bizzard
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Posts posted by bizzard
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10 minutes ago, GUMPY said:
Used E-coal for a couple of years it's good if a little bit ashley, easily stays in 12hrs in a hobbit stove. If I still had a boat stove would still be using it.
Before tgat I used Phurnicite so have never bothered with cheap tat
Years ago apart from house coal the mainstay was usually Phurnacite or Coalite, both good.
I get 10kg bags of either Braizier or Blaze from The Range or Wickes. Wickes £24 for three bags of either, I pick it up myself but both will deliver.
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1 minute ago, Cheshire cat said:
Brazier is poor with lots of cement ash. I shan't be buying any more.
I find it quite good and does burn nice and hot, but it nust be really dry before using otherwise the cement ash and blocked flue. I dry mine first on this Meccano trivet.
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1 hour ago, MtB said:
Take it on the BUS?!!!
Around here the buses run twice a day (if at all),and I can't imagine the bus driver waiting while one flogs over to the Elsan and empties it, then returns to the bus.
Not can I imagine a taxi driver hanging around for more than 0.1 seconds if he guesses what you have in the black bag
In a way one could tell em that' your breakfast lunch and dinners is in it.
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A card of fuse wire usually has 5amp wire on it. Twist a bit of it around the prongs for the time being.
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5 minutes ago, Ken X said:
One thing which others may be able to confirm or otherwise.
Many years ago I had a mate who ran a grasstrack bike and sidecar. I seem to recall this ran on Ethanol or a derivative and occasionally caught fire. The problem was the fuel burnt with a clear flame so the first warning we had was when things started getting hot. The bizarre sight then ensued of us frantically beating out an invisible fire.
Might be something to consider if Ethanol is used as a fuel.
Methanol I reckon.
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Before anything else, Heating the boat is of paramount importance. How is it heated?
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Indeed, if your near Bishops Stortford I could probably help.
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2 hours ago, Ken X said:
IIRC the distributor on the bell housing was the 948 cc engine.
The carburettor was a Solex updraught, possibly a type 26.
Might well be worth chatting to the Series MM register guys at the Morris Minor Owners Club.
The series MM had the old side valve engine, The Morris Minor from about 1957 had the 948cc ohv engine
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Flour and water, like making paper mache.
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A bit like the vehicle MOT, Before the MOT was introduced around 1960 even unpractical folk checked there tyres, lights ect, but when the Mot began many folk didn't bother anymore thinking everything will be ok until the next MOT. you see it today, the odd dodgy tyre, the odd headlight, brakelight, rear light not working, never mind it'll all be ok until the next MOT. These silly examinations just remove folks initituitive and makes em lazy.
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Elvis Presley got stung in 1958.
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It's on again today. 3.45pm, freeview 26.
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1 hour ago, ruthieruthruth said:
Yes, thanks for all the advice here! I think the main issue is that I didn't realise the tank was full until it was too late - need to find some way of fitting some sort of indicator so this doesn't happen again. There's no obvious place I can see that I could do that but perhaps I'll speak to the Scarisbrick marina and see if they can advise me. Leaking poo out of the hose is not the best indicator...
Meanwhile I have the porta poti set up for now and a pump out planned for tomorrow at the MMBC.
Would love to also have the DIY pump out into a suitable container option but I am not sure I would know how to put one together - does anyone have any more detailed advice that covers the pump and hose operation as well as the container? I've had a google but all I can see is the Leesan huge kits that aren't really suitable as I have no where to store them.
Mount the whole bog on bathroom scales and take a reading when nearly full for future reference.
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A lorry load of plums was stolen in Bognor last week............................Police are looking for two men on the run.
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4 minutes ago, GUMPY said:
Simple unbinding is easy.
Just take a dose of Moviprep.
If you've taken it you will know.😱
Or Liquid parrafin.
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I suggest eating about 25 eggs a day to bind you up so you can't go. To unbind yourself when you get a bog eat 15kg of stewed prunes, meanwhile keep legs crossed just in case. Pee in the sink.
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Always have a porta pottie, a simpletype in case you can't move the boat, iced in ect.
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Perhaps his Mrs is an HGV and when she emerges from the rear cabin the stern goes down about 2 ft. Looks like she's up the front at the mo. Causing prop to be not deep enough either, pretty ineffiient. All that splashing is wasted thrust.
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4 minutes ago, Marc1900 said:
After having a leaking fuel pump for a couple fo years it was finally time for a re-ferb. Having removed the pump and had it reconditioned at a reputable local pump center along with new injectors. I've installed the new pump, fuel filter, blead system, good flow from lift pump and both bleed values. Engine will start every time but die after a couple of seconds, I can repeat this process as long as I like and at any throttle but it will always cut out straight away almost like the solinoid was cutting out (if it had one).
Is there something im missing? Before I go to the pump supplier. (I really dont want to remove the pump again)
Im also reluctant to start tampering with the pump to much like breaking workshop tamper seals, will invalid any warranty.
Hopefully its something stupid and simple I've missed.
Thanks
Marc
Sounds like there's still some air trapped in the pump. Try slacking off the feed pipes to the injectors and giving the engine a good whirling over on the starter. If you have someone to help, get them on the starter turning the engine over, when a good spirt of fuel comes out of a fuel pipe, tighten it, same for the other three, the engine then may fire and start on one cylinder and the other three chime in one after the other until it runs properly. It can be a bit of a devil to remove air from those pumps.
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9 hours ago, A A Matthews said:
I wish to extend the useable cooking area on my boatman stove. Image as seen. As I do most meals in casserole dishes it makes sense to ‘ add ‘ a removable surface at one side therefore allowing either a circular or oval Le Cruset type dish on top.
I can arc weld, braze and have lots of
m/ s threaded rod, nuts , bolts et etc so materials are not a problem.
Image showing installation with tiled fire back and flue to be fitted etc
All ideas welcomed
This is mine. Fiddle rail around the stove top is 6 small 5''gauge model steam loco handrail stauntions screwed into threaded holes around the stove top plate edge. Throungh the stauntions holes is a length of 1/8'' gas welding rod bent around to the shape of the top plate. The large grid or trivet is made with Meccano and lifts off to make way for pots or kettle. It;s there to dry wet coal before feeding in on the fire.
1 minute ago, bizzard said:This is mine. Fiddle rail around the stove top is 6 small 5''gauge model steam loco handrail stauntions screwed into threaded holes around the stove top plate edge. Throungh the stauntions holes is a length of 1/8'' gas welding rod bent around to the shape of the top plate. The large grid or trivet is made with Meccano and lifts off to make way for pots or kettle. It;s there to dry wet coal before feeding in on the fire.
It is an earlier Boatman than yours but the same steel body, I fitted the brass door knob too.
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Works for me. Win 10 Firefox. and Win 7 Firefox, and Chrome.
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If you like a crusty top with an oriental flavour, egg wash the top and sprinkle Punch Puran seeds on it from an Indian deli shop before baking.
On 05/12/2023 at 09:40, LadyG said:I don't have a problem getting dough to rise, it's just a matter of waiting. I put the kneaded bread in a poly bag with olive oil, and it soon rises again,
The thing is using my Dutch oven on stove top, low gas, as a hot oven to bake bread. Should work in theory, but I end up with a burnt base.
I'll try foil to keep base off the bottom of my Dutch oven.
You need a trivet under it. Easy to make with Meccano. A bit of wire netting might do.
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3 hours ago, luggsy said:
Hi yes I think it is and looking on there website it says 2 & quarter BSP
Just looked on their website and can't see any sizes. Yours maybe 2.1/4'' I think you need to remove yours and measure it. If it is a Surecal calorifier it shouldn't be dead tight, leave it full of water, if you have not got the box spanner to undo it an ordinary large pair of grips should do it easily as it uses a softish rubber gasket, like an oil filter. Turn off the mains supply to it first, then unplug the cable from it's thermostat. remove plastic cover and pull out thermostat and rod. you can then get your grips on the big element nut unscrew and remove it.
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The marine 1kw elements are usually smaller fitting 1,1/2'' BSp as apposed to I think 2.1/2'' bsp. And should have removable thermostat tube which slides out to use on a new one, it has the mains power socked attached to it. For Surecal stainless steel calorifiers
only, If I remember correctly.
End of my stupid stupid fuse
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
The Hilman Imp was ok but I had to do some serious mods. Early models king pins seized up, swollen nylon bushed, the mod was to fit and ream proper bushes with grease nipples. Pneumatic throttle control converted to ordinary cable. Overheating, water pump or head gasket.