swift1894
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Posts posted by swift1894
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These historic boats were lifted out of the water 12 weeks ago.
No one seems to know where they’ve gone.
Anyone know?
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22 hours ago, MtB said:
Point of Order if I may M'Lud....
On a boat I think its called a "deck head", rather than a ceiling.
Correct. Also the ceiling is actually the cabin side. Unfortunately traditional boat terms are dying out amongst boaters as well as those who just live on a boat cos it’s cheaper accommodation.
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Aerosol air horn (VERY loud) and high power torch that you can strobe.
Makes anyone jump sky high then lose their balance.
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Added 15 litres of Paraffin to fuel tank, temperature went up by 15 degrees C over next 5 hours👍.
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Anyone tried this when the weather is very cold? My Old Dutch doesn’t seem to respond much when I turn it up as maybe the diesel is too” sluggish”. Paraffin would thin it down methinks.
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49 minutes ago, Parnz62 said:
I emailed Barrus a couple days ago but no response....I'll do as you suggest and remove one and measuring it! Hopefully there is another manufacturer that matches the spec....Thanks
There should be some identification number on the plug. Then try EBay, I was quoted around £25 per plug from a Diesel engine servicing company, got exactly the same plugs for £1 apiece!
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On 13/01/2022 at 11:09, blackrose said:
I personally wouldn't use Owatrol as a rust treatment or as a bare steel primer as I think there are better products on the market.
Such as?
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17 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
No, and without a connection to the shore side mains there is no way you can wire on to the boat that will do anything at all. They have no use until the boat is connected to the mains earthing system. That does not mean that a mains fault on an adjacent boat can never cause current to flow through your hull but a GI or IT can not stop that happening when the circumstances allow it, but it is rarer.
👍 Excellent advice, as usual. Thanks Tony.
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My boat is never plugged into a Mains landline or moored near boats that are. Do I need a GI or I T?
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Friends abroad swear by this rust treatment. Totally different to Vactan. It doesn’t turn rusty steel blue/black, but claims to penetrate the rust, drive out all moisture and prevent further rusting. It can then be overpainted and even ADDED to any oil based paint to protect the metal and also “ease” the application by extending the flow and drying times. Anyone used it?
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thanks for all the advice👍
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I’ve ordered a new Android as my current one won’t switch on anymore due to being dropped. Are all my photos on my SIM card or somewhere in the in the phone’s memory?
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On 04/11/2021 at 16:20, springy said:
Blockage/restriction in the feed pipe from the regulator to the burner pot seems most likely.
springy
I removed the scraper arm, put a plastic tube on the “valve” and blew down it. There was a small amount of gunge that came out when I blew which, as you thought, must have restricted the supply of fuel from the regulator to the burner pot.
I also cleaned the slot in the valve with a cocktail stick as suggested by Ex Brumaire and the combination of the two has resulted in a nice blue flame. Job’s a good’n.Cheers👍
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On 04/11/2021 at 21:44, Ex Brummie said:
Taking off the lid, presumably off the oil control valve, allows the metering column to pass more fuel than the set amounts. Remove the metering column and clean out the slot, inside and out. As with carburettors, do not use a rigid pin or wire to clean it. Break a matchstick to give a sharp point and push into the slot, both inside and outside the tube.
Will do. 👍
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3 hours ago, springy said:
Blockage/restriction in the feed pipe from the regulator to the burner pot seems most likely.
springy
Thanks. I’ll check that👍
5 minutes ago, MarkH2159 said:My experience exactly.
I did everything else and had fuel coming through on highest setting but as soon as it was reassembled it burned with a smoky yellow flame, very sooty.
I eventually found the blockage in the feed pipe as the design of the soot scraper on the inlet causes crud to build up in the pipe.
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For some reason my old Dutch is not getting enough fuel through. Took the lid off and removed the float mechanism and plenty of fuel comes into the vapourising pot if the brass“valve” is at its highest position, so it’s not a fuel problem.
Cleaned the filter and the regulator scraped the inlet scraper. Do the regulators need adjusting after many years of use? I’ve never adjusted any of the sealed screws so I’m puzzled.
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On 18/10/2021 at 14:26, Tony Brooks said:
Apart from the fact it is only 22mm pipe I can't see why it would not work. Some say 22mm is sufficient but I understand it needed 28mm plus. Do you have a sketch of how it was laid out?
Is there any chance you did not pre-mix the antifreeze and water before filling the system. If you did not that may very well prevent gravity circulation.
Actually it is 28mm but it could be that I didn’t pre-mix the anti freeze. Good point. I’ll have a look at draining the system.
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3 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:
What sized pipes did you use and how high above the stove outlet was the upper pipe run?
22mm pipe and 4 feet above boiler output (can’t get higher than the deck head!)
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4 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
Gravity circulation with no pump.
Well you did ask. 😀
Tried that but it doesn’t work.
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What do members recommend?
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5 hours ago, The Happy Nomad said:
Thanks. Pity, I liked CNN but I ain’t going to pay for it.
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Can't get CNN anymore. Why?
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1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:
When I tripped mine (overloaded it) I found the 'button' inside, I had to take off the cover and there it was on the rear of the controls.
On a Mastervolt genny?
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20 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
No idea but probably on or near the control panel, maybe a little push button.
Thanks. I'll have a look. Think it might need new capacitors.
Leak in water pipe?
in Boat Equipment
Posted · Edited by swift1894
No drips from the PRV would indicate a problem with the pump if no leaks are apparent.