Richard10002

It's a Black and Decker from B & Q, which came with 5 x 3.5mm discs, and I bought a couple of 1mm metal cutting discs as well. The discs are 115mm, which seems to be about 4.1/2" . Seems quite chunky and solid.

If you read the OP correctly, I dont think he is buying the boat...... merely "residing" on it

Thanks for all the advice. In the end I bought a proper sized hacksaw and a £35 angle grinder. Hacksaw worked a treat, and I now have a grinder for that job that I dont even know exists yet

I recently bought and fitted a Lagun pivoting table mount which, amongst other things, can be raised and lowered. It works great, but I want to be able to lower it by a further 2 inches, which requires cutting 2 inches off the bottom of the leg. The leg is effectively a box section of quite thick aluminium which I was hoping could be cut with my Dremel. Given time, I could probably do it, but it wasnt going to look neat, and would take forever. I've also tried a small hacksaw, which would take longer than forever I'm wondering what other ways people would use to do the job. This is the leg that needs cutting: https://shop.chastheboat.co.uk/products/spare-leg-for-lagun-frame-32109

Alan? Being awkward? You must be mistaken???

Everything you have said has intimated that it will be a problem for the owner if the craft isnt marked as it should be. Yet the only problem you have been able to quote was for the builder, after a complaint by the owner. You really seem to enjoy worrying and frightening people, dont you?

Given that posts aren't numbered, do you mean the fifth post in the thread? It was posted by the OP on Sunday..... If not, which one do you mean?

I'm delighted with my Victron Phoenix 1600W, (2000VA), "Smart" inverter. Way better than the inverter bit of the Sterling inverter charger that it replaced. https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/victron-energy-phoenix-pure-sine-wave-inverter-12v-2000w-smart.html

I've got a Garry Gorton boat. It has a heart in the rudder, and hearts at the bottom of the gas locker.

But he has already said that the problem with that is that he has no way of knowing if he's connected the cooker properly!

Mine retains the custom setting until I do something to change it. I wonder if it could be something to do with the default U.S. safety rules compliance. I cant really remember, but I had to change mine to not comply, in order for it to do what I wanted.. When it starts up it has PS in the left hand display, which I think indicates the fact that I have made the change. Hopefully the above will make sense when you read the relevant bit of the manual

The Pro Charge Ultra has a custom setting, so you can set absorption and float at whatever you like. With mine, on lithiums, using a genny, I set them both the same at 14.4V. I get 60A all the time, unless I'm charging to 100%, when it falls to 20A, (my choice), in the last hour or so.

I wonder if the quoted 0.6A is a type of standby current? Having said that, I cant see mention of a standby facility.

IIRC, a reef knot is for joining two pieces of rope of equal thickness, and a sheet bend two pieces of unequal thickness. I have been sailing and canal boating for the best part of 50 years, and I probably only know 6 or 7 knots, and one of them always suits the situation. I would add a sheet bend and a bowline to your armoury. A bowline has more uses that I can imagine.... you will know when it suits.

Looks to me like you're getting the same as everyone else, but you have slimmed down the number of forums that you get stuff from?

Aha! so it's OK to be where it is, but it should be in a consumer unit type thing?