jenevers

Anyone use Redex with good results?

I'm going for star washers.

No they hadn't. The flange was right up against the bulkhead.

Continuing the topic. A strange observation was that the "pusher" had worked its way aft and away from the flange nuts, as if by suction. So the nuts weren't actually holding the pusher against the packing. There was a gap between the nuts and the flange. Anyone else had this happen?

The spanner has “9/16W” stamped on it 87 years old.

Because there’s room and I have a spare piece of packing, so why not?

This is why I wanted to include a photo. The nuts are on the same (out)side of the flange. So because there are 2 on each stud using up thread, the flange is 1 nut nearer to the housing than it needs to be. If I had a single Nylock nut on each stud the pusher would be further out from the propshaft tube and I could get another ring of packing in. I just need 2 x 9/16 whitworth nuts. I’ll check those merchants out ? On 2nd thoughts, a couple of spring washers would do the trick?

I was going to include a single photo but apparently it's bigger than 2.93MB?. The 2 studs on the collar that compress the packing each have 2 nuts (to lock in place) but I wondered if it's possible to obtain Whitworth gauge Nylock nuts, as this would allow another piece of packing by using the space taken up by the present 2nd nut, if you get my meaning.

Somebody please tell me which microSD card to buy to transfer all my photos onmy Android phone?

So maybe my antifreeze mix is too strong. Ill dilute it and see what happens?

Thanks. I'll check around the water pump. Its a Mastervolt Whisper 6000 dry exhaust. Hope its not that bad?

I noticed a slow water leak. Cant trace it due to awkward location up against a bulkhead. Topped up with distilled water. Leak stopped. Could this be because the antifreeze has been diluted. Ive been told antifreeze is very " searching".

That's what I would insist on, having seen what happened with the guy with the grinder.

Yes but I once saw a surveyor use a 5” grinder and take a good 1 mm (if not 2 mm) of steel off in spot grinding a hull. Disgraceful in my opinion. Probably trying to get business for the boatyard.

Care to elaborate?

Is there technology these days that allows hull thickness testing without having to spot grind into the metal?