JohnO

Matty, http://www.three.co.uk/Store/SIM/Plans_for_phones#?contract=All&data=All-you-can-eat&minutes=&type=alltype i got this one, all about the minutes you use. http://www.three.co.uk/Store/SIM/SIM-size-select?step=confirmplan&planid=1400624190965& why you going from "fone"sim to data sim. 3 allow 30GB tethering now on fone sim. No need for extra kit. ?

Mike, I have some 15 year old Gaffa it is beginning to lose its tack. Pack your stash away well, don’t have any pressure / weight on the rolls. "Gaffa tape for people who can’t fix stuff proper". Air con installers and carpet fitters are the legitimate users, everyone else is a bodging. Gaffa tape will break down over time with UV exposure, Adheres to itself better than anything especially face to face, pressure and warmth are your friends in use. Ticker Tape and Advance are my two of my personal favourites, different makes suit certain jobs. The funniest use of Gaffa, I worked in a band as a sound engineer, we were the support act on a UK tour and on the final night the road crew placed long lengths of gaffa face up all the way across the stage. Band walks on in darkness, when the lights went up how we laughed. Well i did till the band fired up to find the PA crew had totally repatched my channels so bass drum was now vocal channel, vocal now hi-hat etc.

Graces Guide says, 1931 The LW engine was introduced, designed for road transport applications. 1932 The L2 engine was introduced, designed for stationary and marine use as it is a heavy engine. but also says Introduced in 1929. 1L2 single cylinder engine develops 11 bhp at 1100 rpm. 4L2 (50 bhp at 1,300 rpm). Range eventually covered from one to six cylinders. L Cast Iron block LW Alloy, but i believe some were CI

I suggested Chop may have cooling issues due to the overplate. The problem is the small gap there wiil be between the two plates. Same principle in reverse as the air gap required between fireboard and any combustible material on a stove installation, plus 5 / 6mm plate. I would like to see pictures of these skin tanks as I struggle to see how on a correctly sized tank a suitable socket could be welded in place. I have only encountered fitting on the large faces. Peter, fitting on the top edge and 6” in from the side intrigues me to the baffle arrangements. Chop has two tanks i think because on a rear install a skin tank would go though the rear bulkhead. I have some options for Chop but he would not like them, I think he is off trialling to see what he has. These engines appear to run cool, the internal bore is small the flow is weak and tepid. With my first Sabb, worrying I asked Jonathan if the flow and temp of the the water was correct, especially as it was cut water cooled with a plastic colander as a strainer in the mudbox and it looked like a recent install in the boat, i did not know if it had seen the sea, he said something like, well does the engine feel hot, no i say, he just looked at me. I made the mistake of taking a hose from my keel cooled system and giving it to a boater who had rubbed a serious groove in his with a spinning prop. It’s ok, i have a spare too short to fix him but still longer enough to replace mine. Wave him off into the sun set, fit spare, bled system, retire for the night. Next morning chugging away just over tickover eating breakfast, engine gets a bit lumpy, revs die a bit, pop down hmm... that Sabb blue was sorta Sabb brown. The replacement hose which seemed robust, no idea how i came about it, i knew not about such things as steel reinforcement, collapsed once warm and the water pump just sucked it flat. Now do I stop this hotter than a hot thing engine and wait forever for it to cool or do keep it running, moving the oil and try to dissipate the heat by manipulating the hose and return some flow, thinking risk assessment, steam, bomb, hot engine, cold water, call me reckless I squashed the hose into shape and got a flow, had some hic-ups and splutters though the header tank. Now thinking, is this really a good idea, looks like I have lost a fair amount of coolant from the header tank so will have air in the system, still holding the hose I can just touch a 5 litre water container with free hand and reach up on full stretch and top up. Another 5 litres on cabin top, release hose it collapses, I leg it grab water stuff a load in header, squat down squish hose again, juggle hoses expel more air. I was surprised how quickly the skin tank ripped the heat from the coolant. Returned engine to a normal temperature, released hose, stopped engine. Finished me breakfast and pondered where am I going to find a length of suitable hose in rural north warwickshire on a bank holiday. Happy days, five minute walk down the towpath found me CM's with spare hose and they gave me two quality ss jubilees even though I said I did not need them. On return to base I did a oil and filter change, replaced coolant and decided these engines are hardcore. Had a core plug blow out once. The engine was raw cooled at that time, just happened to look down and though the engine ‘ole to see the floor awash, topped the engine bilge filled the cabin bilge 8” deep I had no auto bilge pump. I had to make good time to reach my sisters for a mothers days celebration. Did not want to leave the boat in middle of sunny Nuneaton had no locks on any hatches, even though I had left it for weeks in Coventry basin in the same state. Cut down a broom handle to a tight fit between the core plug and hand start column, used some high temp silicone to seal, hammered home and threw some water on it to expand the wedge. Got me there and lasted months before the wedge fell out, and the plug stayed in place. So if anyone offers you a 2H check the core plug’s not held in with stove glue. I have turned a running 2H 90°, well it fell off the blocks and carried on regardless. When I had to man handle the 2G from one trolley to another it ended up on its side, that hemorrhaged oil but I can’t remember from where. The fuel return to filter housing I think is one of the features which helps give it the run in any conditions ability. On the life boat engine use, I suppose it depends on how big the life boat is. edit: too add a space man.

ah, erm... yes maybe not sure about these force thingies, just know when people mention channel sides and the parallel slab hull there are a only few things you need to know, that effect being one. We have ice now, come back and break some, see how your steerage performs then. Not sure if bowthrusters like it though. edit: IanM & IanD sounds good to me.

tis true, not a problem if you sleep on the butty. Good luck updating those details maybe easier said than done. I went into an office and gave details but nothing ever happened, hope you have a better experience.

Yes what they all say #199 to #210 ^^^ to add, bear in mind the bow sits up out water so not an "equal displacement”?. When boats were gauged they took multiple free board measurements of the the hull to gauge the total load. You say the weed hatch is 1 or 2” into the water? There is probably removable ballast around the stern anything aft of engine. You could move this ballast forward thus raising the stern and bringing down the bow, you could try getting the counter out the water at rest. You maybe surprised how much it takes to get the fore end down. I have had to design the interior of my boat around getting that “tug” style look. I prefer the way my boat performs and it “looks” right. I think that prop is not ideal and the original sounds much more like i would expect, but i know f… all about that black art. "but the lateral forces between the "vertical" channel sides and the parallel slab hull side, so "sideways" squat rather than getting sucked into the mud beneath” The forces you need to worry about are the ones which keep the boat glued to the side if steering tight on the approach to a bend, Charity Dock bend on the Coventry Canal is a good one. Steerers can’t see oncoming traffic round the bend so hung the inside, see a dozen GRP cruisers facing them, worry some more, hug a little more, then carry on straight into the boats they were trying so hard to avoid, also driving hard into the corner then backin off leaving little steerage rather than coasting into corner then driving round and out. The Oxfords, Coventry and Ashby should provide a learning curve. Canopus Built by D Harris & D Gunby - Length : 19.812 metres ( 65 feet ) - Beam : 2.083 metres ( 6 feet 10 inches ) - Draft : 0.61 metres ( 2 feet ). Metal hull N/A power of 27 HP. Registered with Canal & River Trust number 509849 as a Powered Motor Boat. ( Last updated on Wednesday 22nd May 2013 ) edit: to to on

Just wondering, does the thruster system on Canopus as “excellent" as it is, meet the installation guidelines, The weight of Canopus you quote seems excessive here is interesting method to calculate. http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=18541&p=298506 I have travelled up the dreaded Ashby on a loaded pair with steerers who effortlessly drove the channel. When we arrived, there was a lot of talk in the beer tent of bottom too close to the top, BW should be dredging more, tales of excursions into the bushes. None of these boats had a significant load on nor were towing, that was the point i realised i had a lot more to learn on the craft of piloting. Go and get Canopus with some water underneath “her/him/it” and see what you got best case scenario. Dragging ya ass has quite a negative effect. edit: add an o and sort the font.

I like Sidepower over Vetus. Consideration needs to taken in positioning the thruster tunnel tube eg. in relationship to a well deck for clearance. If the builder constructs a boat then the customer asks for a bow thruster, thats one way to end up with what you see. I think it is safe to say if you have a 200kg thruster on a narrow boat it will not be delivering that.

I think the whole fitting of bowthrusters to narrow boats is one great compromise. I believe the generally low positioning of thrusters on canal craft is to reduce the risk of floating/semi submersed objects eg. leaves, being drawn to the tube. Narrow boat bows generally are not that deep in the water. It's a hard life in a muddy ditch. edit: missed a space

I think a good way to approach your research would be to question why certain practices via away from the expected norm, especially when carried out by professionals. A bowthruster fitted with the "Vetus grill profiling" on a inland waterway vessel would have you in dry dock fishing out carrier bags and dealing with the resulting damage to thruster. Makes you wonder how they work at all with mesh over the opening. There is usually a reason. edit: dropped an e

Hi Peter, I have a spare water pump with your name on here. Sorry I only recently managed to find and sort the pile. There is more Sabb literature on my gallery.

In post #36 Chop refers to JohnO just to be clear, that be me. U.C.C. Jono prefers to be known as Jonathan Hewitt nowadays. Jonathan knows more about The Sabb than I will ever know. Concerning life boat use, this document http://www.sleeman-hawken.co.uk/files/identify-your-engine-gearbox.pdf basically, H/G - single cylinder GA - life boats, air cooled 2H - yachts, lightweight alloy block, shorter stroke, lower engine height. 2G/2J - fishing vessels, Tough, Robust, Sturdy! by’eck is totally on the money with the twin thermostat system. I have recently installed two Shire engines, really impressed, like their use of exhaust manifold. wonder if this unit is available or what would be an alternative. A get together sounds good. I will just leave these here!