jonathanA

it seems to be up today - I've just looked and its there, I see the charge has gone up to £15/Night From 1 April 2024, the following charges will apply: The first 7 nights are charged at £15 per night After 7 nights, any further nights are charged at £27 per night feels like quite a hike from nothing for a long time to £10 and now £15. Still good value I would say, but i think I would stay for less time now....

presumably the survey scared the OP off as he's not been back for two months...

there are a few other marinas and a couple of clubs (sale, Watch tower ? ) on the bridgewater so i'm not sure its a bad as some are making out.... although I've never tried to find a mooring (other than overnight ones !) although as Alan says depends on where you want/need to be and how far the net can be cast....

just noticed the flooring in your pictures. - that might be worth keeping because it looks like expensive decent solid wood flooring - German I think - can't remember the name. might only be fit for the stove, but if its the stuff I'm thinking of, you could sand that and oil or varnish it and it could be lovely. it looked like there was a fair bit in reasonable condition - just a thought. Good luck and keep posting !

I know BSP has some mobility issues, but agree grind/chisel off the old ones and replace with bought hinges. I don't think they need to be SS, there are quite a few hinges designed for welding on, which have no predrilled holes. I've done something similar on a side hatch hinge that failed and then used countersunk machine screws (in stainless) to fix them in place, painted up they are fine. I originally did it that way intending to weld it up when i could get a big enough generator to run my welder, but i've never bothered. (also saved any issues with welding heat)

the obvious thing is can you not simply move the router amid-ships ? if not I would be tempted to run an ethernet cable from the router to a wireless access point further forward. (like the one Ian linked to above for £23 quid. ) I have in the past re-purposed crappy leftover broadband routers from home as an AP - just ignore all the DSL/broadband stuff, but for the cost its not worth messing about. I had a different version of the TP-link in my garage on ethernet, at home to give extended coverage and it was fine. I'd run it straight off 12v on the boat.

a friend of mine worked for the local water company as an electrician and when ever asked he always said he worked with the 'dirty stuff' - you mean sewage ?- no potable water..... it doesn't pay to look too closely into water mains, holding tanks and such like.

for a quick, rough fix whilst you decide what to do, take the handle and bump stop off and drive over it with your car, i've 'repaired' a few landrover back doors like that- although on a landie its considered 'character' 🙂

what was i thinking.... 🙂🤣 that said a mate of mine who is a diesel fitter has bought two houses and a brand new defender off the money he has made out of cross rail and HS2 ... so if he has made that much (admittedly by sleeping in his van and working shifts).... - so maybe some social good and a tiny bit of wealth re-distribution. I can only imagine (dream) how much the big boys have trousered out of HS2💸

complete waste of money always was. for me the travel time to london by west coast mainline is 2hr 9mins. Its actually perfectly fine, cutting 30 or 40 mins off that would be a disadvantage as it wouldn't be worth me trying to get anything done on train. As for capacity there's plenty of capacity as most of the 1st class carriages are empty as no 'ordinary' folk can afford the nearly £500 return fare. the super rich who can afford it aren't going to travel by train anyway.... the billions would have been much better spent on improving the capacity of the existing, upgrading east-west links and making travel by train more attractive than car or flying (i.e reducing ticket prices)

my diagram ? top right is the engine, two alternators (AS /AL) shunt is not marked but has the 'load' connected to the top or right and is in the neg ?, S is starter batt and L is leisure. Earth symbol hull bond.

as opposed to having no income from the empty berths and therefore having to charge the existing bertholders more.... I guess the risk is that the CCer did actually turn up and then you would have a problem if they stayed for months on a peanut rate compared to the other berthholders.... and even if you had an agreement that they would never actually turenup (or could do for only so many nights) then i don't see how thats fraud, might not be in the spirit of what CRT are trying to do, but thats a different debate altogether. I struggling to see where the fraud is. It would be fraudulent if someone took money from say 100 CCers, when they only had berths (occupied or otherwise) for say 50.... I could see the CCer being more at risk that actually a 'real' person wants a berth (at full rate) so the operator 'turfs out' the CCer - perfectly within the rights of most if not all operators, even then The CCer is all right until their next renewal so still possibly a good deal for them. Although back to the earlier point, this is all hypothetical and a waste of time whilst the CCer surcharge is small .

to be fair I'd assumed the CC surcharge would make it worthwhile, but if its as you say, buttons, it would not be worth the effort quite agree. i do wish people would read previous posts properly before diving in.... no where did i suggest 'over selling' in fact I was very careful to use the words 'spare Capacity' and the conversation with MTB even referred to CRT knowing how many spaces/total length was available at each location. just to be clear I was merely postulating it as something that could be done, but MTB has shown its probably not financially worthwhile. although if the surcharge become significant then it could be for some. finally its not my plan so I don't need your approval or good luck - but thanks anyway.

I was just trying to help, by putting some of the words into a simple diagram, which helped me so thought it might help others. no where in this thread does anyone say don't connect the negatives together, what is being said is if you are fitting a shunt to monitor the leisure/domestics then you need to think about where the shunt is positioned electrically. I don't know your boat specifics, it could be for example that your alternator(s) are insulated return, or I think on some betas the whole engine is insulated return, which would change things a bit. if it ain't broke don't fix it...

quite so, my point was allowing ccers to declare a home mooring to use up spare capacity would be undetectable and perfectly legal. fees a mooring operator pays CRT are fixed regardless of the number of boats actually using (or registered) to use that operators facility.

I was just reading this thread this morning and had to draw a numpty diagram form myself, so apologies for the p-poor drawing and the forum software rotating it... but if you look at the starter /leisure negative connection you can see if you move it to other side of the Shunt then the point Nick /David are making about the 2nd alternator bypassing the shunt is obvious. i think it really doesn't matter too much where you put the hull bond so long as you DONT put it on the Leisure negative terminal directly in this situation. Blackrose if your negs really are connected directly then you have the situation Nick describes he had to sort after the professional. maybe you had the same professional 😀 are you sure they aren't connected on the load side of the shunt ? hope that helps.

I have a couple of spare mooring spaces (that I don't want to fill), I wonder if there is a market for 'convenience' Home moorings I'd happily take less than the CC surcharge to have a boat register as using one of my moorings.... could be a nice little earner for a marina thats got spare capacity...

Just buy a new ignition switch with keys off ebay or t'internet probably be about 20 quid or less might not be barrus or yannar key but so what... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204423000015?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lZ24xoNWTEO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=7VsQHjvdQA-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY First one I found.

if you have the space available its worth thinking about allowing enough height for 19Kg rather 13Kg bottles as the 19kg bottles are better value should you need to use a lot of gas. Obviously depends on your intended use and whether you have a gas water heater etc.. whether 19Kg would be needed by you./worthwhile. I looking at you pictures i assume the round inspection hatch is outside the proposed gas locker (and therefore doesn't need to be gas tight). looks a bit small if you ever need to get in the water tank 🙂 sorry just re-read- ignore the bit about small inspection hatch - presume you have a plastic or SS tank below that 🙂

I don't think the type of ballast is going to be your biggest issue on a boat of that age, unless your really looking at 'project boats' that need a complete strip out. The current owner should really be able to tell you, but what ever boat you seriously look at don't be afraid to peer into every nook, cranny dark corner and hole, regardless of whether you have a survey done or not.

Lol oh dear... Guess it depends on whether you are OK with a stain or varnish or need a colour finish. For a stain I think sadolin is hard to beat, the solvent versions rather than water based. Easy to maintain a quick rub down and another coat every year or two. Paint is more problematic. A good quality oil based paint system is needed but the constant exposure to weather etc is a problem. I use craftmaster paints, not cheap but worth the money IMO.

LOL i had read Private fraser as meaning direct into the vehicle fuel tank... but yes I frequently put 40L of red into my 4WD. I just open the back door and lift in the 20L drums... its a bit surreal when i fill up the fuel tank with white at the pump next to the 'red' pump and then fill up some containers with Red...

yes there was quite a fuss and good deal of confusion at the time. all the plant hire companies suddenly started saying if you used red in their machines they'd charge you for cleaning the fuel tanks, disposing of the old diesel and a new tank of white.... HMRC say: 4. Other machines and appliances Any other machine or appliance (that is not a vehicle or a vessel) can use red diesel when it’s being used: for purposes relating to agriculture, horticulture, aquatic farming or forestry for purposes relating to arboriculture to operate or maintain equipment in a travelling fair or travelling circus for generating electricity or heating primarily for use in or on non-commercial premises A machine or appliance (that is not a vehicle or a vessel) can also use red diesel when it’s being used for any purpose on: private land where it’s kept and used for purposes relating to agriculture, horticulture, aquatic farming or forestry — for example, a farmer who keeps a machine on their own, or anyone else’s, land that they use in agriculture, can use the machine for any other purposes on that land a golf course, driving range or land maintained by a community amateur sports club A kerosene heating system can use rebated fuel for generating heat for any premises. A machine or appliance should only contain rebated fuel if it’s being used, or was last used, for one of these purposes. A machine or appliance is liable to seizure and financial sanction, if it is found containing rebated fuel that should not be in it.