alegood

I was walking the towpath between Kintbury Wharf and Shepherds Bridge yesterrday (15th March) and there is a burnt out boat called Megan. I can't find any mention of it anywhere at all. Does anyone know what happened? I hope the owners are okay. It's quite a way from any road access.

Evening Leo, Is your system a grid tie inverter then? I think they are built with immersion heaters in mind. How big is your cylinder? How long does it take for a 1Kw element to heat the tank? Evening Bazza. My cylinder has a boss on the top for an immersion. I had it built in when I ordered the tank. Thank you though. I've posted my query on the Outback forum. I will see what their thoughts are. In the meantime, anyone else's opinion would be most welcome.

Okay. Many thanks Thought it might be a bit tricky! I will definitely ask the Outback forum. I will report back if there is a way of doing it. Alegood.

Thanks Robbo. The inverter in this setup is going to be left on 24/7. Would it be possible to use a relay from the Outback to switch on the 1.5Kw immersion circuit? And wire the second 2Kw immersion from the shoreline feed ? Alegood Good idea Robbo, I will ask on the Outback forum as well later today. Alegood

Thanks for replying. It does have a diversion output, which is 12v. The outback wiring diagram shows it connected to a relay. The immersion I want to use is 230v. So I am at a bit of a loss as to how this is all wired together. You can adjust float voltage, absorbtion voltage and time, and you can adjust the equalisation values of the Outback. Alegood.

Okay so this is my setup. 1050 watts of solar panels Outback Flexmax 80 1000 amp 2v traction batteries at 12v system voltage Victron 12/3000 Multiplus 26 (?) Gallon (1050x450) Calorifier. I'd like to add the following immersion heater. https://www.advancedwater.co.uk/prod-232-255-2721.html What is the best way to do this? Many thanks

Tony, thanks for your concern, don't worry though Because I didn't pressure test the injector outisde of the engine. I know full well about how high the fuel pressure is. After watching the video carefully several times, I removed the injector from the engine block, and took the nozzle off of the main body of the injector. I then copied the video, and then I rinsed all the toothpaste out using petrol, and left it to dry thoroughly... The pintle moved up and down in the nozzle, which it didn't before, (as it was all carbonned up) but there was still some friction. I reassembled it back into the engine block and ran the engine. Better, but not much. So I bought new ones. No, I don't have a pop tester, or anything like that. I didn't change anything else on the injector. And one further thought, I had a good, careful, look at the injector, and could see no other holes that might be blocked. They were definitely pintle injectors, not pintaux. Anyway. Just thought it was worth a shot. It didn't work for me, but It may work for other people though. Regarding the Injector pump, I had expert advice as to why the pump was leaking diesel. I have repaced the pump with an overhauled one. No more leaks. I am happy with the explanation I was given. Take care, Ollie.

Had an interesting conversation with T W Marine this week. Did an engine service on a DV20, and the owner had been using 20 w 50. I told them this was wrong and to use SAE 30 (which is what I had been using) HOWEVER, on speaking to T W Marine whilst ordering bits, discovered that the correct oil is SAE 20. This makes starting the engine far easier in winter apparently. You can use SAE 30 in the summer, but SAE 20 API CC or API CD is recommended for all year round use. This applies to the gearbox as well. SAE 20 API CC / CD all the way. (The workshop manual specifies SAE 10 for air temperatures below 5 degrees celsius, but I haven't been able to find any) AND this applies to ALL Bukhs, Dv10, DV20, and DV30. Hope this is of interest to people. Ollie.

Good evening. Really sorry for the long delay in providing you with an update. Firstly, the injector pump was replaced with a reconditioned unit because it was dripping fuel. Modern red diesel is low in sulphur and doesn't lubicate the O rings, so they go hard, and let diesel bypass them, so it leaks out. I tried cleaning number two injector with some toothpaste (see ) Unfortunately this didn't work particularly well. So I ordered a set of reconditioned injectors. They only came on Tuesday, and I fitted them yesterday. Bled and ran the engine, took the boat for a four mile run. No more smoke. Apparently the pintle can get stuck open in the injector nozzle and cause overfuelling. This would account for the amount of white exhaust smoke, and (I am guessing here) exhaust gas would go back into the injector, giving the same symptoms as of an air leak and impossibility to bleed the fuel clear of bubbles. Anyway, the boat is running really well now. Thanks for everyones advice. Ollie.

I did wonder that Richard, but I have been assured by various mechanics that because the pump has a master spline you cannot get it wrong. I've just been talking to somebody and they suggest I get number 2 injector tested. I will take it off and have it tested next week. Unfortunately I am busy all weekend, and the local diesel specialist is, I believe, closed at weekends. Thanks. Will keep you posted. Forgot to say that it actually doesn't run too bad and seems to have plenty of power. Though it does feel a little bit lumpy, so that would point to a faulty injector.

Hello. I have just fitted a reconditioned injector pump. With the etched line on the pump housing in line with the arrow marking on the casting, the engine smokes really badly. White/blue smoke on tick over, and clouds of it with revs. I have spent the best part of two days rotating the injector pump body to various places and re-trying and though I can reduce the amount of smoke, I can not eliminate it, even with the pump fully rotated clockwise. What shall I try next? I'm not sure if this is related, but when bleeding the injectors, no's 1, 3 and 4 all bleed through clear, but no 2 injector seems to have a steady stream of air bubbles which again, I cannot stop. Any suggestions as to the cause of this, I've tried tightening the injector pipe union on the pump, and that seems okay, as does the bolt that holds the injector pipe whatsit (technical term) to the pump body. (no 2 whatsit is the one on the top of the body adjascent to the engine block, and does not have the bleed screw in the whatsit). (hope you understand what I mean by whatsit!) Thanks.

Hello. To all those who helped me a little while back in re-powering my boat - MANY THANKS !! The Bukh DV20 is a many splendid thing and I would highly recommend it. I did have a long running gearbox oil leak issue with it though and I thought I would share the following. After every cruise I would find a puddle of oil underneath the gearbox which led me to believe that the gearbox input oil seal was failing. Sometimes it would leak a lot, other times hardly anything. Puzzled. So I proceded to take the box off and replace the seal. For those who don't know this is accessed from INSIDE the box, so you need to undo the allan bolts and take the end plate off. I then dug out the old seal, which didn't actually appear to be to bad. I put the new one in, however I didn't have the right tool and so I struggled to get it in, as it is such a tight fit, and I was a little worried that I had damaged it. Nevertheless I put the gearbox back on and reconnected everything. The same thing was occurring, variable amounts of oil under the box. I concluded that either I had damaged the new seal, or that it wasn't in quite straight. So I bought a new one and T W Marine kindly lent me their seal replacement tool (which worked a treat). I put the box back on, refilled it and started the engine. With the boat tied to the bank and in gear, perfect - hooray. I took the boat for a spin and then back to my mooring. I looked in the engine bay and there was oil under the box. I was beginning to suspect the output seal (although there was no sign of oil from it at all), which I hadn't changed, or as a worst case a cracked casing. I put the boat back in gear and, with it still tied to the bank, revved it quite hard. No leak. I put it in reverse and, again, revved it quite hard. GEARBOX DIPSTICK POPPING UP AND DOWN !!!!!!!!!! So after all that hassle, the leak was caused by the two little 'O' rings on the dipstick filler being worn meaning that the dipstick is loose enough to pop out. But it only does it in reverse, I suppose when that shaft is engaged and spinning underneath it it must cause some sort of pressure. I hope this is of some help to anyone, and that it saves them a lot of time and effort and money!!!! Take care. Ollie

Have rung Bob. He's going to look at it on Monday. If anybody has one we could potentially buy if it's a no-go with this one then please let me know!! Thanks. Ollie.

Thanks. I'll do that now.

Hello. The Bruce Trust, www.brucetrust.org.uk, which provides holidays for the dissabled, have a boat with a Lister HR3 and a Hurth HBW360-2l gearbox, ratios 2.13 A, 2.10 B. The gearbox is, basically, knackered. ZF do not support this box. The boat was built in 1988 with a new engine and gearbox. As far as I understand it was one of the last gearboxes to be built by Hurth and was then dropped when ZF took over Hurth. The closest box is a zf25, but using this means having to lower the engine to allign with the prop. There isn't space to fit an aquadrive or equivalent. Modifying and alligning the engine is a huge task. Does anybody have an HBW360-2l, or any ideas, or anything? Help.

I haven't measured the output of the panels with a multimeter, yet, but to get, for examle, the 6.7a reading you would need to divide 85w by 12.68v. Is it normal for the steca, which is a pwm regulator, to operate at such a low voltage and still push the battery voltage up to 14v?

Hello. I wonder if anybody can shed any LIGHT on the following. (!) My set-up consists of 1 x Kyocera kc85t feeding into 1 Steca pr1515 and 2x Kyocera kd135gx lpu feeding into 1 Steca pr3030 The two controllers battery outputs are then connected together and then down to my leisure battery bank. (450ah (4x 6v 225ah) Now I'm not complaining in any way, but I wondered why my panels are producing so many amps. According to the steca displays, the 85 watt panel is producing 6.7amps, and the two 135 watt panels are producing, together 20.3. Voltage readings on the Stecas at present is 14.0 As I type this the conditions are bright, but with patchy cloud, so the readings are intermittent but steady and repeat between clouds. it is 12.30 on the 18th June. This isn't the first time that this has happened, but I'm curious to know why it is when the 85 is rated to produce 5.03a and the 135s are rated at 7.63a (15.26a together) Cheers.

Hi guys. Just a quick thank you to everyone for your advice. Update. I went down to Yeovil, and after seeing it running in the yard I purchased the DV20. It just about slid into the boot of my Mondeo estate. I tied it up to stop it sliding about and drove very carefully home!!! (I didn't bother draining the oil out of it, so if it had fallen over it would have been a disaster) Anyway, it sat in the back of the car for a few months whilst I removed the old engine, after which I thoroughly degreased, de-rusted, anti-rusted, red oxided twice, and then topped off with several coats of Danboline white bilge paint. I'd also had to weld in some new engine bearers as the dv20 is narrower than the Renault. I then borrowed a friend with a tractor and we lowered the engine into the bay. I lined it all up with the propshaft, making sure that the gearbox flange and propshaft flange were absolutely square with a vernier and tape measure. Then I went about drilling and bolting the pads on to the bearers. After that I then bolted the prop to the flange and turned it by hand. It felt a little tight, so i loosed the four bolts that hold the adapter to the prop shaft and slid the prop and propellor about 3mm astern (the propellor was rubbing on the stern tube) until it turned freely. I re-tightened the bolts and turned it. Felt good, looked good. I cleaned up and painted my header tank, and replaced the water coolant pipes and fuel lines. I cut the exhaust elbow off and using the flexible exhaust parts I already had connected it up to my huge hospital silencer. I connected the left skin tank to the inlet, and the thermostat block to the right skin tank. (that was a mission, trying to find an 18mm metric thread by 5/8ths right angle hose tail) I removed the standard alternator and made up a bracket for my 110 amp alternator off of the Renault. I then refitted my Adverc and split charger. Sean Woodward wired it all up for me for a very reasonable price. We fired it up and amazingly it all worked first time! I put it in gear to make sure that the prop was aligned correctly. I increased the revs slowly and the wash coming out the back was phenomenal. I took it for a quick spin, just up to the winding hole and back to the wharf and it seemed to go and stop very easily. So today I headed up the canal, just a couple of locks. The first time my boat has moved under its own power in about four months. The engine sounds lovely. There's very little vibration in neutral. Plates no longer fall off the table. The boat now goes forwards, stops, and goes backwards. None of which it did very well before. The propellor seems to, in my limited experience, be well matched to the engine, so I shan't bother changing it. All in all, I am very very pleased. So thanks once again!! Ollie. P.s. I purchased the engine and gearbox from a chap called Sean Brackstone for £1095. He advertises on apollo duck.

When refitting my narrowboat I jack-hammered out the paving slabs (they were such a tight fit that there was no other way of doing so), de rusted and then bitumined the base plate. I worked out the mass that I had removed and then re-ballasted with two and a half tonnes of tractor weights (the removable weights on the front of the tractor, used to balance out the plough). They weigh between forty and sixty five kilo's each. They fitted very nicely between the bearers which were two foot apart, and it meant I could lay the floor directly on top of the bearers. Because the weights are irregular shapes there is plenty of air space around them. I also made sure that there was some insulating material betwwen the base plate and the ballast as I didn't want any galvanic action to happen. I was very lucky in that I scrounged most of them off of friends and I think I only had to spend about £100. I dread to think how much they are worth in scrap value!!!.

Hi Tony. I shall use the skin tanks. My current set-up is as follows - Huge great big header tank (Approximately 200 litres (yes!!) with an open hole to top up), out the bottom of that, into top of first skin tank. Out of that, then into the water pump. Through the engine, out the other side into another skin tank, then back into top of huge header tank. Steve. Output is 13hp at 2000rpm and 20hp at 3000 rpm and the gearbox ratio seems to be 2.5:1. I've calculated from these figures (http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/MechanicalPropulsion/Propeller/propcalc.xls) that the dv20 will give me from 83 ft/lb at 2000rpm to 89 ft/lb at 3000rpm. The renault gives 117 ft/lb (28hp, 2500rpm, 2.05:1 ratio) Is the difference in outputs significant enough to worry about?

Quick update. Have decided on the dv20. Took a while to source a decent one, but it's been bench tested and is apparently a "good'un!" so we shall see. Going down to collect it tomorrow afternoon. Will keep you updated. Many thanks.

Excellent. I am much more confident now than I have been. I was looking on Apolloduck earlier and there was a 60 or 70 foot ex butty fitted with a Lister SR2 which I believe is roughly the same or less HP as the Bukh. So if it can cope with that then I have no real worries. One more thing. So my boat is keel cooled, and the Bukh is direct water cooled. Are there any issues there? I do actually have direct water connections which are still 'live' in that they have shut off valves on them. I was going to have them removed and welded up next time the boat is out the water, as it is a slight worry that they may start to leak into thew engine bay and also they are just in the right place to stab you in the back when I'm tinkering. I would prefer to keep the cooling system sealed if possible.

What will happen if the propellor isn't suitable?

Hello. Thanks for your quick replies. I'm beginning to believe that this will be possible. I have no idea what power at what RPM I'm getting with the Renault as I have no rev counter, but it's rated at 28hp @ 2500rpm. I've never come across a torque curve. Modifying the engine bearers to suit the new engine shouldn't be a problem, if I need to then I shall take some quarter plate and either weld or bolt it to the existing bearers. My current engine is kind of bodged in anyway. Its feet are mounted to some angle iron, and then this is bolted to the inside face of the bearers. The engine vibrates badly in neutral and every now and then a bolt shears and I have to jack it up and re-mount it. Arthur - I believe that the engine will be complete with a gearbox. How can I tell if the propellor and propshaft on my boat is suitable? The current propshaft is pretty slim, can't remember it's diameter, but it's only about an inch, maybe inch and a half, so should cope with a smaller engine. The current gearbox ratio is 2.05:1. I don't know the dimensions of the propellor, but it is three bladed (not that that is much use to you guys!!!!). Would the Bukhs gearbox be a suitable match, or am i going to have to buy a Hurth or something? I'm going to go down on Friday to have a look. I know that he has some other engine and gearbox combinations, a couple of BMC 1.5's, a Yanmar something and a Volvo 11C, all of which are more powerful, but I am sorely tempted by the Bukh. What do you think?

Hello there My narrowboat currently has a Renault Couach Marine RC28D, which as you can probably guess is 28hp. The engine has a unique gearbox, an as16, which is a clutch cone tyoe. The cones are worn out. A secondhand box is about £800. A reconditioned box is even more. It isn't possible to fit a prm or hurth without making an adaptor plate. The head gasket has blown through leading to low compression and difficult starting. I replaced the gasket about two years ago and torqued it and retorqued according to the instruction manual. The gasket cost me £160 last time and now needs replacing again. I have the option on an engine for around about £1000. The boat is late 70's to mid 1980's steel hull, steel cabin, 42 ft in length. So my question is would a secondhand Bukh DV20 be up to the job of powering my boat, or should I look for something of the same power rating or higher? The engine I have at the moment, once I eventually get it to start is capable of powering my boat and towing one of the same length as well. How does this engine compare to a lister sr2? I'm based on the K&A near Hungerford. Any advice will be gratefully received.