Chalkhill Blue 2

I removed the regulator and saw no evidence of crud in the tubing or regulator but soaked it in warm soapy water for a while. Now it's refitted everything is back to normal. Thanks for your help guys! Oh, and I'll be getting a replacement regulator at the next town. One of the spares I hadn't thought of carrying.

There are a lot of good thoughts here so thanks guys. Getting a French regulator looks like being a good step as it will also avoid the faff of using the adaptor. SYMPTOMS: The flames on the hob are lower than they were but first thing in the morning they are no so bad just get progressively worse during the day.

I'm not an expert - how would I know if the regulator had failed? Out of adjustment is a good point - I will check

Hi. We use 13kg propane gas bottles to supply the gas appliances on our nb: oven and hob only, no other appliances. Everything has worked fine since the system was installed three years ago. Just over a week ago the pressure dropped and even though I have tried a new bottle it doesn't make any difference. I have checked the rubber hoses at the bottle end aren't kinked or caught. I have also checked the gas supply copper tubing from the rubber hose along to the cooker and there doesn't appear to be any damage. There is no smell of leaking gas in the gas locker or in the boat. One other thing. We are now cruising in France and have just about finished our first French bought bottle which was supplying gas fine until a week or so ago as I said above.. The full bottle I tried is also a French one. I have an adaptor so that I can still use the UK connector (https://www.socal.co.uk/p/1301/gas-cylinder-adaptors/bullfinch-gas/european-propane-218lh-female-to-uk-propane-cylinder-adaptor). Any bright ideas please?

Thanks guys - jokes an'all ? 1. I have a dry (greaseless) stern gland. I misled you mentioning grease 2. The gunk is some oil I spilt when changing the gearbox oil once. Not a lot and mainly cleared up with disposable nappy 3. Water ingress isn't an issue. The first time was when I hadn't kept drain holes free and left the boat for about 10 days and came back to water in the bilge. The second time was going down one of the very leaky Wigan locks when water bucketed onto the stern quicker than it could drain away 4. Smut is fine - especially when funny ? 5. So, as I said near the top, I shall be removing the pump when it stops raining and cleaning it properly

Actually guys I have just watched a video from the manufacturer and I think I need to give it another clean as the symptoms seem to indicate I have left some oil/grease on a sensor somewhere. so please ignore this post.

Help please! I looked on existing topics but couldn't find anything similar. My 2-year old+ Rule-Mate 500 GPH automatic bilge pump has stopped working consistently. It went through a period of a few weeks of working sometimes and then not so I took it out and cleaned it all up. There was some grease/oil on it which I got rid off - I believe they stop working if they get greasy/oily. It carried on working intermittently for a while but over the last few days has stopped. All it does now is 'have a go' every minute or so. It's like a quick pulse of energy goes through but not enough to kick it into action. I have checked the electrical connections and they are all clean and tight. It has a test button on the side that you depress for seven seconds to check the pump springs into life. This doesn't work any more either.

Yup, sourcing this week

Hi there. To start her up I turn the ignition key to the start position (after waiting for glow plug light to extinguish). Nothing happens so I then let the key turn back very slightly and is starts as usual. Ignition barrel failing? Thanks for asking

OK. Thanks for your help guys. The behaviour has now moved on since cleaning all the connections as instructed. I turn the ignition key and nothing happens, so I keep it turned and after a few or even many seconds the engine turns over and fires up straight away. Any thoughts? Cheers, Neil

Thanks Eeyore. Engine wouldn't start this morning. Waggled relay as you suggested and it started straight away. Does that point to poor connections on the relay or a failing relay? Cheers, Neil

Thanks Tony. I will check the connections as you suggest first. Cheers, Neil

Hi. When I turn the key to start my Barrus Shire 45hp diesel engine, the first position is always fine. Once the injector light/warning buzzer goes out I then start the engine. Normally it turns immediately and fires straight up. Sometimes it fails completely as if the barrel is failing, i.e. no sound or clicking of solenoid from engine bay etc. I have occasionally had to leave it a couple of hours before it finally works. Then it works fine every day for a couple of weeks. It has started happening more often so I will replace the barrel, but until I can get one can someone explain how I would hot wire it in an emergency. Is there enough information in this picture to answer the question? (I have searched this site and found no similar question) Thanks in advance, Neil

Hi - it's the OP back again. I have dug out two of the articles that misled me into believing batteries can be run safely down to 11.5 volts. I won't name names but one is on a solar panel installer's website and the other is on a site providing information to liveaboards. Either I'm misunderstanding what they are saying or they are wrong. I'd be interested in your thoughts. BTW I will be installing a new battery bank over the weekend so I want these ones to last and thanks for all your help guys