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Posts posted by bizzard

  1. Usually thrust plummer blocks have four bolts, two each side holding them down. They are also normaly fatter to contain often twin Timken taper roller bearings conically facing each other to take thrust in either direction. With grub screws through into indents in the shaft.

    I used to get them from BRT Bearings. Dodge Fenner type.

  2. 18 minutes ago, MtB said:

    , but


    Yes. When I did gas work for New Boat Company when they were based at Reading, every brand new Liverpool Boat supplied would come back a week later with a snagging list as long as yer arm. Guaranteed! 


    Although like with new houses, I also got the impression that the same new boat given to two different customers, would have generated two different snagging lists. 

    About 15 years ago I worked on a widebeam Liverpool boat that came from New boat Co in Reading. It failed t's first BSS on gas leaks. Connections to it's bubble tester leaking, but much more serious was a bad gas leak on it's stand alone cooking oven. A parallel threaded adapter bush was screwed into the gas inlet with no seal, washer, tape or sealant on it whatsoever, leaking big time. Beats me the boat never blew up.

  3. On 28/07/2022 at 16:23, fladda said:

    Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. I phoned Vibracoustics this morning in Leicester, and they were going to email me back if they located anything suitable. We discussed making a new coupling but the Vibracoustics chap reckoned this would be serious ££££ (i.e. thousands !), as they'd probably have to make new jigs etc. Although their office is in Leicester (near Syston) their manufacturing facility is down south.


    In the meantime I've ordered and received a Ford Granada 'doughnut' type vehicle coupling, as recommended on these forums several times by user 'bizzard' (thanks for all your previous information btw). Ordered a genuine QH vehicle part (part number QL9000).



    This Ford Granada transmission coupling has 6 bolt holes with three forming a fixing 'triangle' on each side. Distance between the bolt centres along base of the fixing 'triangle' is a thebout 85mm, which is close to the 83mm I measured on the drive boss on the boat. Not an ideal solution, as the drive to the propeller is going to be transmitted to the doughnut coupling through the fixing bolts and multiple washers, rather than via the original Metalastik coupling steel plates. But the transmission will certainly have a weak spot if the propeller cannot turn...


    In the meantime I'm also getting a steel coupling machined to the dimensions of the failed Metalastik coupling, to use as an emergency if the QL9000 coupling ever fails. I'll probably also get a spare QL9000 as they're relatively cheap and readily available (by marine standards).


    This all said, the best solution would be to find another Metalastik 21/642/2 drive coupling... Or get one made by Robush... 



    I doubt the QL9000 will ever fail as long as you don't let it get any oil or grease on it. I've fitted a few including my own years ago and all still going strong.

  4. Heating the inner track to expand it with Oxy you only heat fast up and down on one side about 1/2'' width. Heating all around it will heat the stock too much and it still probably will not budge. Propane and Butane too slow and not hot enough.

    2 minutes ago, blackrose said:

    To be honest even with the correct rudder arrangement, the idea of being able to remove the rudder with the boat in the water sounds like it's almost as much hassle as having to get the boat out of the water. I guess the big advantage is that even though it's a struggle it can be done without having to move a non-steering boat. 

    Have you always kept the top bearing greased and is it firm with no side wobble.

    2 minutes ago, bizzard said:

    Heating the inner track to expand it with Oxy you only heat fast up and down on one side about 1/2'' width. Heating all around it will heat the stock too much and it still probably will not budge. Propane and Butane too slow and not hot enough.

    Have you always kept the top bearing greased and is it firm with no side wobble.

    You never know it might slide out of that bearing easily, rare but worth a try.

  5. 9 minutes ago, blackrose said:


    A grub screw doesn't sound like it would stop the rudder lifting out of the cup if it hit something. But anyway, how would you intentionally lift the rudder out? It sounds like it's quite an operation? Would you have to loosen the bearing grub screw first for example, or just unbolt the bearing from the deck? 



    If you've never ever removed the rudder stock, grub screw or not it will almost certainly be seazed on. You can unbolt the bearing to lift the whole lot up a bit until the rudder hits the uxter plate. Those bearings are not really marine bearings for rudders. Ball and roller bearing units are meant to revolve around and around completely, not like a trunion only half way or so and back. If the bearing is knackered needing renewal and the inner track is seazed on and you've unbolted and lifted the stock up an angle grinder with metal cutting disc to cut through one side of the track which will then pull up and and off easily.  I find a puller and oxy-acetelene quicker.

  6. 56 minutes ago, blackrose said:

    With this arrangement what prevents the rudder coming out of the skeg cup if the rudder hits something? It has to lift out of the cup easily to remove the rudder so there needs to be plenty of room between the rudder and uxter plate. 




    I was thinking that if I cut off most of the protruding rudder stock tube under my uxter plate I could get a swan neck/rudder stock taper made at a later time.


    The downside of this design seems to be that the rudder can easily become dislocated from the skeg, or is that not the case? 


    The top ball race would stop the stock lifting off the skeg cup as the inner bearing track is normally grub screwed to the stock. Even if it isn't the inner bearing track is usually jambed on the stock needing heat, oxy-acetylene and a puller to yank them up anf off. I had to do this on two boats recently. Of course if the top bearing ball race is knackered and corroded away, as many are after years of use the stock would probably just heave up through it.

  7. 6 minutes ago, Ronaldo47 said:

    Funnily enough, at lunchtime today we got round to talking about TV programmes that wouldn't be made today, like "Billy Bunter" , featuring a rather over-weight public schoolboy  (with a minor character pupil from a wealthy Indian family whose catchphrase was "The xxxxx is terrific", where xxxxx was whatever they were talking about), and "Whacko", featuring Jimmy Edwards as a bewhiskered, cane-wielding public school headmaster. 


  8. 16 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

    I've seen ball lightning over a house and the ball went slowly down the chimney pot, no bang and the house didn't seem to suffer any damage. A friend of mine who was a senior BA training captain told me once that he had ball lightning appear in the cockpit whilst flying. The plasma ball floated around for about 15 seconds then disappeared, no damage was caused.

    Is that not St Elmo's Fire. perhaps different from Ball lightening.

  9. 14 minutes ago, LadyG said:

    It is but it seems perfect. There is no sign of staining on the top of the housing. The engineer chap and myself have inspected it, seems normal. I'll check the measurements against a brand new one, was there something about plunging in to boiling water?

    Plunging into boiling water is checking thermostats open not a cap.

  10. I didn't google it like IanD probably did.  I've been up to the top viewing platform of the Telecom tower twice. Incredible view. The lifts are a bit frightening especially coming down, feels like it just drops with wind rushing past and you go all lightweight almost of your feet. It's closed to the pubic now.

  11. 15 minutes ago, MtB said:



    Ah now THAT is one of my minor life ambitions, to see a fireball, or ball lightning. 


    I am totally unconvinced it exists except in the imagination of us human beans. Has anyone here seen it for real? 



    I've seen two. From my bedroom window and from my classroom window at school.' they whirl about and burst with a huge bang. I also used to sail a Fireball dinghy.

  12. 14 minutes ago, LadyG said:

    Yes indeed, it's manifold cum header, I knew there would be a specific name, but felt a description would be better !

    Does it actually need topped up every day, or is it just that I have never paid any attention previously, and this is the correct level. I suppose I could run the engine for a few more hours and see if level keeps dropping. The boat engineer did bleed it, and seemed to think it was not OK. He will be back next week, and I hope he can come back and sort a few things. He's recommended and seems a regular guy.

    I suggest removing the filler cap from the header, fill to about half, start the engine, run up to normal temp. Keep blipping the throttle whilst watching the coolant reaction in the header filler, if air is trapped it will bubble up and bounce up and down and disperse the bubbles, keep topping up if that happens. Sniff for any engine exhaust fumes emitting from the header filler, keep alert though in case it errupts in your face. If air bubbles continue errupting for a long time there's something wrong. If any bubbles cease, top up to your usual level and replace the filler cap.

    • Greenie 1
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  13. Reading the Beezer comic in the 1950's. The back cover page had unusual happenings on it. One was an instance of a lady that opened her back and front doors during thunder storms, to let any lightening escape she thought. Well a lightening ball entered her back door following the draught to the front door, setting the house on fire on the way, flew out into the street, hit a fire alarm standard, smashed the glass and alerted the fire brigade, all by itself. That was clever of it.

    • Greenie 1
  14. Years ago my uncle left his gas fag lighter on the passengers seat of his car, in the hot sun. It exploded into fragments with the extra internal pressure due to the heat, no fire, it just burst. During heatwaves I suggest that folk remove any aerosols, like de-icers from there cars, during the summer and store them in a cool place.

  15. 10 minutes ago, Fender151 said:

    Hi Tracey, I have contacted these folks, very knowledgeable and helpful. They have offered me two alternators A: 70amp B: 90amp, only about £20 difference between the two. My current alternator is a 80 amp,  it is charging 1 * 12v 110 amp starter battery, no split charger,  occasionally the engine labours for a few minutes when setting off if I have the Sterling inverter/charger on,  in your opinion, is it worth going for the 90amp?


    I'd stick with the 80 or 70 amp if your only charging one battery, less strain on the drive belt.

    • Greenie 1
  16. 13 minutes ago, Arthur Marshall said:

    Anyone know how much gearbox oil I need for an SR 2, for the gearbox and rhe reverse gear bit? I can't find the capacity in the manual.

    I think I used Halfords EP 80w/90 GL4 last time. 1/2 pint.

    LH150 gearbox 2pints. Reduction gear 1/2 pint.. That gear oil is ok.

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