by'eck

The new Sterling Combi's are excellent value for money and now include a charger only mode. I doubt if the auto inverter power on mode will work any better with a microwave though. The standing current draw when microwave not being used is enough to turn it on but it then cycles off/on at a two second interval. I never use this mode, just turning it fully on when needed.

Have a look here. The higher powered LED's typically have a heat sink attached. Sites specialising in boat lighting won't be much help.

The (small) advantage of having it left on in a marina whilst in attendance, is that a short term power outage or trip allows the batteries to continue supplying AC to any such devices that may need to be left running. A fridge or washing machine for example. Clearly not a good setting if the boat is unattended though, as continued lack of shore power will leave the inverter running, with flat batteries to follow. This is why there's a charger only setting.

I think it's safe to assume it will be dead until the AC input that drives it is available. Of course devices that use mechanical (DIP switch) rather than software controlled switching could be set up in advance of power-up, but don't think this applies to your charger.

Not sure what you mean by standby power. Like most battery chargers the Sterling unit requires an AC input, this can be from shore power or generator as long as the latter is powerful enough to handle the start-up current. The manual mentions a standby charge mode, but this just provides a lower float voltage to the batteries when they are left unattended fully charged for long periods.

According to Sterling manual 6mm2 is good for up to 2 metre cable run even with their 30 amp charger. Personally I would have used at least 10mm2 with fuse.

If you have a full size log periodic and are still getting poor reception, ensure the polarization (orientation of the aerial elements) is correct. Many remote areas relying on small RBR transmitters use vertical polarization to avoid interference from others. A quick check of local home aerials will reveal.

Had the first BSS check on my four year old boat six weeks ago, parting with £160 for first certificate issue and examination itself. Four minor issues were corrected the following week and the local examiner popped over to satisfy himself the following day, agreeing that the certificate would be registered online and a copy emailed to me. That was nearly a month ago and have still received nothing despite personal, phone and email reminders. Before sending the latest email I phoned C&RT who quickly confirmed the boats certificate was registered on the BSS database but that it needed to be copied across to their system (wasn't aware of this but apparently you have to tell them one has been issued). I would just like to know if I need a personal copy and indeed if I should expect one.

Bearing in mind that the higher absorb voltage will only be held for a limited time before the charger drops to the lower float voltage (or you switch off genny), I would suggest that a higher voltage will be fine, whilst giving better use of generator running time. I've been using 14.8 volts with sealed lead calcium batteries for many years without issue. Checked out the last set of cheapo ones fitted by builder, and there was plenty of electrolyte left on all cells after four years.

This is where basic theoretical caculations go out of the window - too many variables. A Honda EU20i or equivalent should be fine for a 60amp charger though - say a genny with minimum 1500 watts continuous rating.

Seems to pop up most late summers in that area. Not an issue unless you mistake it for turf

Take it on a river, open the throttle.

Watch out for gushers from leaky lock walls when heading west and descending flight of four from summit, especially if you have trad engine room doors open. Beware Honey Street taken over by CM'ers. They don't even like you eating in the pub if you take up their seating.

And to add to above the shore earth should be connected to the hull via a galvanic isolator not directly. Use of an isolating transformer is another way of achieving galvanic protection at greater cost and installation.

A couple of images here to illustrate what has been mentioned above. I appreciate your switch may not be the Blue Sea one illustrated though.

Be very aware of current through Reading when going both up and downstream even in otherwise benign conditions, hence traffic lights. Side currents can be an issue on lock landings in town and a little beyond then you can start to enjoy. Be aware that anywhere the Kennet river rejoins the canal there could be strong cross currents. Woolhampton for example.

Had a surprisingly similar scary moment last year descending the manned triple staircase at Newlay approaching Leeds. I was single handing in my trad 60 ft nb so remained on board at the helm. Engine room doors were open both sides as it was mid summer. A mixture of regular and volunteer staff were present totalling six I believe. I had just passed a single boat ascending and was now in the slightly overfilled middle chamber at a slight angle to allow gates to be shut behind given boat length. Two of the volunteers were told to raise the lower paddles and my boat started to descend. Very shortly afterwards I noticed the boat taking on an unusual attitude. After that things happened very quickly. I yelled then screemed for paddles to be closed. Took a few seconds for staff to realise the issue and take action. I then rushed into engine 'ole to close port side doors as that was where water was going to enter as stern dropped and boat heeled. Took a few attempts as doors were swinging open given the angle, but remember seeing water just four inches from bottom of door aperture! I then returned to stern to find situation under control with bottom paddles now closed and top ones being opened to restore level. It was explained that my main stbd bow strake had caught on the right angle concrete edge of chamber recess for bottom gates. I believe it unlikely this would have happened if chamber hadn't been overfilled. After pulse rate had dropped a little, I apologised for my shouting and thanked staff. The guy in charge told me I was entirely justified. Decided not to report incident as I felt lessons had been learnt by all in attendance.

The poly tubing has some limited flex yes, but otherwise fitting was almost exactly as you describe, having made sure both olives covered the ends of the tubing. I was surprised and obviously pleased how well the compression fittings worked.

Compression fittings - see earlier in the thread.

Final incarnation which has received BSS examiner approval. 30mm ID copper tube was split along its length with Dremel cutter to provide 180° protection to sight glass.

Yes tried to get more info on the shunt if it is such. Warwick Organs Ltd. was a valid although now defunct company - trail ended there. I admit the thick wires to instrument display did initially throw me off track, but they were not thick enough to avoid overheating. I don't believe the OP has advised how thick though, so maybe a red herring.

Just come back to this thread following the above extra advice from the OP. The item described sounds a lot like an external shunt to me especially given the wiring from it to display instrument. If the display developed a short this in turn would effectively short out the remote shunt with a significant amount of current flowing through the monitoring wires, explaining them overheating when carrying a substantial alternator charge current. When the OP deliberately joined these wires together in order to bypass instrument, they continued to overheat as one would expect. What is not explained is why he was forced to do this in order to maintain a 12 volt distributed supply. Almost sounds as though the shunt itself has gone open circuit however unlikely. Worth checking for high resistance on the main shunt cables maybe which should be a lot thicker than those going to instrument, if the OP could confirm they exist.

You are comparing chalk with cheese but with possibly a lethal outcome - DC requires only two connections positive and negative, 240v AC mains three, live, neutral and protective earth. If at all possible use dedicated low voltage DC sockets for your 12 volt distribution. For external use suggest these waterproof non-reversible plug/sockets. For internal the Hella/DIN range are far superior to the awful although sadly common cigar lighter sockets which are hardly fit for purpose. See Alan 's post above! The sockets are available as panel or flush side mount. Typical rating 10 amps. Both are available at most chandlers or from mail order marine suppliers. The three round pin connectors I think you were referring to were designed to supply household mains table lights etc. Their rating was 240v 2 amp I believe. Whilst they do the job for DC distribution there is an unused pin and no convention as to which is positive or negative - best stay away IMHO.

Ditto

To sum up I will say that in general most DC equipment isn't fused internally. Like it or not, but I accept this on two points - it keeps the price down - it allows easy accessible external fusing without the complexity of effective double fusing. Finally another example where equipment fusing saved me a lot of money. My Sealand Vacuflush pump with very low mechanical gearing temporarily stalled (you can guess why ) although its normal current draw was only 8 amps it tripped the 16 amp dedicated panel breaker and consequently lived for another day. A new motor was listed at well over £100! I've already admitted there are situations where only the cable fusing needs to be considered, when there is further dedicated fusing further down the line, but please don't argue against the hard facts I've provided. FWIW in over 20 years of cruising covering nearly 60,000 nm I've never had a cable burn out. I have witnessed a catastrophic melt down on a near brand new £750,000 Oyster yacht though, so am most certainly aware of the importance of cable fusing allied to adequate gauge for the task.