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lewisericeric

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Posts posted by lewisericeric

  1. Thanks for the advice on this, guys. I'll contact some gas guys, but really would like to run the line myself. It's a single piece of pipe, so any help with diameters, would be great.

     

    Oven is 2.5kw with a 2.2 integral grill and I'm having the Thetford 931 hob which is a total of 5kw over three rings. 

     

    Any advice helpful in the meantime but will also check with whoever I have to come fit things

  2. Hi All

     

    I wonder  if anyone can advise, but I'm ideally wanting to 'run' my own gas line, in preparation for having a gas guy come to fit my hob and oven. 

     

    Just to confirm here, I have NO INTENTION of fitting or connecting any gas appliances myself, I just want to run/clip the gas line under my gunnel so it's ready at the kitchen end and ready in my utility room end for the gas guy to then take outside to the gas lockers. 

     

    I'll of course run a single length of copper pipe, but woudl rather do this myself. The gas line has to go out the back and my bathroom and bedroom are fitted, polished, painted and looking pristine and I now don't want someone with little care ripping it to bits to put the gas line in, dirty hands,etc.

     

    I know it must be clipped, but was wondering: a) what size/type of copper pipe to lay, i.e. 5mm copper brake pipe? and b) I'm sure the clipping had to be done every 20-30cm? What clips to use?

     

    Any advice appreciated.

     

    Thanks!

  3. Hi guys

     

    I've got a 240/standard house pendant that I want to wire into where there's a spot light in my ceiling.... 

     

    I've got a bulb from bedazzled so it can run on 12v, but I'm just wondering on the pendant I have live/neutral/earth wires, where do these correspond to on the black and red cables on the 12v circuit? How should this be wired up?

     

    I should know this by now but can never remember!

  4. Hi guys, tahnks for the responses. My fuel filter has a drain on it, so I turned fuel lines off and drained it. I've drained into the end of a plastic pop bottle. All looked like diesel to begin with but now it seems like tiny little spots of water, on the inside of the bottle right at the very bottom.... It did just start raining though at the same time, so worried it could be those just showing 😂

    Does it take a while for the water to separate out from the filter when you've drained like that or would it be two separate liquids straight away? 

    I've then put the engine back on and seems to be fine, but popping the revs up to 1500 did see one or two instances of it 'missing a beat' (?) or changing tone, but I have heard from Barrus directly that if I've no load/batteries this can happen and I've just had an outage with my battery system so leisures are currently disconnected at the moment. 

     

     

  5. Hi All

     

    I've a brand new Barrus Shire 43 on my new build narrowboat. 

     

    It's barely been on... Last night, I turned it on for battery charging and after about 20 minutes, the engine revs started altering/hunting and the exhaust was pluming out thick white smoke.... I tried to rev it to see if that would clear it, but it actually made it worse.

     

    Smoke was white. Very thick. 

     

    What are the chances on a brand new engine eh? Anyone any ideas? I'm thinking an issue with injectors or coolant?

  6. Thanks so much everyone for all the helpful information.

     

    Tom/Bex, do you know if the actual unit and tank could be installed (For ease) in my utility room - similar to an engine bay, it's at the back of the boat, not accessible by door from the bedroom only via the back deck doors. 

     

    Or do these units HAVE to be in the engine bay themselves? 

  7. Hi All

     

    Looking to install a diesel air/fan heater and wondering where to put the unit. My boat is a cruiser stern, but limited space on the bulkhead walls in the engine bay now, plus as the heaters have their own little 10l diesel tank, could be fiddly/irritating having to go in engine bay to refill.

     

    My boat will be trad layout with bedroom at the back, but unlike most boats, I'll have a separate utility room after the bedroom.... this room is NOT accessible from the bedroom (i.e. no door to it) so I'm wondering if the heater could be mounted in there.... It's no different to if I had an engine room on a trad stern and there's also going to be no door between it and the bedroom for any potential leaks? Are there any issue around BSS does anyone know? 

  8. Just changing tack slightly, what about a diesel heater - aka something similar to the cheap chinese blow heaters, to heat the water in the calorifier? 

    Does anyone currently do this? Is it possible? I had Webasto on my last boat, but oddly, for it to heat the water in the calorifier I still had to have one rad open in the boat in summer otherwise it never seemed to heat the calorifier water up? 

  9. 1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

     

    Anywhere convenient and between the hot and cold lines BUT -

     

    If a calorifier is involved you need to fit a two-way valve so hot water from the calorifier can't pas through the gas boiler. If it did there would be a good chance of getting superheated steam from the taps.

     

    The valve can be in the cold feed or the hot supply pipe.

    Thanks Tony, really useful stuff there.

  10. 16 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

     

    If they are vertical calorifiers, stacked vertically and joined by a short length of 28mm+ pipe the water MIGHT thermo-syphon between the two, but I doubt it. There might also be a height problem.

     

    At the risk of complicating things you could plumb the coils in the two calorifiers in series with the small one receiving water straight from the engine In fact, if you do this the primary calorifier could be smaller because when the engine is running both calorifiers will reach the same temperature after a bit of time.  If you did this I think coil bleed points on both calorifiers might be vital for getting rid of airlocks.

     

    First question - Yes.

     

    Interesting, thanks.

     

    Just going back to an earlier point about lugging bottles in winter, the idea I think would be that the gas heater would be used mostly in summer - when I DON'T want to have an engine running if I'm not going anywhere.

     

    In winter, you'll have engine on more for charging, so you'll always have a vast array of hot water via the calorifier. 

     

    Does anyone know how complex the Morco heaters are to plumb in? (I'm not talking about gas connection, but rather where abouts they need to sit on the plumbing line?)

  11. 1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

     

    The plumbing is not complicated, it is just a length of pipe from the main calorifier hot outlet to the inlet of the small auxiliary one, but make sure there is no NRV between the two or you will need another PRV and expansion tank. Just be aware this is unusual and might waste a bit more heat. In winter when the solar would be doing nothing you may have to run the taps longer to purge any cool water from the auxiliary calorifier. But as it has no water coil connections and as long as the interlink pipe was well insulated the initial water flow may well be hot enough for most tasks after cooling overnight.

     

    Best wait for other comments on this idea.

    Thanks tony, interesting idea. So the main, larger calorifier would be linked direct the engine, with the smaller calorifier linked to the large, main calorifier, but with no non-return valve.... 

     

    If water can pass between the two units, would the engine also eventually heat up the smaller 'solar' unit too? 

  12. 1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

    PS you could always plumb a small hot water cylinder in series and after the calorifier so you have a small volume cylinder for the solar dump heating. As the solar dump is electric with a thermostat there is no danger of getting scalding water when the engine and solar dump are working together, unlike a calorifier and instant gas water heater, so no extra valves are required.

    Hi Tony

     

    This is interesting. Sorry, gave half a story. The boat builder just built the shell. Fit out is now a combination of me/friends and then an electrician and, of course, gas will be done by a professional too.

     

    I could use two  calorifiers then? A larger and a smaller.... is the 'series' plumbing of them a complicated task? Limited knowledge here so any more info would be really useful.

     

    Thanks

    Just now, Mike Tee said:

    Just a thought - if you end up iced in somewhere, it's a lot easier to carry 10 litres of diesel down the towpath than a full 13kg gas bottle (smaller bottles are so much more expensive than 13KG). So I know you don't want a Ebbersplutter or whatever, but it is worth having a think and maybe changing your mind before the builder gets too far.

    Thanks Mike

     

    The way I see it, the diesel central heating would cost £5k to install and realistically, I don't think I'd be using it at all in another year or two the way diesel prices are going.... I know the same is happening with gas, but gas heaters are a few hundred quid (Morco). It terrifies me I've had another diesel engine(!) never mind chucking money on plumbing/rads/units for central heating....

     

    I'm building this boat as an 'apocolypse' boat!!! It's 70ft, two woodburners (not going down the back boiler route) and no central heating. Valid point re lugging the gas bottles v diesel and I am still considering getting a cheap diesel blow heater for additional heat should I need it/can't be a*sed firing up one of the woodburners, but it's options for hot water that's a bit of a bamboozle at the moment.

  13. Hi guys

     

    I'm at a bit of a crossroads with my new build. I always thought I'd go with a calorifier and a gas water heater on my new build, but now not sure. (Mostly as I hate the idea of the gas heater unit on the walls).

     

    I'm not having diesel central heating, so will have no other means to heat hot water, and always hated the fact I'd have to have my engine on in summer JUST for hot water when it otherwise wasn't needed as solar would take care of the electrical side of things.

     

    I am having a solar dump put on my calorifier by my electrician, although he advises these work better on smaller calorifiers and I am having a 95/100litre calorifier...

     

    What's the general consensus around having the gas water heaters as well as calorifier? Do any of you have a preference for one over the other? Be good to hear some thoughts!

     

     

  14. 14 hours ago, MtB said:

     

     

    They ARE better, loads better. 

     

    It's what happens when lawyers start getting involved in building work. 

     

    Where in the BSS do you think it says twin wall flues are mandatory?

     

     

    The BSS site has a link to an installation diagram and it states on there about a double-lined flue. It's not exactly clear if this is mandatory or not, which is why I was checking on here. My boat is a new shell, so I can't get away with it being deemed as acceptable cos it's an older boat... just wanted to check.

     

    I've heard other stuff about twin wall flues being better for draught/draw though? and less smoke when opening the door of the stove to refuel?

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