Kieron G

Thanks for that Col, Is there a register of inspectors for all areas? also is the fee for a visit fixed? Kieron.

Hi, we're reaching the stage with our boat refit where if we need to make any major changes or alterations now would be the best time to make them. I've had a read through the BSS checking procedures and have realised that the escape hatch for the cabin area is only 35x36cm. The regulations state that the opening must accommodate a 38cm diameter circle. The boat is of unknown age and history and to alter the steelwork and make a new hatch would be a major job. Would a pre inspection by a BSS inspector now would be the best way forward to clarify this and other issues now ? Thanks in advance for any advise.

Thanks, i guess i need to study the rule book. I like the idea of keeping an oil can topped up. I when i need to prime the engine to start i wont spend ten minutes looking for the can and diesel or oil to go in it.

Hi, wonder if any one might have experience of this. I'm plumbing an old Coventry victor engine in on our boat and have got the fuel supply connected. The fuel leak off pipe from the injectors ends with a short length of micro bore size copper pipe. Do i need to return this to the diesel tank or could i just tee it into the supply line somewhere which would make the job a lot easier and less complicated. as long as the connection is before the lift pump i can't see a problem. Does anyone know of a reason why i shouldn't do it this way ? Thanks in advance, Kieron.

Hi, We have the 2.5 NA in our old ex MOD landrover ( i guess it's the same engine ) and it relies on a good ten seconds of glow plug preheat to fire up in this weather.

Ok, i'm going to give the red oxide a week or so to go off properly before i test the system. thanks, maybe i'll just paint the underside of the floor (tank top) with hammerite because that area with be damp with condensation but not immersed.

Hi, i've divided up a section of the hull on our steel boat to make a coolant tank for the engine. It's primed inside red oxide but i'm not sure what sort of paint to use as a top coat which can stay immersed and is resistant to antifreeze. any guidence appreciated.

Hi, i think if i were you to try and rule out the fuel, fuel lines and lift pump i would disconnect the fuel line from the lift pump to the filter housing at the lift pump end, make a temporary extension to this line into a funnel topped up from a gallon can of fresh diesel above the engine and gravity feed it into the filter housing. If you bleed ( extra pair of hands needed ) it, keep the funnel topped up and it runs fine ( or doesn't ) you know what to eliminate. You will also need to run a temporary return into your tank filler from the lift pump so as not to pump diesel into the bilges ( if the lift pump works ). First though you could try slackening the diesel filler cap and running the engine, incase the tank breather is blocked and the tank is vacuuming. You could also ( with the filler cap removed ) disconnect the fuel line into the lift pump and try blowing down it, If you or someone else can hear bubbling from the tank the you know that the lines and pick up strainer are not blocked. Never worked on BMC but older diesel engines work on the same principles. Hope this helps.

Yep, we're well pleased with this engine, runs really well ( havent tested her under load yet ) but sounds great, not too loud ( Apparently the aircooled version is much louder ). Not smokey when warm and to say she's on solid mounting there doesn't seem to be too much vibration. The only problem was trying to convince my partner that it is a good idea to have one quarter of her boat's interior taken up by a classic engine.

The boat is apparently from a scrap yard near the Welsh / Gloustershire border brought up to Wakefield ( West Yorkshire )where my Girlfriend bought her off ebay as a lined out shell. The engine was going to be fitted into a narrowboat, but this was sold as a residential mooring in London so wasn't required and sold seperately. I have found out from 'Marine Engine Database' that the Vixen HDW (W for watercooled) should be 27hp at 2500 RPM. Information on these engines is limited but if you search 'Coventry victor' on this heading there is a fair amount from other site users when i first bought her and was trying to source a gearbox. Your English is better than a lot of English residents so don't think about that.

Hey Keith, no worries about number and thanks for the contact. and everyone elses suggestions.

Looks like you've been seriously busy. Do you know her history?. You should put an entry into the boatbuilding and maintenance section, a lot of people who would be interested in your project will miss it under this heading. Thanks for taking the time to explain how your cooling system works. Much appreciated.

Your boat does look really nice. Have you built her from plans or restored her? I take it that you have to finish the deck, are you going to leave her open? It looks like you've put a lot of time into your project.

I got their details from 'hovrin' (Keith) on this thread although i think the code given is for Grimsby and not Scunthorpe. just two of the numbers the wrong way around. I got a car dealer in Grimsby to start with. I couldn't find anyone closer with a plasma cutter. I would use them again,they were good to deal with.

Hi Christian, I think the Vixen is around 25hp although i can't remember where i got that information. As for RPM, it sounds very low, in fact waching the prop going around when it's in gear i'm wondering if the 2:1 reduction is too much. 17 inch is the largest prop i can fit in to clear the skeg. The steel pipes sound like a good idea, would the standard Jabsco pump cope with circulating the water that distance do you think?. The hull has quite a deep vee under the floor and i was thinking of sealing this and using it as a tank but i don't want to corrode the hull from the inside. Do you think that the rubber impeller in the pump be ok with antifreeze. What type of boat do you have and have you chosen keel cooling because you use it in salt water? Many thanks, Kieron.

Have eventually managed to get this Coventry victor engine and gearbox aligned and running using a temporary cooling loop with water from the bilges. I'm not to sure which permanent cooling solution to go for. The original raw water cooling, Install a heat exchanger and an extra circulation pump off the alteranator vee belt or keel cooling. Any guidence or suggestions appreceated.

Hi, just to conclude this topic i have inserted a few pictures of the letters welded onto the boat hull, a bit rough around the edges but what i expected. Thanks again for the contacts. I used CYMARC engineering at Scunthorpe, just under £50 for fifteen 100mm high letters of 4mm mild steel.

I was less fit at one time, but now i've been advised not to mix whisky and blue smarties any more things have improved. I think i'm sorted with these letters now, thanks for the contacts.

Thanks Les, have had a quick look at both of those sites and look like be just the job. will check them out fully tomorrow. One more question. We got this boat as a discarded shell which had started to be fitted out.when we reregister her will she need to be registered to a town, so have a place name somewhere as well as the name of the boat? or is that optional. Just thinking of the extra letters i might need/want to order.

Thanks for the contact at Scunthorpe, i think around 100-120mm would be high enough for the letters. The advantage for me with welding on rather than glueing is that by tacking them and tapping in before welding i can make them follow the contour of the bow as the angles change. I'm not too worried about a small amount of distortion, the boat has a fair amount of knocks and ripples already. also if i weld around the letters then no moisture can get behind and corrode the hull. I guess at the end of the day it's a matter of personal taste and rather than beauty i prefer a more industrial finish ( on this boat ).

Nice one, thanks for all the suggestions. I stand corrected over welding stainless to mild steel but it would be beyond me. I've seen this lettering on fishing boats and trawlers which i know have nothing to do with canals but there's nothing traditional about our boat. I like Brian's suggestion of using straight lengths to make up the name. As for painting them i would maybe use a gloss roller and just highlight the tops of the letters. Thanks again.

Thanks,that might be the easiest way, to find an engineering company with a plasma cutter. I just thought there might be somewhere with all the letters hung up and ready to go. That's also a viable solution, to buy a length of thin flat bar and make the letters out of cut lengths. cheers for that. Stainless sounds good but i don't think that welding them to mild steel would work.

Hi, i would like to have our boat name in raised welded on letters, have searched but am unable to find a supplier who stamps/cuts out mild steel letters, i guess that 3 or 4mm thick would be ideal to weld without melting away. Does anyone know of a supplier ?. I don't fancy having to make each letter by hand if i can buy them already mass produced. Any leads would be appreciated, we are located in East Yorkshire.

Nice one, thanks for all that info, and thanks for the welcome. Fortunately this engine is fitted with a starter. bearing in mind that the boat is only 23ft if i am going to retro fit a gearbox does 2-1 sound like a suitable ratio? it has a 13*9 propellor with it on a 1 inch shaft, i have space for up to 16 inch diameter if these are available for 1 inch shafts (i've seen 16 inch for 1 1/2 inch shaft dia at a local boat jumble) i think the engine is approx 27hp, any advise is greatly appreciated.

I have recently aquired a coventry victor vixen marine engine for the 23ft steel boat which we are restoring, after freeing off the decompressor and cleaning out the fuel lines, lift pump and changing the filter it started well. I just need a gearbox to fit it. I gather from searching on the net that i could adapt a more modern or non original box to fit. Has anyone had experience in this area? or does anyone know of a seized HDW engine coupled to a decent original gearbox which i could purchase. it would nice to keep the whole thing original. I've tried contacting the coventry victor website but can't get any response, does anyone know of a good alternative supply for spare parts. i'm new to this site and have a lot of questions. Thanks.