, the exhaust is normally very short, if you install it with a longer exhaust it will start okay, then struggle after a few months and clog, so the reconditioners crank the fan speed up, (mixture setting) hence regardless of the silencer it will sound like a taxiing 747. Obviously trying to set one up without an exhaust analyser is pure guess work, so they assume a long exhaust to get through their 'warranty'. It will run a little cooler and use more fuel as the efficiency is lower. If you are into playing with this sort of stuff, tweaking the mixture setting is worthwhile, tiny steps at a time and monitor noise, vs smoke, vs heat up time. Or RTFM and use an exhaust gas analyser.

Pearsons canal companions are the popular alternative especially when you photocopy them up to A4 for cruising. www.jmpearson.co.uk also available on Amazon.

This boat looks very much like the one that was in the field on the left of bridge 69 heading south on the T&M. It was in undercoat for years and I am sure I saw it painted blue, then it disappeared. It must have been in that field at least 4 years. You can still see the outline in the grass on Google maps. Actually it may been painted green, I'll leave the post up anyway.

You've misunderstood. Firstly I agree with you, that is why I said 'valid point'. If you are going to get a boat painted and by that I mean properly by a professional, then you get covers fitted first along with anything else that results in drilling or welding of the shell. You then hand the boat over to the painter who has the responsibility of removing all the fittings, painting and then refitting of all the fittings, hence my point about the painter having liability for corrosion around those fittings as the painter fitted them - it no longer matters who drilled them. This is basic contract management, ordering of activities to ensure liability is with the most appropriate contractor. It is not advisable to get your boat painted and them employ someone else to drill holes in the new paintwork, hence invalidating any opportunity of redress with the painter. The liability (at those locations) moves to the canvas installer who's T&Cs will be very limiting. Hope that's clearer now, but as I said I agree with your point about if they are going to install fixings they need to do it properly, but you take on risk as an owner which you can avoid, in this specific situation.

Valid point, but your neighbour dropped a bollock there, you get covers fitted before painting, not after - to ensure the liability for any corrosion around fittings is with the correct party.

If pram covers are not your thing then this won't either. The frame is a hoop and fits on the double bed or behind the sofa, it's one piece but very light polished stainless steel, but removal is rare. The canvas folds up, but only removed it a handful of times. It is just another option.

I understand why you say that, but that is not the case, the cover is within the profile of the roof and bow and i have never hit it on any infrustructure. Had one for 5 years, gives lots of room inside and easy access to the gas locker and on top which is quite useful. The only time i have taken it down is when on deep river locks for better front rope access and through Froghall tunnel.

For a different approach you could go for a cratch hood. No boards required. https://canvasman.co.uk/cratch-hood They now do raised versions for extra headroom.

Try this place for sourcing metals. They are based in Birmingham and their shop front hasn't changed in the last 30 years. Great place my dad has used them for many years. https://www.johnkeatleymetals.com/

A fellow boater over wintering in the pontoon next to us decided to swap landline plugs and help himself to our prepaid meter. Marina dealt with it, he left, they gave us some extra credit.

Had similar experience, with the diversionary route only detailed at the dry end!

Absolutely it's all about personal circumstances. We winter cruise with two young kids, I hate driving with stove smoke in my face, with this system the boat is toasty for them all day long without my intervention, and I get a continual blast of warm air through the hatch. At all other times of the year it just makes keeping towels, coats and kids clothes dry in a busy boat a lot easier as it's 'free' heat whilst on the move. Not for everyone, but for me, a great solution.

The K&A at Avoncliff when the railway line was built, perhaps Dundas as well? And at the top of the Bath locks for the same reason.

Don't connect the circuits together for all the good reasons already mentioned. You need one of these with the cover. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263272702860 Install in series with the Webasto, you can use the Webasto pump by cutting the wiring and inserting a changeover relay. Install a push button to power the changeover relay and the pump at the same time. With the switch off the Webasto is connected back to its pump. Alternatively add another pump in series, these pumps have a high flow rate when not running. Or connect in parallel with the webasto, with the flow in the opposite direction and use non-return valves (draw it out and you will see how that works - although you need spring type non-return valves). I connected my heat exchanger on the clarifier return, and run it when the engine is up to temperature, never a problem with over cooling, Beta 38. Although conceptually better on the skin tank, but for me would have been a messy install. Best mod I ever made to my boat, radiators will get very hot!