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bizzard

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Posts posted by bizzard

  1. Personally I'd use the correct size stuff, seen, dealt with so much trouble in the past with wrong size packing, jammed shafts, burn't out gearboxes. Graphite packing is really more ideal for steam engine cylinder-steam chest ect glands which are difficult to lubricate even with the specially thick steam oil used.

  2. A good weapon for this kind of thing is one of those little 12v air compressors for blowing up car tyres, one that plugs into a fag lighter socket. Apart from blowing up tyres they're very useful for blowing out things, gas lines, fuel lines, blowing crumbs of your keyboard. They usually come with a couple of different nozzles for blowing up air beds, dinghies, dolls ect.  Costs range form about £15.

  3. 31 minutes ago, ThePiglet said:

    Ah, OK, cheers.
    The manuals for the SR2 say 5.4L or 9.5 pints too, so I'll adjust the dipstick to centre on that volume.
    I'll try to get the paint off the plate to confirm the model.

    You have an oil filter ''industrial engine'' accounts for the extra 1/2 pt of oil.  To remark the dipstick, just a couple of strokes with a Junior hacksaw.

  4. 2 hours ago, ThePiglet said:

    Hi All,

     

    I've just bought a new trencher which came with the Lister pictured below. The plate has been painted over, but I think it is an ST2.

    The oil was dark, but in the middle of the dipstick, and I ran it for an hour or so the other day when it started to lose power. I put it to idle and it stalled. It's aircooled, but there was a bubbling noise coming from the crank case 😐

    I've drained the oil from it and got about 10 litres. It seems thin, so I'm suspecting it has been diluted with diesel from the internal pipes somewhere. That's OK, I'll find that, but my concern is the dipstick was still reading in the middle of the dipstick. I've put 5L in (didn't have a jug to measure the 400ml extra yet) and nothing is showing yet at all.

    Is 9.5 pints (5.4L) correct for this engine, and if it is, given the dipstick is a bit rudimentry, should I just 're-calibrate' the dip-stick?

     

    Oil also seems to be leaking out of the rocker covers, maybe time for new gaskets.

     

     

     

     

     

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    ,

    It isn't a ST2, almost certainly SR2.  And it should only hold about 9 pints of oil about half of what you say. Sounds like your have a fuel leak on the i njection system dropping into the crankcase and raising the level, hence overheating and the bubbling noise.

  5. 12 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

     

    I found that you can get silver solders in different melting points now and they come flux coated. For this job I would choose a lower melting point one. I think without looking it up I saw a 400C one.

    Yes, when I consructed model loco boilers I used Easyflow 1 2 and 3. The reason was as each stage of the construction comenced one didn't want to go and melt a previous operation. We'd start with the boilers foundation ring, hard brazed with Sifbronze and work up from that finishing off with the lowest melting silver solder for things like cab boiler, chimney, dome regulator, blast pipe fittings, all so one doesn't melt what went before.    Brazing needs a bit more of a technique than soldering, a bit like welding really.

  6. Have you tried Tony Brooks suggestion with the jump lead directly to the starter motor solenoid. You can also clamp onto the big terminal nut on the starter with the lead from the pos side of the battery. This should make the starter motor spin up but not engage its pinion with the engines ring gear. If it does then do the Tony Brooks thing. Careful of touching the engine mass or starter body with the lead or big sparks will happen.

  7. There is a certain procedure for bunging goo into an engines cooling system. the main point is to remove the thermostat first or it's very likely to get goo'd up and jamb. If there's been and external coolant leak on the engine dribbling from somewhere the antifreeze content baked on the engine externals should stink of curry when the engine is hot. When I opened a cars bonnets in the garage and smelt curry I always knew there was or had been a leak.

  8. 1 hour ago, Bee said:

    Steam will vanish very quickly especially in hot dry weather like this. White smoke will linger. If the engine is trying to run away stuffing a rag in the air intake should stop it eventually or a CO2 extinguisher. 

    But steam is invisible anyway. :)

  9. Years ago a friend of mine who worked at the GPO telephones research place in Hendon told me that the difference between using tap water and distilled water in they're huge battery banks was so tiny on battery life that distilled water wasn't worth bothering with.  I collect rain water at night and filter it through an old T shirt for batteries, seems to be fine, I only collect it when the wind blows from the north, north west or north east, never from any southerly direction which would be seriousely contaminated with continental crap and polution and frogs, been doing it for years.

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