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Posts posted by bizzard
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Sounds like you need a collapsable one like Tommy Coopers majic wand. A biff and it droops down.
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3 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:
Thats what I have, and so does another member on here, just can't remember who. We used to use them a lot for electric motor to water pump drives
Harborough Marine used them in their boats years ago. Although Solid mounted Lister SR2 and 3 engines and were really there to halt noise transmission. They were very good.
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4 minutes ago, IanD said:
I suspect it's not just the space though, Aquadrives and similar (and their super-flexible feet...) cost a lot more than simple flexible couplings...
Nothing wrong with that if properly designed (large shaft diameter is really only needed to prevent torsional whipping on long shafts), and it means they can be fitted in a lot more boats. Still too expensive for a lot of boaters though...
The drive line with universal flex like Aquadrives are not even fitted to most very expensive premium build mainlt cruiser stern narrow boats, your new boat probablt hasn't. In the past I've had to renew many badly worn stern tube bearings and shafts because of engine misalighnment, sinking engine mounts and even when the engine have been in alignment.
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The modern way of mounting engine and transmission in most narrowboats is horrid. Shoved right up the back as far as possible to give as much cabin space as possible, with no room for decent proper marine flexible universally jointed drive with thrust bearing to allow the engine to move at will and not be restrained by Poxy centaflex units and the like that don't do much.
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4 minutes ago, blackrose said:
I'll be practising with a dry run (no sealant) on the first window with a few ordinary aluminium/steel rivets of the same size I've ordered for a couple of quid before I go ahead and order a load of the more expensive aluminium/stainless ones. I'll just drill out the practice ones.
Trying to tap with a drill sounds like it might result in lots of snapped bits of metal which are then difficult to remove. Easier to drill out a rivet that hasn't seated properly I reckon. Also if a rivet doesn't seat properly because the gun wasn't held square to the cabin side/window then the same is true for a tap & screw as well.
The other thing that makes me lean towards rivets is that from what I can see some of my holes are barely in the steel of the cabin side and some are just half a hole so you'd never be able to tap them, whereas a rivet will sit in them fine.
Thanks
Don't tap threads with a drill unless your an absolute expert. Tap by hand tap.
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3 minutes ago, Peugeot 106 said:
Bear in mind that Matty and Bizzard probably can’t remember anything going wrong when they were learning. Each has probably put in hundreds over the years and have it down to a fine art!
Not that many windows but hundreds of cylinder heads, same difference.
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1 hour ago, blackrose said:
As I mentioned earlier in this thread. For even pressure on the frame, pull up the rivets little by little by releasing the tool levers and removing to pull up another rivet a little, ''opposites'' until they snap off. Similar to tightening engine cylinder heads, bit by bit.
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All my windows, portholes, roof vents and prism are set on cheep clear silicone and pop riveted and nothing has leaked since it was all done in 1997. One gently pull pop rivets by giving gentle pulls, releasing, and re engaging the tool travelling around for even pull ups until they snap off.
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20 minutes ago, LadyG said:
Too late now, they assured me I would be refunded, and an hour later they closed the yard for the Bank Holiday, fortunately i phoned them again before i set off.
I tried burning one after partially drying it out, it seems to be exploding!
Im stuck with them as i will be moving to the next waterpoint asap, lol.
If you use an oven to bake pop a few in it at the same time. I sometimes do it.
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7 minutes ago, LadyG said:
He tied up at the waterpoint just as i was about to go on it, ( the wind having died down,), i could not be bothered faffing about any more, so just sailed past him.
''Casting off''. You were knitting instead of seeing to the water?😃
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Boats don't need a strong solution of antifreeze, they don't have the freezing wind blowing through them like a vehicles radiator does which can freeze before the thermostat opens. About 15 to 20 percent would be fine. And buy the concentrated kind to mix yourself with distilled water. The ready mixed stuff might have been brewed in Peckham at Nelson Mandela House with tap water. Use distilled or deiron ized water in the system.
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5 minutes ago, David Mack said:
I wonder how the holes in the meccano would affect a @bizzard-built rudder?
🙂
Block em up with nuts and bolts. ☺️
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Emerging from top of a lock gates with lots of debris collected there you need to get speed up in the lock and coast through in neutral until clear of it using the rudder for some way often, and weed and debris elswhere too especially on rivers with a current running, unless you want a busted prop, dislodged rudder or lots of weed box visits to clear the prop unless you like all that then power through it all. I'll stick with my large plate rudder.
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11 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:
We went from Ipswich to London, under Tower Bridge, winded in the Pool and then back under the bridge to moor moor. then back to Ipswich on a coach
Sounds nice. Never heard of moor moor,
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The Waverley was moored on the Thames embankment for a while. In the early 1980's I nearly went on a cruise on it with Hastings Lil. It was doing round the coast cruises. We waited on Hastings pier for it but because of a strong swell in the channel it couldn't get alongside, bumped the pier a couple of times then steamed away. We went to the pub instead. ,
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Just now, Tony Brooks said:
And a report from the garage I use said that the wrong oil makes the blocking worse and it has cost customers new engines.
It seems to be more of a problem in America probably cos they travel longer distances. Yes the 1 litre 3 cyl engine is the biggest problem. An engine of about 80hp boosted to about 120hp with a turbo. Fitted in quite big cars. Focus, Ecosport ect. Those little engines must be quite heavily stressed.
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The latest Ford Ecoboost engines now in various Fraud models have wet timing and oil pump drive belts ''RUNNING IN OIL!!!!. and some diesels too. The problem is wear fibre gunge from belts blocking the oil pump filter. Chains would be much much better running in oil but more expensive of course. I've recommended to a couple of folk with these engines to change there oil and filters every 3,000 mile
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Essex Motor Factors of Bishops Stortford stock the range of Morris oils. I use them in boats and in my car. Very good service. = Essex Motor Factors 01279 653211.
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EP140 is very thick known as Castrol High press use to be used in prewar car differentials. Smells of almonds. EP80-90 smells of cats pee.
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2 minutes ago, beerbeerbeerbeerbeer said:
dunno it’s always too bright I have to have me eyes shut
Reminds me of an old friend of mine that uses to stand in front of a mirror with his eyes closed trying to see what he looked like when asleep.
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13 minutes ago, beerbeerbeerbeerbeer said:
I’m, Red green brown colour blind,
the green of a navigation light to me appears towards white as does the green of a traffic light,
so I easily see the difference between the red and green,
Im more likely to get the green and white lights mixed,
now if you took a single poppy and placed it on a nicely kept lawn I’d not be able to find it,
Red apples in trees is another loss,
but green apples in trees I see because I see the different greens
and looking up at the stars is a loss on me, colour wise,
it’s all very odd but really very interesting,
What does white appear as then?
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Mix red and green makes brown, so red and green nav lights too close together a long distance away look brownish.
Thetford C2 cassette - manual flush not working.
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
That's what I do with my 25 year old 365, About 1/4 pint in a cup does mine. I got fed up with fixing it.