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baffle

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  1. Hi people. For the record, my dipstick is 8 15/16" overall, and 7 1/4" from the end to shoulder of loop (ie what would descend into the gearbox. The marks are 1/2" and 1" from the end (low and high respectively. The advice to drain, refill and remark dipstick is sound - thanks for your help on this Tony. For the record my gearbox is serial 8803/3486, and came from the wooden boat Trees, last at Jannels, Burton.
  2. Thanks for alerting to me to this Tony - what you point out makes very good sense. When I get round to it I will measure my dipstick(s) and if Ewart can do the same, we can have a little comparison. Baffle
  3. Having been away, I had not seen this sad news until recently but would like to add my thoughts. As someone like many others who had only met Tim through this forum, I can only reiterate what so many posters have already said. Tim came across as patient, knowledgeable, enthusiastic, generous and non-judgemental. I will miss him and am sorry not to have met him in person to thank him for the help he has given me in the past. Baffle.
  4. Getting ready to go boating (!), and on changing gearbox oil realise that a Parsons F Type reverse gear in book should take 2.25 pints, but dip stick level is way lower than this. Before draining, the level was mid way between high and low on the stick, but there was only 0.5 pint in it, which seems worryingly low to me. My dip stick is stamped F Type, and I have a spare which is the same if not marked slightly lower. I would guess with oil up to the upper level on the stick there would be no more than 1 pint in the box. On neither gearbox or in the Parsons drawing is there a collar which would hold the dip stick up any higher than it goes. So, oil capacity to the book, or to the mark, or between the two maybe? Thanks!
  5. Hi Tim, thanks for reply. Have now established that the flexolite adapter made for the Armstrong Siddeley Sapphire and Star Sapphire tecalemit oil filter will also fit the AS2 (and prob. AS1 and poss AS3). From memory, can you remember if your uppermost O ring is square or round in cross section, and if square, does it fill the width of the recess in the filter head? Googling around, it appears the issue of the seals is commonly shared with various cars - Triumphs, Healeys, MGs, Morrises etc. I am going to try the AS car club in Brum to see if they will sell me some seals, though not sure I really want to join the AS Car club for the privilege! Good to have a sympathetic ear. Baffle
  6. Can't stop the leaks either from around the top, or out the bolt hole, and on taking apart realise I am missing some of the smaller seals that should be on the bolt below the lower plate and between the bolt head and the canister. Add to that the seal that comes with the filters is a very small cross section compared to the size recess (is it really supposed to be that small?) ......so all in all am trying to improve the general situation! Baffle
  7. Has anyone fitted a spin on filter adapter to the Tecalemit filter head fitted to an Armstrong? There are a lot of adapters made for various Tecalemit filters fitted to various engines in the 1950s/60s, but I havn't yet found a match for that fitted to the Armstrong. The part no on my filter head is 'fa 2009/102', 'element fg236' I am the process of trying to sort out if Flexolite make an adapter that will fit, but it's always worth asking here too! thanks
  8. hello people. Does the field wire need to be live all the time an alternator runs, or just when it starts? my starter switch is just a push to close, release to open circuit, and I don't know if this is suitable to include the field wire in. thanks
  9. I can't see a resize in the mobile dropbox version. Am using dropbox cos it has a good and small size interface that works with an android phone, and my phone has very limited memory .....a bit like me!
  10. Thanks - I need to resize using my smart phone, or as this is probably a bit fiddly take shots at a smaller size in the first instance before uploading from the phone. The direct uploading from the phone to in this instance a public dropbox folder is wonderfully easy.
  11. Have been away for a few days but got back to alternator this morning.Couldn't shift nut by holding and whacking so wimped out and went to find local alternator man who removed nut with an impact driver. I picked up an old 3" SPA ( I think) pulley for alternator, which I then bored out to 17mm, and got on with bracket making. Tightened on new pulley with 5/16 allen key and tightened with ring spanner - allen key did twist and jam slightly as I think shaft is over machined as I posted originally (and had measured with digital caliper). Think pulleys are in same plane, but will have to wait til next weekend for picking up a belt. And then to add some wiring. Here are some grainy piccies. My welds are functional, but not pretty.
  12. Thanks. I'll see that I assemble it properly then! Is there any rot for how much torque to give the grub screws, or does alignment of centre and pulley faces (so long as shaft and centre are correct diameters) indicate correct assembly?
  13. Ok while you've all been helpfully adding various thoughts I've been failing to get it undone. I carefully tried winding the pulley up in a big wood vice, but the pulley is just spinning. Ditto with alloy liners on a metal vice, but I am being a bit coy with the pressure. On an associated note, I have got myself the biggest pulley that can go on my AS2s crank (217mm) with a taper lock centre. The key way in the taperlock is maybe 1/2" while key way in crank is something nearer 3/8s. Do I overcome this by filing up a stepped brass key ? Thanks
  14. Ah now that makes much more sense. I shall give it a go with a filter wrench or something similar. Thanks for all replies.
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