by'eck

I didn't say that the fuse wasn't to protect the cable as well, more that it's value should be chosen to protect the equipment. By default then the cable will also be well protected assuming an adequate gauge has been employed. Your linked document highlights the importance of correct cable choice. There are many examples where a manufacturer chooses to recommend an external user provided fuse in the fitting instructions. In other cases it's included in the fitting kit but still external to allow easy replacement. I would be amazed if you are not aware of this already. If the manufacturer has chosen to include and internal fuse then fine the cable can be fused to protect it. Ditto if the cable is feeding a distribution network with a range of equipment. Furthermore I provided clear examples where my comments regarding fusing to protect equipment were upheld with particular reference to the topic, but which you seem to have ignored.

If at all possible I would aim to reduce the cable run from battery to inverter. A 12 metre return run is really too long assuming you were quoting distance between. I would also do the job properly and source a singe run of the correct gauge cable for each leg. You can see yourself the issues that can arise otherwise - think simple but robust with heavy current cabling. Please also ignore comments that the fuse is only there to protect the cable. It most certainly isn't. Thinking should be to choose fuse to protect equipment then cable size and connections to minimise volt drop for given cable run at max load. A 400 amp fuse should be ok in your case. I can qualify above when a 500 amp fuse blew feeding an accidentally overloaded 3500 watt inverter. The 70mm2 cables didn't get remotely warm but the inverter did Without doubt it saved my Combi which is still working fine three years later. Ditto 600 amp fuse on my fouled bowthruster although it had thermal overload protection as well.

Unless you are intending to only use a tiny inverter such as those offered for car cigar lighter sockets powering just one device (say max 120 watts) then it needs to be wired directly to batteries via suitable fuse and maybe isolator. In any case stay well away from from cigar lighter sockets, they are rubbish and in most cases not fit for purpose. If the mains output is going to feed your existing AC disribution system then consideration needs to be given to RCD trips, neutral/earth bond and changeover switch from shore mains power.

When you moved the ammeters, did you extend with too thinner cable, since it sounds like this may be the issue? As heavy cables are mentioned I would guess the ammeter shunt is part of the display instrument. If so all the measured current is passing through these cables including all 12 volt services. The reason the cable gets hot with engine running would likely be due to the alternators output current passing through the meter to charge batteries. If so then removing meter and shorting cables will not solve the issue as you have found. I suggest you look into the possibility of inadequate cable thickness as a starting point.

Check out this site and take your pick. A few Ruston singles although not too large.

What about a Gardner 1L2. The final versions were developing around 16bhp @ 1600 rpm, adequate for most narrowboats.

I'll see your sigh and raise it

I thought most modern multi-stage chargers automatically adjusted absorb mode period based on time in initial constant current mode. Something like 10 x that value for absorb mode if my memory serves, with a fixed minimum. This takes into account battery SOC when charging starts. Going back nearly twenty years the absorb mode period was typically manually adjustable over a limited range to allow charging of a range of battery capacities.

Numax 20 amp smart charger actually 14.7 volts in absorb mode.

If there isn't a spare blade on the ignition switch piggy back lucar blade connectors can be used, which provide a duplicate blade whilst allowing connection to existing one.

When I visited two years ago the first section of canal adjacent to the station was solid with moored boats both sides. Most recently (three weeks ago) the situation has changed dramatically for the better. Arriving around 5pm I had no trouble finding space with mooring rings opposite the boat yard and maybe 150 yards before the lock onto the Thames.

With only a 650 watt generator I would be more concerned about how powerful a charger it can run, which may be little more than 20 amp taking into account start up current. It may even be that the generators rating is not continuous either. Suggest sticking with a conventional multi-stage charger set to the highest absorb charge setting of around 14.8 volts assuming lead/acid batteries.

The reason it's bleeping in ECO mode is because the AC load whilst high enough to trigger the inverter to ON, is not enough to hold it in this mode. Consequently it's turning on then off every second or so with associated bleep from inverter itself or maybe the device it's powering. Some of the more sophisticated models have differing load values for on and off to stop this cycling in power saving modes.

It certainly is in the USA where both 120 and 240 volt systems exist in households. It appears you have similar centre tapped earth system although this may be unique to the marina. If your IT is wired correctly the distributed supply on board will be no different. DP switch will work correctly to fully isolate supply. ETA: I suspect you correctly measured 230 volts across nominal live and neutral, but only 115 volts between each leg and earth. The input error lights are entirely to be expected with such a supply.

Yes I can understand your frustration at some of the replies you have received. My opinion FWIW is that there is absolutely no excuse for the boat you mention following so close, attempting to draw alongside you on a bend, shout abuse, and open paddles prematurely without being asked. Having said that and having a heavy 60 ft, 34" draught boat, I often find myself managing less than 3 mph on many of the shallower canals including the section you mention. Although I try to maintain at least 3 mph, it often becomes physically impossible for me to go faster despite using more power, which only serves to slow me. I am very surprised therefore (and maybe frustrated) on the rare occasions I do get stuck gehind a slower boat. In such cases I politely make my presence known, and often when able the boat in front pulls over. I cruise with a handheld GPS so am always aware of exact speed I'm making. In order to catch a boat they would probably need to be doing less than 2.5 mph on the straight sections though.

Given that the water in your typically modest sized calorifier will fall in temperature during the course of a shower, would suggest a thermostatic mixer is the way to go. Once set at a comfortable temperature it will maintain that as calorifier temp lowers.

240 volt AC production is more efficient than the equivalent power from a 12 or 24 vot DC system. However if you already have a large 12 or 24 volt DC output alternator and matching large pure sinewave inverter, it may be more cost effective to stick with those. The TravelPower or similar Dynawatt provide a relatively large amount (3-4 kW) of engine driven AC power directy to your mains distribution system using a compact alternator, but the outlay is quite high. Sticking to an engine driven DC system which you probably already have, has the advantage of allowing any shortfall in DC current needed to drive your inverter to be provided by the batteries. It also means that high power mains devices don't require the engine necessarily running well above idle as the TravelPower might, and then there is the afore mentioned cost saving. I went for the DC option with two alternators and a 3200 watt PSW Combi. Typically I run the washing machine when tackling a flight of locks, where the engine is at close to idle for much of the time. The alternators comfortably keep up with demand leaving the battery bank still fully charged at the end of a cycle.

I don't think you can complain if a hire company refuses you during winter. But if you can hire one long term to CC during the winter go for it, but with careful forward planning on above mentioned limitations.

I would argue as others, that only the engine starter and ignition related engine ancillaries should be run from the starter battery. Hanging numerous other devices from the ignition switch only complicates matters even if they are only feeding relays. Just look at the number of issues folk have with alternator excitation. Definately a case for KISS in this area. Regarding leaving tunnel or nav lights on accidentally, a tell tale light at switch should alleviate this.

Bullshit. It should T into the pump inlet with skin tank return, as I suspect it already does. Note that this bypass is usually the point where a calorifier coil is inserted I.e. thermostat to coil inlet then coil outlet to pump inlet

No single answer to this as there are too many bridge variations. Tying rope to bridge that can be picked up as you pass through to close bridge is one answer. Another is tying boat itself to bridge. Whatever you use, fully exhaust the possibility of tying to the operating side of the bridge (before and after) no matter what hedges/bushes/walls you have to climb over. ETA: ironically the bridge featured in the video above now has duplicate controls on towpath side.

How is the battery charged? My Mastervolt Whisper 6000 genny didn't have any charge facility. After use the battery which was shared with the main engine, was turned off so definately no power to the control panel which didn't seem to upset it. Maybe your model is newer but you haven't mentioned what it is.

Worked for me with my then new partner Val. I deliberately did a backward somersault into the water from my inflatable and yelled for her to take the outboards tiller. It was only a 3.3hp Mariner and the location was English Harbour Antigua, so the consequences were not too extreme