Kieron G

Hi, if you list the job on the 'any van' auction site you should get a good deal if you are flexible about dates.

I've got Nicholson no 6 on our boat at Selby marina if they are passing that way and need to borrow. tel 07513514761. Got it second hand off amazon for five pounds something including postage which I thought was a good deal. Some book dealer on ebay had one copy left and bumped the price up to around £40.

Hi, are you sure that this is not engine oil, Our engine seeps oil through the flexi at the lowest point of the exhaust, maybe not ideal but it is over fifty years old.

I'm sure that if I knew which vehicles this pump was fitted to then matching would be no problem. I guess that the repair kit could be the same for many different types. I've noticed that the bottom half of the pump is marked type Y and the top type D. There is a type Y D on the listing you've highlighted but the port orientation is different with the ports nearly opposite each other instead of only about 30 degrees. Think i'll send diaphram and get positive match if I can. Thanks for extra leads.

Hi, thanks for reply. Have rung a few vintage engine specialists, one has a stock of kits for unknown pumps so if I send diaphram they may be able to match it. Have removed pump from an engine which I bought for spares to keep me going for now. electric pump would be a good solution but would like to keep engine as original as possible. Always fancied a P5 have got a 2200 P6 under a sheet in back garden waiting to be finished.

Hi, we recently had a fantastic trip from Selby to Ripon in our boat. On the way what I thought was blocked fuel filters has turned out to be a lift pump fault. As we have a separate primer pump we could keep going with a few pumps every 5 minutes or so. The AC pump on our Coventry engine is marked type D. Does anyone know where I could get a repair kit ? There is a new old stock type U pump on ebay which 'looks' similar but with a built in primer handle which ours doesn't have. Any advise greatly appreciated. Kieron.

Stanilands marina at Thorne have the facilities or Goole boat yard would be worth a try. Our boats at Selby boat yard but i'm not sure if they have an on site welder.

Hi Jim, yes we have sectioned an area of the vee in the hull further forward as a ballast tank which seems to work quite well and can be pumped out before pulling the boat out. At the moment the boat is on the hard standing on the trailer. If / when we get a permanent mooring I will add solid ballast. we've got a load of bricks out of storage heaters which are really dense and fairly compact.

Sounds good. I guess the advantage of a plug over a threaded cap is that if ( when ) I forget to remove it the pressure will blow it out.

Thanks for that Richard, I just need to make a better seal at the down pipe to scaffold pipe join to stop water dripping into the bilges and job sorted. Want to make the trip to Ripon asap. Cheers.

Hi, after two years hard work we recently got our 23ft steel boat through inspection and in the water at Selby. Had a test run along the Selby canal ironed out a few faults and then had a run up to Boroughbridge and back over four days. Thanks to the guys at Selby marina for help slipping the boat and advise. and every one else we met along the way. The diesel tanks are at the stern of the boat built in to double skinned sections. when we filled up at Naburn the extra weight lowered the exhaust outlet from being just above the waterline to nearly on the waterline which when running isn't a problem but when moored the water lapping over runs into the exhaust. The engine is a Coventry victor flat twin and has a vertical water cooled silencer which creates a swan neck above the water level so the water shouldn't be able to run back past the down pipe from the silencer but the exhaust runs uphill from there to the outlet so any water entering will sit in the pipe which is a 4ft length of scaffold tube bent and welded in. To raise the outlet would be a major task now. I used the original outlet hole but the extra weight of the heavier engine, cooling tank, and woodburner have lowered the stern that extra bit. Advise on whether this is fairly common or could cause problems would be appreciated. I guess freezing water in the pipe would cause problems especially if someone tried to start the engine. Thinking of adding a small tap to drain the pipe out and a threaded cap for the outlet or I could extend the outlet with some sort of external tail pipe which runs at a higher level across the stern. Thanks for any guidance / suggestions in advance.

It's a bit ironic that your profile picture shows a steam train then. It's your loss if you never go to York and beyond.

If you're planning on venturing up the Ouse and back down it again into Selby lock then a narrowboat fitted with a transit engine could be just the job. Knowing you've got that extra power when you need it would be reassuring.

Hi, just because you've fitted a new condensor don't assume it's ok. Twice i've had running problems created by new out of the packet condensors after servicing and not immediately. It could be worth trying a different one.

If engine reliability is your main concern you could pick up an old seagull cheap ( providing the boat has or you can make a suitable point for attachment ) just to get you out of trouble. then sell it on later. I guess you know and I've learned that old boats can be a massive amount of work and all the jobs seem to take ten times longer than first thought. I think wooden boats look the best but it would take a lot of skilled work to repair one.

Hi, I think I would carry on but change the oil for the correct spec when I next got the chance if I were you.

Hi, where does the excess fuel from diesel injectors leak off to at the moment, if it's free to run then it shouldn't cause a problem. Your diesel tank breather could be partly blocked restricting fuel flow. I'm not familiar with your engine but I guess it must have a hand primer pump which the fitter used to bleed the system. maybe by disturbing this he made a temporary repair to a worn seal and air is entering there. Just a few suggestions.

In our case two pairs of ear defenders & two small blackboards for idle chit chat.

Teadaemon, that's been Very helpful. Now you point it out batteries and flammable gas aren't a great combination. I see from your link that there is an inspector at Goole which is only a few miles away and where the boat is most likely to be moored when completed. thanks once again for your guidance.

Thanks again, If this out board engine is stored outside but bellow deck level under deck plates, can I make one locker to contain the batteries, the outboard and any gas cylinders (secured down) with one 'scupper' hole in the hull of the boat to outside to accommodate any vapour from all of these items or do they have to be segregated? Also do you have any personal recommendations for an inspector in the Humberside/N Yorks area that I could contact? Regards, Kieron.

Thanks for clarifying that. The other issue which comes to mind now is that i have a long shaft seagull which want to store on board as a back up to the main engine and wanted to make a storage bracket on the bulkhead in the engine room / compartment to keep it safe and dry. The way that I read the regulations an outboard engine must be stored in an area which runs off to outside for the vapour to escape. If the vent screw on the petrol tank filler cap is kept tightened and the tap shut could I fabricate these brackets and hang it on the bulkhead next to / above the main diesel engine?

Ok Col, Tim thanks for that. I live in the Goole / Selby area so could find out from boat owners at local marinas details for inspectors.